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How to make beds from boards. How to make beds from boards: the three most successful options Raised beds from boards

Fencing a garden bed from boards at the dacha

The decorative framing of garden beds also has a functional purpose - in this way you can prevent plants from “spreading” throughout the entire area, as well as prevent the destruction of the bed structure itself as a result of bad weather or other external influences.

In this article we will talk about borders made of boards, consider their pros and cons, as well as the process of their installation.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden fencing

Experienced gardeners know that board beds have many advantages over traditional ones:

they are more convenient to use;
requires less time for weeding;
allow the use of areas unsuitable for farming, for example, land with rocky soil;
the soil is dense, holds its shape well, such beds do not crumble;
It is convenient to attach arcs for greenhouses along the edges, this is especially true when there is no time to protect crops from unexpected frosts;
ease of installation;
boards are a cheap material for such a structure;
promote faster ripening of crops;
with proper care, such a bed will last up to 10 years or more.

The above are the practical advantages of these structures, but do not forget about the aesthetic component - thanks to the borders, the garden or flower beds will acquire a very attractive appearance. Such beds require only double digging - when planting and also during harvesting.

There are also disadvantages, the main one of which is the fragility of the design. But it is possible to extend the service life of such a fence by using special impregnations for wood processing.

And this leads to another drawback: as a rule, impregnation products are not environmentally friendly, and wood treated with chemicals can harm the body in the process of consuming the grown crops. If possible, you only need to purchase environmentally friendly composition for protecting wood, which will be compatible with plants.

Choosing wood for boards

Boards are a fairly convenient material, they do not heat up, fit tightly to the soil and eliminate gaps between the fence and the soil, which maintains a humid microclimate inside the garden bed, which has a beneficial effect on plants.

Absolutely any types of materials are suitable for boards - from slabs to linings, from picket fences to timber. The only question is the cost you can afford:

Of the wood species for a garden bed, it is best to use durable wood that is not susceptible to rotting, for example, oak or ash boards, although this material is expensive.
Pine boards are cheap, but also short-lived. You can extend their life by covering them with a special protective coating that prevents moisture and rotting.
The ideal material is coniferous wood - cedar or larch. Cedar offers an optimal price-quality ratio, and larch resin itself protects against external influences, which has a positive effect on service life.
Acacia is a fairly hard material, so it can also be used in the construction of beds.

Optimal height and width of the fence

When choosing a suitable height, you need to consider one point - the bed can be made to any height, it will in no way harm crops. Some gardeners prefer to raise the beds to waist level, which allows them to avoid bending over while working. But here it is also important not to overdo it; if it is very wide and too high, it will be uncomfortable to carry out land work on it.

Provided that there is good soil on the territory, you can build a bed no more than 15 centimeters high. In the case where the soil is not suitable for excavation, and an embankment of more fertile soil is proposed, it must be raised to a height of 30 centimeters or higher.
For vegetables such as potatoes, the beds should be at least 40 cm.
The minimum height that warm compost beds should have is 50 centimeters. They are very convenient in summer cottages when it is not possible to exercise constant control. In case of unexpected subzero temperatures, compost will provide reliable protection of roots from freezing due to the warm microclimate in the soil.

The beds can be any length at the discretion of the owner of the site. The size is limited only by the area of the territory. However, if it is too long, it would be a good idea to provide the boards with additional support in the form of vertical pegs.

The most important parameter when designing is width. The optimal size is one that allows planting crops in two rows. But the bed should not be too wide, as it will be inconvenient to reach the middle. Thus, width about 1 meter allows you to achieve the ideal proportion.

Beds adjacent to retaining walls imply a limitation in width. It is much more convenient to plant plants in one row on such sites, since the possibility of activity on it is provided only on one side.

Installation of wooden fencing

For raised beds to a small height, it is enough to construct a border from boards and fill it with drainage and soil. But tall structures require a lot of labor. It is much more convenient to cover such an area with a small blind area, which will allow you to maintain a neat appearance.

To work you will need the following:

shovel;
prepared boards of the required length;
roulette;
level;
drill, screwdriver or screwdriver;
self-tapping screws for wooden materials;
construction sand-concrete mixture;
Master OK;
high-hardness brush;
small pebbles for drainage;
priming;
mulch from the bark of deciduous trees.

The work methodology consists of the following sequential steps:

At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove the turf in strips around the perimeter of the bed in accordance with the width required to install the board.
The boards are installed on the ground at the same level. For optimal leveling, you can place small planks that are at a lower level.
Afterwards it is checked whether the diagonals of the beds coincide. If necessary, adjustments are made to achieve the desired result.
The boards must be tacked one to one until the cracks are completely eliminated and secured with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes.
The next rows need to be secured so that they overlap the joints of the bottom row to create a strong structure.
Place geotextiles at the bottom of the bed; it will help prevent the growth of weeds and infection with harmful infections from the lower soil.
Then fill the bottom with drainage. This could be crushed stone, pebbles, various ceramic fragments or stone fragments.
Afterwards, you can begin to directly fill the bed with soil that has been cleared of weeds, or with purchased soil, leaving a distance of about 3 centimeters from the top board.
Now you can plant the plants, and fill the free space with mulch from deciduous trees, which will provide the soil with moisture and a favorable microclimate, especially during frost.
Laying a blind area is needed where there is a need to mow lawn grass. First, you need to remove the turf and soil to a thickness slightly greater than the brick or other material for the blind area.
Then the dug hole is filled with cement-sand mortar. The layer must be at least 2.5 centimeters. Bricks are laid on top, leaving a small gap.
Using a level or a rubber mallet, you need to place all the bricks in one even line with the lawn.
Pour dry cement-sand mixture into the cracks between them and remove the excess.

The result of the work is a landscaped bed made of boards, on which you can grow vegetables and berries, as well as ornamental plants and flowers.

On a paved or concrete area, making such structures is much faster, since a blind area is no longer required.

To create a warm bed, you need to raise it to a height of up to half a meter and place a layer of compost fertilizer between the drainage and the soil. Despite their low cost, they will last about 10 years and produce a generous harvest.

Wood processing and protection

It is possible to extend the service life of a wooden bed, for which it is necessary saturate the wood with protective agents.

These include:

Special impregnations that prevent moisture and rotting. There are many similar products on the market. If you plan to grow garden plants, it is recommended to choose environmentally friendly solutions so as not to harm the body with pesticides.
The simplest, cheapest and safest option is to treat the wood with lime.
If you cover the boards with a special varnish or paint for wood, this will also extend their service life.

There is no need to forget about measures to protect the boards from adverse external influences; the treated wood will provide the bed with a much longer service life.

Video on how to make such a design with your own hands

The video clearly shows the process of creating a warm, high bed:

Many summer residents suffer because the groundwater in the area is too high. Excessive soil moisture is not suitable for all plants; many develop poorly or even die. You can solve the problem by making high beds. With this arrangement of plantings, it is possible to control the degree of humidity. And a pleasant bonus to such a decision will be an earlier ripening period and a much larger harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition to solving problems with waterlogging, high beds in the garden allow you to sow or plant plants 2-3 weeks earlier: raised above the ground, they warm up more actively due to the fact that the sun warms the walls. This is also facilitated by the decomposition processes occurring in plant waste, which constitute a significant part of the backfill. That is why such beds are also called warm. If you place arcs on such a bed and cover them with spunbond or other similar material, then the harvest can be harvested even earlier.

The device is more problematic in regions with hot climates. The task in this case is not to better heat the earth, but to keep it from overheating. But this can also be solved: use materials with poor thermal conductivity, for example, wood, to fence high beds. For a better effect, you can make double walls, between which you can fill, for example, sawdust, lay polystyrene foam, or you can leave an air gap - better thermal insulation. In hot climates, it is better to paint the outer wall with white paint or whitewash it. It is known that light-colored surfaces heat up less. In this case, it will be possible to keep the root system from overheating: in the south the earth sometimes gets very hot and the higher the plant is, the cooler it will be. You can also stretch the same covering material over the beds. It not only retains heat, but also protects against overheating.

Raised beds can also be a good option on infertile lands. It is more convenient to lay out the imported soil in beds rather than distribute it over the entire site. The compost layer, which is located under the soil layer, contributes to maintaining fertility.

The problem of arid regions is also being solved. In this case, the inside of the fence for a high bed is coated with bitumen mastic or covered with film, and a roll of waterproofing material is placed on the bottom (on the mesh) (roofing felt will quickly rot, so it’s better to use one of the modern types of waterproofing). It will not be possible to achieve complete waterproofing, but it will be possible to retain moisture inside in sufficient quantities - yes.

Carrots - one to one. The best one is in a high bed, although the same variety was planted in a regular bed

As you can see, with a balanced approach, almost any problem can be solved. Raised beds have few disadvantages, but they are not without them:

In most cases, you have to make a fence, and this costs money.
The complexity of the process. Again, it takes time to make fences, and there is also a fair amount of earth and plant debris to move around, which is hard work.
Mole crickets and other similar animals thrive in rotting leaves, branches, and bark. We have to fight them.
Fertility has to be maintained by updating or completely replacing the “filling”.

That's all the shortcomings. If you decide to arrange raised beds, be prepared for a considerable amount of work. But the harvest will be many times greater. You can make one or two beds for testing. And then decide whether you need them or not.

Dimensions

On one site there are very high beds and not very...

So, the dimensions of the raised beds are:

Height - from 20 cm to 50-60 cm. Look here what a difficult task it turns out to be. The higher the bed is raised, the easier it is to process - less bending. But more land and all the other “fillings” will be required. One more point: if a small bed may be covered with snow and will be covered from severe frosts, then a tall one will freeze through: the sides will also be open. For those beds where annuals are sown, this does not play any role, but for perennial strawberries, let’s say, this is a problem. Therefore, the height is chosen based on these considerations. According to the experience of many summer residents, the optimal height for strawberries is 20 cm. Then you can hope that it will not freeze.
Width - from 60 cm to 1.2 m. Choose a distance so that it is convenient for you to cultivate the bed. A distance of 60-70 cm is chosen if the approach to the bed is only from one side. If you can reach it from both sides, you can make it a meter or more. It is important that the middle is processed without much stress.
Length. Here everyone chooses based on the configuration of the site or their desire. There are no recommendations at all.

To prevent the bed from being too high, part of it can be buried: bury it 20-30 cm, and then put walls on top. The removed soil will be used for backfilling (there is often simply not enough soil), and the substrate from the lower coarse layers can be made thicker. And to minimize the cost of maintaining such a bed, you can.

How can you fence high beds?

You can use anything that can hold the soil. The most durable curbs are made from brick, stone and concrete.

But brick costs a lot, and it takes a long time to work with concrete. A concrete fence is made according to all the rules: first, formwork in which the reinforcement is laid, then it is poured with concrete and they wait until it sets. But the service life is impressive - decades.

Fencing for garden beds made of concrete is the most durable and will never “float”

Brick and stone fencing is also built according to all the rules: with mortar and bandaging. To reduce brick consumption, the walls are laid in half a brick. And so that the earth does not move it, the rows are reinforced with mesh.

But even in this option, you will need to install support pillars every meter. If your soil is viscous, heavy, and often waterlogged, such walls can be squeezed out. Therefore, install wooden or metal supports that will support long walls or make small beds, as for

Fence for high beds made of expanded clay concrete blocks

They also make fences for high beds from galvanized metal and slate. You can use used slate, you can buy new, wave or smooth - it doesn’t matter. Cut the sheets into strips of the required width. There is no need to fear that it is harmful. Slate contains asbestos in a bound state, and it does not dissolve with water. It is harmful when it is sawed: dust rises and enters the body through the respiratory tract. To reduce the risk, wear a respirator and wet the incision area.

They make fences for the garden beds from plastic. Have you changed the siding? Use it. There are old plastic panels - they are used. But plastic requires a rigid base. It is made from a metal mesh made of thick wire.

The grids can become the basis for pebbles or pellets. Only in this case will you need a double frame, inside of which stones or some other material is poured. This technique is called “gabion” and it is used to make not only fences for garden beds and gardens, but also fences. But to prevent water from seeping through the walls from the gabion beds, the inside of the box is lined with a thick film.

The most popular fencing is made of wood. You can use boards, timber, logs. Wood is good for everything, except that it rots.

And since all the conditions have been created in high beds to activate this process, destruction occurs quite quickly. You can slow down the process somewhat by painting the boards or impregnating them with a bioprotective composition. But there is still no guarantee against destruction.

But you can use cheap, and sometimes even waste, material: leftovers from construction, slabs, old logs, pallets, etc. If desired, you can even make a fence from branches. It is only advisable to remove the bark: it is under it that there are many larvae and woodworms. Although...they will also process the wood debris that you place at the bottom of the backfill. But you don’t need too many of them either, so it’s probably better to remove the bark.

From the same branches, only freshly cut, you can make a wicker fence. And it will also need to be lined with film from the inside: to keep water and earth inside.

You can even use straw. It is tied into small bundles, which are connected to each other using wire. It simply couldn’t be cheaper, and it holds water and temperature well. The only disadvantage of this option is that such a fence will last for a maximum of two seasons, but rather one. But it can then be used as one of the layers.

There are high beds without a fence: the so-called bulk beds. The soil in them is poured in the form of hills.

To improve drainage, branches are placed inside such a ridge. To reduce the height of the bed (for example, for tomatoes), it is deepened a little, throwing the soil to the side. After laying the branches, it is filled on top; there is often a need for additionally imported soil. If you cannot choose row spacing deeply.

The disadvantage of this kind of garden: when watering and during rains, the top layer of soil is washed away. That’s why they started making boxes - to avoid washing out the soil.

Layers of raised beds

Framing is only a small part of the job. The resulting box still needs to be filled. It must be said right away that the thickness of the layers depends on the height of the bed that you have chosen, so if any values are given, they are purely approximate. In addition to the size of the bed, the thickness of the layer, for example, fertile, is influenced by the choice of plants: for some, 5 cm is enough, but for others, much more is needed.

So, what to pour into a high bed - layers from bottom to top:

A metal mesh with a fine mesh or layer is placed at the bottom. You can put cardboard. Mesh and geotextiles - protection against rodents and moles. Cardboard plays approximately the same role, but it is less effective.
Large woody debris: thick branches, twigs, even logs and bars. This layer serves, firstly, for drainage, and secondly, moisture accumulates in the wood. The drier the climate in your region, the more wood you need. Moreover, the following wood layers too.
Chopped small branches, bark. Other coarse plant debris will work: corn stalks, straw. Their task is also twofold. They store water and, when decomposed, release heat and nutrients. But when using corn trunks and straw, keep in mind that the bed will soon sink: these remains will quickly rot, but the yield will be high, and you can add fertile soil on top.
Paper, thin cardboard. It is usually lined with a thin layer. Packaging cardboard is more often used, because glossy paper is not suitable, just like newspapers: lead paint is not at all what you need to fertilize plants with. If you have old unnecessary burlap (natural), you can lay it down.
Layer of plant residues: foliage, grass, semi-decomposed sawdust. Be careful with sawdust: they strongly acidify the soil. So sprinkle them under plants that like acidic soil, or neutralize the acidity by covering them with a good layer of ash.
Fertile land.

You can add a good portion of mature compost to the last two layers, as well as sprinkle it into the deeper layers. This will speed up the “readiness” of the raised bed for planting.

When is the best time to do it and what to plant?

It is better to fill a high bed in the fall. During this period, there will be enough “material” and over the winter the processes inside will gain momentum. In this case, you can plant plants in the spring and hope for a high harvest. It can be done in the spring, but there are unlikely to be any significant differences in yield: the processes have just begun and will not have a noticeable effect on the fertility of the backfill. Although you will definitely feel the difference in the amount of water for irrigation: much less water is required.

One of the options for a high bed: metal mesh and reinforced polyethylene film

Plant rotation

In the year a high bed is installed, plants that require high fertility can be planted on it: cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, pumpkin, any type of cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, sweet peppers. The next year you can plant greens - spicy-aromatic and leafy. Root vegetables feel good in the second year.

After the second harvest, fertility must be restored. If the contents of the bed have sagged, in the fall they add good soil mixed with mature compost. If there is nowhere to add more, remove part of the top layer (to a compost heap or into another box as part of the backfill) and replace it with fresh soil with fertilizers.

High bed for strawberries

It differs only in that covering material is spread over the finished “pie”. Holes are made in it into which plants are planted. This option leads to the fact that moisture evaporates in minimal quantities, and weeds do not grow in the aisles. The second option - mulching the soil also works well, but evaporation is more intense.

The peculiarity of strawberries is that their roots are located mainly on the surface. Therefore, the fertile layer may be small. But this same feature leads to the fact that in severe frosts it can die. Although a decomposition process is taking place inside the high bed, warming the soil, if the bed is without snow and not covered for the winter, the root system may freeze.

High bed for cucumbers and tomatoes

In terms of its structure, it is no different. Is it just because poles and crossbars or stretched wire are needed at the edges so that you can tie up tomato bushes or cucumber vines.

DIY raised beds

Most often, questions arise not when laying layers in high beds, but when making the box. Since women are often involved in gardening, including making fences for garden beds, many aspects may not be clear to them. To clarify the most difficult ones, we present photo reports of making boxes from boards and slate - the most common fencing.

From boards

Several options for how to make high beds from boards were in the photo above. The main problem is usually the connection in the corners. The easiest way is to overlap them: just put one to the other at 90° and nail them all the way through. But there are aesthetes who strive to do everything right. The correct way is to cut two boards at an angle of 45° and connect them that way. This is exactly the option that will be demonstrated in the photo.

To make it convenient to fix the fence on the ground, vertical bars or pieces of board are nailed in increments of 1.2-1.5 m, the length of which is approximately 20 cm greater than the selected height of the bed.

The lower end of the block or board needs to be sharpened - this will make it easier to hammer the fence into the ground. Then take a miter box or circular saw and cut the edges at an angle of 45°. By placing two boards together we get a perfect 90° angle.

For a strong connection, we install a block on the inside of the corner, to which we nail the boards.

This is what happened. It just lies with its “burdens” up. They are driven into the ground

It doesn’t take long to make a fence for high beds made of wood, but it’s even easier to join the boards end-to-end and nail metal corners for strength (pictured below).

From logs

It is no more difficult to make a similar box from hewn logs. For example, this option: two long sides are made of logs, and short sides are made of pieces of boards.

Whitewash the finished fence: both protection from pests and a more attractive appearance.

From slate

When making beds from flat or wave slate, questions also arise about how to secure it. The easiest way is to dig it in. But this is not economical: you will have to make the stripes at least 10 cm wider and there is still no guarantee that the slate will not “float” in the spring. In the muddy ground it will simply be squeezed out en masse. It can be fixed, but it will take extra time and effort.

Therefore, most often, corners or pipes are driven in on one or both sides of the sheet, which clamp the slate and prevent it from deviating much. In the photo, the corners are driven in only from the outside: from the inside there will be pressure from the mass of layers of the high bed, so that the fence will not fall inward.

The junction of two sheets is secured with a special welded plate. For reliability, they can be bolted to a wooden block attached to that side.

A piece of reinforcement with a welded plate - to insure the joint of two sheets of flat slate

Another option is to make a frame. Attach a beam or corner to similar racks with welded plates - whichever is cheaper. And attach slate cut into strips to this frame (it holds well with nails, but it’s easier with self-tapping screws).

Frame made of timber in a fence for a high bed

Using the same principle - with guides - beds are made from plastic panels and other similar materials. As you understand, there is no need for particularly virtuoso skill here. The main thing is that it holds up well.

Traditional cultivation of the land requires a lot of time and physical effort, and the harvest does not always correspond to expectations. That is why more and more gardeners are setting up high beds on their plots, which allow them to obtain an excellent harvest of vegetables every year without much effort. Anyone can make raised beds with their own hands, because this does not require special skills or special equipment.

Benefits of raised beds

Compared to conventional beds, bulk beds have many more advantages:

a vegetable garden can be planted even in an area completely unsuitable for farming;
Digging and weeding of the garden are replaced by light loosening of the soil;
in a limited space it is easier to remove weeds;
the high bed is easy to install and just as easy to disassemble;
You can lay out paths between the beds and walk along them in any weather;
plants ripen faster, which is especially important for cold regions;
when arranging a high bed, good drainage is ensured;
crops in the beds can be easily protected from frost by covering them with tarpaulin or agrofibre.

In addition, a vegetable garden made from raised beds can be very decorative, so you can plant it next to your house.

Fencing materials

A raised bed is a frame of certain dimensions, the internal space of which is filled with soil, compost and fertilizers. Most often, the frame is made of a rectangular shape, and it is assembled from boards, slate, branches, plastic and other materials.

Wood is the most affordable, easy to install and environmentally friendly material. To assemble the beds, boards, timber, and small logs are used. Disadvantages: wood requires wood, quickly darkens and loses its attractiveness, and is short-lived.

Vine and twigs are an inexpensive and original solution. Wicker walls look very attractive; you can give the bed any shape. Disadvantages: weaving vines requires skills; the service life of such a frame is very short.

Stone and brick are an option for areas with classical architecture. A very reliable and durable material, it gives the beds a decorative look. Disadvantages: high cost, it will take more time to create a bed, difficult to dismantle.

Plastic is an excellent alternative to wood. Sheet plastic is easy to assemble and disassemble, it is quite durable, has an attractive appearance, is very durable and relatively inexpensive. Disadvantages: certain types of plastic contain harmful substances, so they are not suitable for the garden. The environmentally friendly material has an appropriate certificate, which must be presented upon purchase.

Metal is a convenient and durable material, ideal for shaped beds. If necessary, moving the metal frame will not be difficult, as will dismantling it. The appearance of the metal walls is neat; they can be painted in any color or decorated with ornaments. Disadvantages: welding skills are required to assemble a metal curb, the price of sheet metal is quite high, and high-quality surface treatment is required to protect against corrosion.

– an excellent solution for multi-tiered beds or arranging a vegetable garden on a slope. The walls can be made monolithic or assembled from separate ones. The concrete surface is easy to decorate, it is extremely strong, durable, and has a neat appearance. Disadvantages: lengthy installation process, high cost of materials, additional requirements for the design of the drainage system.

Decorating beds with slate is a completely budget-friendly and simple option. The walls can be installed very quickly, this material lasts a long time, and for decorative purposes the slate can be painted in any color. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the material, so it should be handled with care during installation.

Each gardener selects the size and shape of the bulk bed at his own discretion. And yet, there are optimal parameters at which the bed will be most effective:

height from the ground 15-50 cm;
width 90-120 cm;

If the bed is placed on fertile soil, it is made 15-20 cm high. This is quite enough for a good harvest. If the soil on the site is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised to 30 cm. Compost beds are made even higher - up to 0.5 m. Sometimes the walls are raised very high, which allows you not to bend over while cultivating the soil and planting plants, but this increases material consumption and requires more time to arrange a garden. In addition, with a large frame width, it is inconvenient to cultivate the soil at such a height.

The width of the bed should be sufficient for two rows of plants. With this planting, all plants will receive the same amount of air and sunlight, which has a very positive effect on yield. More rows result in the average plants receiving less air, being shaded, stretched upward, and yields falling. It is also much easier to cultivate a bed of standard width than one that is too wide.

The length of the bulk bed does not play a special role, therefore it is limited only by the size of the plot. The most common option is beds with a length of 1.5 to 3 m; They are compact and look neat in the garden.

Proper arrangement of high beds

For example, a bed with a fence made of boards is taken; This option is the most convenient and inexpensive.

During the work you will need:

bayonet shovel;
roulette;
drill or screwdriver;
building level;
circular saw or jigsaw;
self-tapping screws;
boards 50x200 mm;
timber 50x50 mm;
primer;
construction mesh.

Step 1. Wood processing

The boards are cut to the size of the frame, after which they are coated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation. You can use used oil for these purposes, and to prevent harmful substances from penetrating into the soil, after treatment it is recommended to cover the tree with film on one side. The lower edges of the boards, which will be in contact with the ground, are treated especially carefully. The timber is sawn into pieces 50 cm long and also impregnated with a protective agent. After this, the building material is laid out to dry.

Step 2. Site preparation

The area for the garden bed should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day. They mark the boundaries of the bed, remove stones and branches, and dig up perennial plants. If desired, you can dig up the soil together with fine grass - this will increase the permeability of the soil. If the soil is very dense and trampled, it is enough to remove the layer of turf around the perimeter of the marking to a small depth to make it easier to position the frame.

Step 3. Assembling the frame for the bed

The dried boards are knocked down in pairs into panels and connected to each other using bars. The height of the shields is equal to the height of the bed, the long sides of the frame are additionally reinforced with transverse bars in the center. Since the length of the bars is greater than the height of the walls, they should protrude 10 cm above the frame. These will be the legs of the frame. To improve the appearance of the structure, boards laid flat, the edges of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, are placed around the perimeter of the frame. Finally, the frame can be painted on the outside.

Step 4. Installation of the structure

The finished frame is transferred to the installation site; align the structure according to the markings, make recesses for the legs, check the location of the bed using a building level. If necessary, place pegs or, conversely, remove excess soil. The structure should be as level as possible, with all corners at the same level. Finally, add soil around the perimeter of the walls and compact it so that there are no gaps left.

Step 5. Filling the bed

First, the bottom is covered with a construction mesh and nailed along the edges to the walls of the frame. The mesh will protect the structure from the penetration of moles and mice. Then geotextiles are laid, which will not allow weeds to grow. Next, the beds are filled in layers:

small branches, bark, large shavings, leaves;
bird droppings, rotted manure or;
fallen leaves, branches, bark, grass;
mineral fertilizer;
fertile land.

The thickness of each layer is 10 cm. There is no need to mix the layers, but it is necessary to level and compact well. If the soil on the site is not of very good quality, it is better to use purchased soil. After filling, the bed is well watered and left for a couple of days. During this time, the layers will settle a little and become denser. It is recommended to cover the frame with black agrofibre, which provides better soil heating and prevents weeds from germinating.

It is recommended to make high beds in the fall or at the end of summer, so that the layers are well rotted and the plant roots receive the maximum of useful substances. If the beds are installed in the spring, it is necessary to fill them at least a month before planting and pour plenty of water several times to compact them. It is easy to turn such a structure into a greenhouse: to do this, plastic or metal arcs are installed above the frame, the ends of which are secured to the walls with bolts. A polyethylene film or special agrofibre is attached to the arches on top.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Construction of beds made of slate

To create bulk beds, you can use both flat and wavy slate. The technology for installing beds using this method is very simple and anyone can do it.

Table. Wave slate

To work you will need:

slate sheets;
Bulgarian;
bayonet shovel;
a piece of chalk or pencil;
roulette;
level;
rubber hammer;
drill;
wooden pegs or metal rods.

Step 1. Marking

In the selected area, the boundaries of the beds are marked and beacons are installed. Narrow grooves are dug along the perimeter to the depth of a bayonet. If the soil is good, then remove the entire fertile layer inside the marking, pouring it near the future beds.

Step 2. Preparing the material

Sheets of slate are laid on a flat surface, the required length is measured and a chalk line is drawn across the waves. After this, the slate is cut along the lines using a grinder. The pegs are impregnated with bitumen mastic or waste oil, and if scraps of metal rods are used as posts, they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Step 3. Installing the frame

The first sheet of slate is installed vertically in the groove from the corner of the marking. Next, place the next sheet with an overlap in one wave, level it, and beat it on top with a rubber hammer so that both sheets are at the same height. Check the location of the upper edge of the slate with a building level; if necessary, add or remove soil from below. The walls are reinforced with metal rods or pegs, which are driven in on both sides to a depth of 0.5 m. So, all the sheets of the frame are placed one by one, the trench is filled up and the horizontal level is checked again. After this, the soil near the walls is compacted and the excess is removed.

Step 4. Filling the bed

At the very bottom you can put old newspapers, cardboard, pieces of wallpaper, the next layer is chopped brushwood, tree bark, sawdust. After this, small shavings are poured in, plant waste, peat or compost are laid. And all this is sprinkled on top with the soil that was taken out at the very beginning. Apply plenty of water to the bed to wet all layers and leave for several days. When the bed is compacted, you can begin planting.

Garden bed care

When the plants sprout, the plantings should be well watered and mulched. Weeds that break through the mulch layer are immediately removed. After harvesting, the surface is loosened and sown with green manure. Before the onset of cold weather, all vegetation is mowed down, leveled on the bed, covered with a layer of earth on top and covered with black film for the winter. Periodically it is necessary to inspect the walls of the frame, replace or repair individual sections.

The soil between the beds is most often covered with fine crushed stone, gravel, straw, and sometimes sown with lawn grass. In such conditions, the garden always remains well-groomed, weeds do not grow, and dirt does not stick to shoes. If desired, you can use tiles and bricks, or pour concrete.

Video - DIY raised beds

Video - Raised beds made of slate

How to make beds from boards to increase productivity and improve your summer cottage? This is not as difficult a task as many imagine, but you still have to try. Before starting work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the advantages and other features of this design.

Assembling the box is quite simple

Despite the multiple advantages of this solution, it is not without its drawbacks. These include the need for annual maintenance of the manufactured wooden structure. In order for the box to last longer, it needs to be treated periodically.

What materials are best to use

The box can be constructed from any lumber left over after construction. For example, from decking boards, lining and other things. However, if we are talking about purchasing lumber for the boxes being constructed, in this case it is worth paying attention to one nuance, namely, what kind of wood the board is made of.

Before installation

Oak or ash

A box made of ash or oak will last as long as possible. Of course, such lumber “bites” in terms of cost, but the good quality of the board more than compensates for this.

Pine

Pine is beneficial in terms of cost and subsequent processing. But it is worth considering that untreated pine quickly breaks down and rots in damp soil.

Diagram with dimensions

Larch or cedar

Lumber from cedar or larch is best suited for making boxes. These types of wood are initially richly impregnated with resin. Due to this, they do not always need to be processed. They are already able to lie in the ground for a long time without consequences. An additional advantage of this solution is the price: it does not hit the wallet.

All that's left is to plant the seedlings

It is up to you to decide which type of lumber to choose. But, of course, it would be a mistake to save on this. Low-quality wood will rot within a couple of years.

Wood protection

Whatever type of wood the board is made of, it still needs to be processed before subsequent use.

The only exceptions are larch and cedar boards. The service life of the box will depend on this action. However, be extremely careful not to subsequently contaminate the soil.

The best option for processing lumber is coating with lime. The best results are shown by impregnation with the preparation “Senezh” and similar ones. But their use will entail additional financial costs.

Manufacturing diagram and sequence

Another good option would be to coat the wood with a double coat of paint, preferably oil-based. This will also give the appearance of additional framing. This coating will not harm plants or pollute the soil. However, it is worth choosing environmentally friendly paint, especially if the frame is being built in a greenhouse.

There is also one more nuance - during the painting process it is not advisable to paint the ends of the boards. It is through these areas that the tree will breathe and get rid of accumulated moisture, especially in a greenhouse. If you do this, the tree will rot much faster.

The photo below shows the installation of boxes.

Maintenance aisles must be taken into account

What fencing size to choose

Basically, rectangular formworks for soil are made, although they can be triangular, diamond-shaped or square. It is very important to determine the correct dimensions. Correctly sized formwork is easier and more convenient to maintain.

So, boxes of the following sizes are made for the beds:

It is very important to calculate the height correctly. A deliberately erroneous opinion that many gardeners adhere to: higher means better. Of course, such formworks have certain advantages, but there is a limit to everything. Making raised sides (75 cm) makes sense for “”, in which filler is laid in layers. Also at this height you can assemble a bed for cucumbers (for cucumber seedlings), tomatoes and other things. A height of 20 cm is sufficient for ordinary raised fences. The disadvantage is that quite a lot of wood is consumed in its manufacture. Moreover, during the cold season, the middle layer of earth inside the structure will freeze and expand, causing the destruction of the entire frame.
The width of the structure determines the convenience of subsequent work. There is an opinion among gardeners that the width of the bed should be equal to half the height of human height. This parameter is 95-120 cm. And indeed, with such parameters, the gardener, bending over, will be able to reach from the side to the middle of the bed.
Length is a parameter that has no restrictions. However, it is worth considering that if you make the side too long, its middle loses its rigidity. In this case, the middle of the structure should be reinforced with rigid guides. The optimal length is from 4.5 to 7 m.

It is also very important to take into account the presence of paths in this area.

The photo shows triangular shaped boxes.

The variety of possible shapes will satisfy the imagination of any gardener

The frame must be constructed taking into account the 45-centimeter path along which you will move around the summer cottage.

The dimensions of the structure being constructed may depend on both the soil itself and the crops grown:

if the land at your summer cottage is fertile, it is not necessary to make high sides;
if the soil is quite rocky or infertile, it is recommended to build a structure with a side height of 30 cm, taking into account the laying of an additional layer of fertilizers;
As for warm compost structures (greenhouse), their height starts from 50 cm, such parameters will protect the cultivated crops from sudden spring frosts;
for the fastest ripening of early crops, you need to use a box higher than 20 cm;
if your plans are to grow potatoes, then in this case the sides of the box should be at least 40 cm.

The photo shows trapezoidal boxes.

The most basic mistake gardeners make is that they pay attention only to the area, shape and boundaries of the paths when building beds from boards. However, not only these parameters should be taken into account. The location of the structure in relation to the lighting is of great importance.

Strawberries and other fruits and vegetables require a certain arrangement of structures, since the yield depends on this. For example, it is worth building in the direct sun. This will promote crop growth.

Layout diagram in the greenhouse

It is correct to make beds for strawberries in an orientation from north to south. In this case, before lunch, the plants will be perfectly illuminated on one side, and after lunch on the other.

It is also possible to place structures on a summer cottage from east to west. On the north side, you can plant a type of plant that loves shade. An example of the arrangement of boxes is shown in the photo below.

It is necessary to correctly position the structures relative to the sun

The beds on the site are made to facilitate care and increase productivity. They can be made using various materials: wood, slate, etc. Most often, wood is used as a material for arranging beds.

Advantages and disadvantages of board beds

Fences for beds made of boards not only look attractive, but also perform practical functions. A bed fenced with boards does not crumble. Wooden sides are able to hold soil while maintaining the shape and size of the bed. The fencing structure is much easier to weed. This is due to the fact that the area for weed germination is reduced. Also, framed beds are convenient in a greenhouse. If necessary, layers of soil can be filled in. The main advantages of beds made of boards:

there is no shedding of beds
minimum time for weeding
cheap material
easy installation
ease of use
long service life

The beds, fenced with boards, are dug up twice - during planting and after harvesting. The only disadvantage of such a fence is its fragility. Under the influence of various factors, the wood will begin to rot. To avoid this, use wood impregnation. It is important to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material to protect wood.

This article has helped many gardeners stop working hard on their plots and still get a bountiful harvest.

I would never have thought that in order to get the best harvest on my plot in my entire “dacha career”, I just need to stop working on the beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First at my parents' house, and then my husband and I bought our own. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, tying, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, preserving and trying to preserve the harvest until next year. And so in a circle...

Do-it-yourself beds from boards in the photo

Boards are the most acceptable and common material for fencing beds. When installed correctly, they fit tightly to the soil and do not leave any gaps. In addition, the board structure retains moisture well inside the bed, which has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants.

What kind of board to make beds from?

Wooden boards for beds should be made of durable material - oak or ash. Such material rarely rots, but is highly expensive. Pine fencing boards are not durable. They should be impregnated with a special substance to prevent rotting.

When making structures for garden beds, it is better to use boards made from coniferous trees. Cedar or larch would be the best material. Resin can protect against external influences.

Board beds: what size? height? thickness?

For fencing, you can use boards, slats and beams. The height of the bed can be any. You should know that if the bed is too high and wide, it will be inconvenient to work and harvest on it. The optimal height of the bed is no more than 15 cm. If the soil is not suitable for growing vegetables, then add a layer of fertile soil, which means the height in this case will increase to 30-40 cm. For work you will need the following tools:

Shovel
Level
Roulette
Self-tapping screws
Screwdriver

First you need to decide on the shape and size of the beds. After this, prepare the material. You can use old wooden boards, but it is first recommended to remove all nails and level the boards using a plane. Then mark the beds and cut the boards according to the measurements. For a rectangular bed 3 meters wide and 1 meter long, you will need 4 boards. Connect the sawn boards using nails. Next make the legs. To do this, nail boards of any length to the 4 corners from the inside. Nail 2 more legs in the middle of the length of the manufactured frame. In order for the legs to penetrate the soil better, they should be sharpened with an ax.

Installation of a tall wooden box for beds

You can install a wooden box in one of 2 ways: directly on the ground and without digging up the soil, or install it in depth. The next step is to prime the boards. This is necessary to protect against moisture, sunlight, fungus and insects and other pests. You can make the primer yourself or buy it ready-made in the store. If you decide to do it yourself, you will need quicklime, laundry soap and water. Pour a kilogram of lime into 2 liters of water. Take laundry soap and grate about 100 g and add hot water. Then add the soap solution to the water with lime and mix well. If you need water, be sure to top it up. Before using the prepared mixture, it must be strained.

Treatment of beds made of boards against weather conditions

After priming, treat the fence with oil paint. This way you can not only protect from adverse weather conditions, but also give an attractive appearance. After the structure is ready, fill the bed. First add drainage and then soil. Then water until the soil settles. When constructing a warm bed, its height should be at least 50 cm. You should also remember to place compost fertilizer between the soil and the drainage layer. Making a garden bed with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the sequence of work and recommendations.