Layout of electrical wiring in the house. We install electrical wiring in a private house. Working with hidden wiring
If you decide to build your own house or simply make a major renovation, then you cannot do without installing or replacing electrical wiring. Drawing up a functional and practical power supply diagram is the initial stage of work. In order to make the installation process easier and faster, a schematic diagram of the electrical wiring is drawn up.
Why make a power supply diagram?
- A detailed plan diagram allows you to calculate the amount of consumables;
- Using a schematic diagram, you can clearly know where exactly and what consumer will be located (sockets, electric meter, input panel, etc.).
Electrical wiring diagram (power supply) in a private house
The figure below shows that an overhead power line (power line) is used to supply a 220-380 Volt network. From the installed pole, power lines are connected directly to the electrical panel: phase and zero (PEN).
Figure 1. Single-phase input plan
Electrical services have recently required the installation of electric meters directly on the street at the input electrical panel, where the RCD and automatic circuit breaker are also located.
Next, the electrical wiring is connected to the internal electrical panel of the mansion, from where the power supply to the mansion continues. There are several groups into which the main consumers of electricity can be divided:
- Power (refrigerator, dishwasher, boiler, boiler, etc.);
- Lighting (chandeliers, sconces, sapphires and others);
- Household premises (utility rooms, basements, garages, etc.).
Each group must have its own circuit breaker and RCD.
Figure 2. Single-phase power line - location diagram.
1. input protective circuit breaker;
2. electric meter;
4. single-pole type circuit breaker;
5. bus zero;
Figure 3. Electrical wiring of the cottage - plan diagram
Figure 4. Electrical supply to your own home - schematic diagram
If you have a two-tier or large cottage, then it is best to use separate groups of consumers, be it rooms, floors or separate parts of the mansion.
Electrical wiring of a country house is a three-phase circuit.
If you use three-phase input to the house (L1, L2, L3), then the use of a protective neutral wire PEN will be necessary.
Figure 5. Location and connection of three-phase power supply of the mansion - diagram.
1 – three-phase protective circuit breaker at the input;
2 – electricity meter;
3 – RCD-selective;
4 – neutral wire;
5 – automatic single-pole switch;
6 – RCD for a separate group;
7 – grounding bus.
DIY apartment wiring diagram
The difference from the above-described scheme will be in the number of consumers, and also the input begins from the electrical panel on the floor via the existing cable line, as opposed to an overhead line, as for a house. At the same time, it is important to comply
To introduce electrical wiring into an apartment, a floor panel is needed, and it must also additionally have devices such as a meter and, accordingly, an input machine. In ordinary cases, each apartment has two power supply lines separate from each other. To protect each of the existing lines, they must be equipped with a protective fuse or automatic burst switch. Thanks to this, if a short circuit occurs on one of the existing lines, the apartment will not be de-energized and will be able to use electricity from the second line.
There are two types of electrical wiring you can use in your apartment: open or closed.
- Open wiring involves the use of NYM or ShVVP wires;
- Closed-type electrical wiring involves the use of cable or wire of almost any type.
- Closed-type electrical wiring is divided into: removable and non-replaceable. The first is mounted directly inside pipes made of plastic. The second is installed under a layer of plaster.
In addition to the electrical panel on the floor (staircase), it is necessary to install a distribution panel in the apartment. Thus, you get a division of all premises into separate sectors of all consumers.
Not every home craftsman knows how to properly install electrical wiring in a house with his own hands. We will help you formulate the basics for a novice master and equip your home with light and warmth.
The installation of electrical communications can be carried out in both open and closed ways. The open type is laid on the wall surface, covering the cables with plastic tubes or baseboards. The height level for this type is not regulated and is chosen arbitrarily. When performing installation work on open wiring, it is prohibited to combine cables of different power in one plinth. Moreover, these decorative elements must be selected from non-combustible material, which, moreover, has insulating properties. In basements and attics, cables are secured using special brackets.
Concealed electrical wiring is located in voids specially designed for this purpose, inside suspended ceiling structures or partitions. It is recommended to lay the power cable simultaneously with the installation of floors. If there are no ready-made niches, then it is made, and the wire is laid in the resulting grooves. When installing an electrical system for lighting fixtures under a layer of plaster, it is necessary to use cables that have protective insulation.
When installing electrical wiring in a private house, you must remember that communications hidden by plaster must run perfectly smooth horizontally or vertically. By laying cables in all sorts of voids, you can look for the shortest paths, while saving wire. When installing electricity in suspended ceiling structures, it is necessary to use materials that do not support combustion. When installing in rooms with high humidity, do not use wires with a protective metal sheath.
Before starting work, you need to carefully consider how to conduct electrical wiring in the house, observing all safety rules. After all, work done incorrectly can have unpleasant consequences. In places where the cable branches, it is necessary to install special distribution boxes that will hide the connections and protect them from unwanted short circuits. When installing hidden wiring, it is necessary to install sockets and switches of a special type.
The height of the installation of the electrical cable is independently regulated, but must be at least 40 cm from the floor, to protect the residents of the house from electric shock in the event of unexpected flooding. Following safety regulations, sockets should be installed at a considerable distance from sinks and heating radiators. The distance between these objects must be at least 50 cm.
Installation of sockets in rooms prone to high humidity (baths, saunas) is allowed at a distance exceeding 2.6 m from the water source.
When installing electric motors and various other power equipment, it is necessary to select models whose interior can only be accessed using special tools. Connecting appliances and electric stoves requires the use of a cable that has the appropriate cross-section and must be covered with a metal sheath. Such a wire can be laid under the floor, choosing the shortest path from the machines to the device.
Before laying the wiring in the house, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan on paper, marking on it each switch and the location of heating and power devices. Using the diagram, you can accurately calculate the required number of cables of a certain cross-section, which will significantly save money. Next, we will tell you how to carry out electrical wiring in the house, and even the most distant person from electricity will be able to do it on their own.
Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - let's get to work
Installation of electrical communications is not difficult; the main thing is to follow the required sequence, and everything will definitely work out. So now is the time to start directly discussing the process of how to do electrical wiring in the house.
How to make wiring in the house with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Marking
Before starting installation, regardless of the type chosen, it is necessary to make markings by drawing directly on the wall the places where distribution boxes, switches and, of course, sockets will be located. It is also necessary to mark the route of the wires where they will be mounted. Markings are done using chalk or a marker and a long ruler. As a simplified option, to mark the cable passages, you can use a nylon cord painted with bright paint.
Step 2: Preparing the seats
Using a hammer drill, in the places where the distribution boxes will be located, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which should not exceed 70 mm. And where the wire entry is supposed to be, additional recesses are made to facilitate installation work. When working with a hammer drill, it is advisable to periodically moisten the drilling site with water. This will help preserve the drill, and there will be much less dust.
In places where electric lighting is carried out through a wall into another room, it is necessary to make holes of small diameter. If the private house being created according to the plan will be mounted into a wall, it is necessary to make grooves in it that exactly correspond to the diagram. A grinder or a specially designed construction wall chaser is suitable for this. When working with an angle grinder or a hammer drill, you must follow certain safety measures to maintain your health.
Step 3: Wiring
When laying wires, you need to move from the distribution board in the direction of the wiring boxes, gradually moving on to the lighting fixtures. Fixing the cable on the wall must be done using fasteners, which are installed at a distance of about 30 cm. The points where the wire enters the junction box, as well as all bends, are additionally secured. For fixation, you can use all sorts of wire scraps and scraps that are nailed to the wall, while capturing the cable being mounted. You can also secure communications laid in recesses using a solution with the addition of alabaster.
Step 4: Installing Mounting Boxes
Electrical wiring in the house is done before plastering the room. Distribution boxes are installed using alabaster mortar, a small amount of which is placed in the recess. Before installing this element, wires are inserted into it, then using a certain force they are pressed into the mortar mass, but so that the edges of the box protrude above the surface of the wall. All such elements must be on the same horizontal line for even distribution of switches.
Installing new electrical wiring yourself requires a competent approach and accuracy. Before starting direct installation, a wiring diagram is drawn. In a private home, this is especially important, since installation errors can lead to a fire hazard. A drawn power supply diagram will help you quickly and accurately eliminate damage that may occur in the future or upgrade your home network.
Requirements for wiring in a private house
Electrical wiring is carried out in the form of a combination of wires and cables, as well as their fastenings and associated protective elements. It can be installed in both open and closed types. Open type wiring is laid along the surface of walls, ceilings or floors using: cables, rollers, hoses. Hidden electrical wiring is laid in the middle of various elements of the house: under the floor, in walls, suspended ceilings or in other monolithic objects.
Installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands is not difficult at all if there is a clear circuit diagram. At the same time, all work goes much faster and the likelihood of mistakes is less. Before you begin planning and drawing up a diagram, you need to know what the installation requirements are.
The list of requirements is established by special rules of the PES (rules for the operation of electrical installations), which are mandatory. Here's the main list:
Electrical wiring steps
Compliance with all requirements will ensure that the electrical wiring in the house is done correctly with your own hands. The step-by-step scheme for drawing up a plan can be represented in the form of the following operations:
- choice of material and its quantity;
- installation diagram drawing;
- laying and installation of all parts of electrical wiring;
- performance check.
It is not difficult to complete the steps yourself. But before you properly conduct the wiring in the house, you will need to complete the preparatory stage. It includes determining the places where connection points for electrical appliances and lamps will be located, and their number.
Selection of materials and installation method
The utility company supplies electricity through installed lines using poles and poles or through power cables buried in the ground. The cable branches off from the common line to an electrical panel located on private property. The branch is made with a two-wire or three-wire wire. Accordingly, a two-phase or three-phase line is used. More often, a cable containing a phase and a neutral is removed. An electricity meter is installed at the end of this line. It is important to know that the line to the meter belongs entirely to the energy supply company, and it is prohibited to perform any operations with it.
Further laying of the line is carried out by the owner of the household himself or by an electrician. The line itself can be laid open or hidden.
Open type wiring is carried out on the surface in a visible form, which is both a disadvantage and an advantage. The advantage is ease of installation, free access to any part of the electrical network, but the disadvantage is poor protection from mechanical damage. The cable, laid along the surface, is attached through insulators that resemble a fungus. In this case, the design of sockets, switches, and distribution boxes is of an overhead type. To protect against damage and ensure electrical safety, plastic boxes are used. They form a channel into which the cable is laid.
Hidden wiring is located in the completed, and after laying the cable, plastered grooves. Hidden in a floor screed or behind false panels. Electrical accessories are used internally. The wire itself, if not laid in a concrete or brick wall, is laid in a metal hose. The disadvantage is that if the wire is damaged, it will have to be removed from the monolithic structures. It is possible to use a combined method, making some areas hidden and others external. The required parts of the electrical wiring in the house will be:
- Switch box.
- Circuit breaker.
- Electrical appliance connection point.
- Switch.
- Junction box.
- Cable.
The electrical panel is installed in such a size that all input elements fit into it. The circuit breaker is designed to quickly break the wire in the event of an emergency on the line. Its main characteristic is the value of the rated current. How many amperes a machine will need in a house is calculated by summing the power of the entire planned load that can be connected simultaneously to the circuit.
When selecting a machine, not only the power of the connected devices is taken into account, but also the quality and cross-section of the installed electrical wiring. A mismatch in the cross-section of the cable that will be used for wiring electricity can lead to overheating, resulting in a short circuit and fire.
The cross-section of a wire is characterized by the amount of current that it passes through itself without deteriorating its electrical properties. For example, a copper wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm/2 can withstand a continuous current load of 19 amperes. Therefore, it is impossible to use a 20 A circuit breaker with such a cross-section; you will need one for 16 A.
The distribution box has the form of a plastic container with a lid, on the sides of which there are holes for cable entry. Its main characteristics are the size and quality of the material it is made of. Switches and sockets are designed for a current that does not exceed the value of the devices connected to them.
Building a circuit
After selecting materials and locating connection points for electrical appliances, a drawing of the electrical circuit is made. It is best to use a ready-made house plan, which depicts all the elements involved in building an electrical network.
To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups; this will also help distribute the load and save materials. If a private house has many rooms, then the drawing shows separately the outlet circuits and lighting. The diagram indicates the following:
The cable leaving the meter exits and is switched at the distribution panel. A series of automatic protection systems are installed in it, consisting of an input circuit breaker and single-pole switches. Ideally, each electrical point is equipped with its own automatic machine, but this is not unprofitable in terms of costs. Therefore, groups are created, each of which has its own fuse.
In the middle of the group, disconnection occurs in the following way. The power wire coming out of the machine branches in the distribution box to each electrical point. Such a point represents the place to which the electrical device is switched. In this case, a wire with two or three cores is supplied to the socket, and it is connected in parallel. The switch is installed in series in the break of the power wire.
A wire with three cores implies grounding through one of the three wires. The presence of grounding is important, since there is a potential difference on the metal cases of electrical appliances, for example, on a refrigerator, kettle, heating boiler, etc. This voltage can be life-threatening in the event of an insulation breakdown. Performed grounding eliminates this problem. For this purpose, the socket is equipped with a grounding contact. In fact, this is a continuous connection between the metal parts of electrical appliances and the ground.
Grounding is carried out using a circuit in the form of a triangle, welded from thick metal with equal sides. The grounding loop is located at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house. A large-section wire is screwed to the triangle using a bolt, the other end of which is connected to the grounding strip in the panel.
Cable laying and installation of elements
After drawing up the diagram and purchasing materials, installation occurs. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and strictly follow the drawn diagram. First, lines are drawn along the surfaces of the walls and ceilings corresponding to the laying of the wire. Then the locations of the electrical accessories are marked. For hidden wiring, the following is done: gating, preparation of recesses for sockets, switches, and space for the panel. For external versions, cable holders are attached at equal distances and holes are made for fastening overhead fittings.
After laying and securing the cable, the shield is assembled. To do this, an input circuit breaker is installed on the DIN rail and automatic switches are installed on each group of lines. If necessary, an RCD is added or a differential circuit breaker is installed instead of the input one. This is a type of switch that simultaneously combines the functions of a circuit breaker and an RCD. A grounding and neutral strip is also installed in the shield.
After installing all the elements in the panel, the wires are connected. It is generally accepted to use brown for the phase wire, blue for neutral and yellow-white for grounding. All connections are made using device clamps. In the distribution box, the wires are connected by twisting with further insulation or using clamps in sockets and switches according to their design.
Functionality check
After wiring in the house is done with your own hands or with the help of a specialist, it needs to be checked. To do this, use a multimeter in the continuity mode to check the integrity of the wiring, the absence of short circuits in sockets and switches, and the functionality of the machines.
Only after a successful test is the input machine connected to the meter terminals to supply electricity to the system. If possible, be sure to turn off the machine in front of the meter when connecting. It should be remembered that 220 volt voltage is dangerous to life and working with it requires clearance and knowledge of protection, so at the final stage it is better to invite an electrician.
Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the electrical wiring in your home yourself and save a fair amount of money. The basis for all subsequent types of construction work, after the construction of walls and roofs, or before major repairs, is the correct installation of electrical wiring. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.
Moreover, it is not difficult to do it yourself, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. The equipment can be bought, but we will try to tell you about the necessary knowledge in a popular way.
How to make electrical wiring?
1. Wiring diagram.
In most cases, the electrical wiring diagram is drawn up arbitrarily by the owner of the construction, in other words, out of the blue. And, as a rule, when the craftsmen who came to do this work are standing over his head.
The diagram looks like this: Using chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches are near the doors, and sockets are in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?
After the completion of construction work, the sockets end up behind the furniture, and the switches behind the open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.
The quality of the electrical wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after completion of construction work.
Therefore, the electrical wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.
There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own automatic machine.
It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating, water supply and gas pipes in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the location of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.
The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to take into account the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.
If you are in doubt about whether to install an outlet here or not, do so. It’s better to have an extra outlet than not have one in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.
And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.
The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.
In the off position, the upper part of the switch should protrude, and in the on position, the lower part.
Two single-key switches will always be better than one two-key switch. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.
The distribution board should be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near the front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. Under no circumstances should it be in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in the wardrobe. There should be no sanitary connections near it. All live parts in it must be covered.
2. Wire selection.
The wire must have cores with different insulation colors. Therefore, you need to take all the wire from one manufacturer with the same color range of cores.
For wiring, it is best to use solid copper wire, grade VVG - flat, double insulated. It is better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked by trusted and well-known manufacturers. When purchasing, ask for a quality certificate from the seller. Do not take an unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in a house is done for more than one year and you can’t save money here.
Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross-section, copper wire can withstand 1.5 times more power than aluminum wire. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very important. In addition, copper wire is more durable, stronger, and less susceptible to corrosion than aluminum.
Now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use stranded soft wire of the PVS brands (like this one - it’s double insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this one) - they are used mainly only for extension cords. Such a wire has a higher resistance and lower electrical conductivity than a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to install when making wiring.
Do not use wires of different brands and from different metals to install electrical wiring in an apartment or house.
Now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting wire cross-section. To prevent the wire from heating up, one square or 1 mm2 of the wire cross-section must carry a total current of no more than 9 amperes, that is, such a cable can connect devices with a power of no more than 2 kilowatts.
Based on this, the following cable with a cross-section of one core should be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:
One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a properly equipped grounding circuit, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules for organizing electrical wiring require the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a grounding wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and will pay bitterly for this.
3. Selection of equipment.
When purchasing sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on the withstand power. Don't buy very cheap or very expensive ones. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.
Buy installation boxes (socket boxes) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.
If you plan to make a panel strip of sockets and switches, then the socket boxes should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them together, at a certain distance.
Buy circuit breakers and other switchboard equipment only from well-known and trusted brands. There is no point in saving money here.
4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire routing.
In houses with wooden walls, the wiring is done externally. If you need to do it internally, then only in a metal pipe. Sockets, switches and distribution boxes in a wooden house can only be installed externally. If it is necessary to install internal ones, then only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located outside the walls only.
In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near flammable structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the finished walls, a plastic box is used outside.
For internal wiring, two methods are used. The first, under the plaster - on top of the walls, and the second, with cutting out grooves - grooves in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the groove, without protrusions. To cut grooves, various equipment is used - from a grinder with a diamond blade to a hammer drill and a special wall cutter.
It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only at right angles. It cannot be laid haphazardly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.
The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle of wires there is less ability to transfer heat and can overheat. There should also be no crossing of wires with each other.
The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on the thickness of the ceiling (plaster, tension, plasterboard), a distribution box is placed and a horizontal wire channel is formed.
If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.
Such standards exist so that after covering the wires with cladding materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this norm can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, or at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.
At connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire at least 25 cm long.
The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite varied. A single wire is best secured using this herringbone fastener. It has various shapes and sizes. You need to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this “herringbone” on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is secured. For mounting a metal or plastic hose with a wire, there are also various fasteners.
When connecting wires to the distribution board, they must be marked, and masking tape must be attached indicating where exactly this wire goes.
5. Connection of wires.
Now attention! Important point.
Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross-section from 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.
The wire intended for powering electric stoves, flow-through heaters, that is, for powering powerful electrical appliances, with a cross-section of 4 mm2 and above, cannot be cut, connected or branched. It must be solid and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to install a separate machine in the switchboard.
This rule must never be broken!
The order of connecting the wires is different in each case, depending on which consumers are suitable for each specific box.
But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.
Attention! A wire with a phase, and not a zero, must be connected to a circuit breaker or switch.
The connection of the wires must be reliable, safe and durable.
Simple twisting is prohibited by electrical installation rules. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. Twisting copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this guarantees huge problems in the future.
And now about ways to connect the wires.
The first method is to weld wires with a welding inverter. First, twisting is done, and then its ends are connected by welding. But not everyone has such a welding machine at home.
The second method is crimping. Special sleeves of a certain size are placed on the wires to be connected and, using special pliers, are pressed into the sleeve. But, again, not everyone has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $20.
The third method is soldering. The twisted wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with, of course, certain skills.
After all these methods, the connection of the wires must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.
All of the listed types of connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, labor-intensive, and are already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.
Therefore, here I want to say a very important note.
Namely, why is there no need to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?
Because any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, such a connection does not require any additional tools or insulation. Anyone can connect wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection using terminal blocks is removable.
Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. In modern electrical wiring, cables with a cross-section of up to 2.5 mm2 must be connected only using terminal clamps, and machines with a maximum capacity of 16 amperes must be used for them.
And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.
6.Checking the completed electrical wiring.
It is imperative that after the electrical installation is completed, you need to once again check the correctness of the connection and connection of all wires visually. You can also check them using the device. For such a test, there are special devices on sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, there is no point in buying such a device for your home; it is easier to check it yourself, spending an extra hour or two. If errors are identified, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.
7. Assembly and installation of the distribution board.
The main thing that should be in the switchboard is a meter and circuit breakers - one general and several for consumer groups. It is advisable to install all other equipment, RCD, automatic circuit breaker, voltage relay, etc., in order to protect the lives of household members and the integrity of connected electrical appliances.
The main machine is needed to turn off the power to the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. And a difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged and a heating element or other element breaks through to the housing. If a person touches damaged wires or uninsulated parts of equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.
Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leaks, the other against overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a circuit breaker and connect phase and neutral, resulting in a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.
A differential circuit breaker is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, a differential circuit breaker can protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from current leaks.
A voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it leaves the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.
The circuit breaker must be accurately rated for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to install a machine with a lower power than a larger one. So that the machine would work earlier and turn off the power, so that the wire would overheat, a short circuit would occur and the wiring would catch fire.
Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that powers it, from overheating.
I have already spoken above about which machine needs to protect the cable with which cross-section.
The main mistake here is that people try to install machines with more power, which is why the wiring burns out and apartments burn out.
The wire does not heat up if a device of appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine’s power higher than the calculated one.
There are different categories of slot machines. I won't explain the differences to you.
All you need to remember is the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use only machines with the English letter “B”.
For lighting, you can use category B and category C machines.
And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.
Attention! Under no circumstances should category D automatic machines be installed in an apartment; they are intended for powerful machines and electric motors with high starting currents.
8.Installation of socket boxes.
A place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall can be drilled using a hammer drill with a special attachment - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket box.
The socket boxes are installed after all the necessary finishing work has been carried out on the walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket box on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket box on the wall with a complete and finished finish.
The process is simple. The hole for the socket box, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening solution, it can be a solution of building gypsum.
Then the socket box or junction box must be inserted into the hole, aligned with the wall surface and horizontally using a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.
In plasterboard, a hole for a socket box is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and secured using side clamps.
9. Installation of sockets and switches.
There are no special tricks here. You need to remove the top cover of the socket or switch key. Connect the wires to the terminals, having previously cut them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket box. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Secure the device to the socket box with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides that press the special fastening tabs to the socket box until they stop. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch key.
After installing the sockets, switches and panel, we apply voltage to the electrical wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.
10. And lastly.
You can do electrical wiring in your house yourself, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter do incorrectly. For example, when building a summer house, it was only on the fourth attempt that I found a proper electrician. Electrical installation is a very important section of work that should not be trusted to non-professionals.
If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tools he has for this. Real electricians have a whole set of special tools to carry out all types of work on electrical wiring. And if electricians come to you and they have one hammer between them and it was borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them to the neck.
Ask the technician where he has already installed the wiring and ask the owners about the results. By the way he places an order for consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After the installation begins, carefully monitor its operation, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do your own electrical wiring, also follow these rules.
What is not clear, ask in the comments and you will succeed. Remember that successful electrical installations depend on being careful, attentive, and following instructions.
Select the right wires, the power of the machines, and try to do high-quality electrical installation with your own hands.
Video. How to do electrical wiring in a house?
Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, must be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with the electrics that renovations begin in a new apartment or house. Any major home renovation should begin with it. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they become overgrown primer, painting mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer,
The electrical wiring will remain in place for decades. That is why, before installing it, you need to think very carefully about the future wiring diagram in the apartment.
Where to start
As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here begins a very fun and exciting game called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all. And how many extension cords are needed for a two or three story house, and there are still more of them Do I need to buy it, how much money will it cost? And how many nerves will be spent every time, like you again, you'll stumble about the pilot wire lying on the floor.
What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: an air conditioner, a dishwasher, a freezer, an electric water heater, an electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.
Drawing a diagram - power part
The installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is described in as much detail as possible, with all explanations and pictures, in a step-by-step guide
So, you've made your decision. Now, you need to put all your ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example. To complete the scheme we need:
- notebook sheet
- ruler
- pen
- colored pencils or markers
The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions required, just a general idea. 
Here we have a diagram of the apartment. Simple and clear.
To make it clear what we are talking about, I will number and label the rooms:
- Room 1 - hall
- room 2 - kitchen
- room 3 - bathroom
- room 4 - hallway
Now, we need to draw on our diagram the locations of furniture and household appliances. 
Room 1 - hall:
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Room 2 - kitchen:
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Room 3 - bathroom:
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Room 4 - hallway:
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Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means we will need sockets in these places. Now, we simplify the diagram, remove the furniture, and draw designation of sockets on the diagram. This is the diagram we should get. 
Now, let's clarify the conventions that we have used and will continue to use in our diagrams.
I will duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:
- socket
- double socket
- single-key switch
- two-gang switch
- lamp, chandelier, light bulb
- junction box (distribution box)
- end of the wire for further connection of equipment
- power shield
Specific dimensions and locations of sockets will need to be indicated on the diagram as soon as you have finally decided on the placement of furniture and equipment.
Drawing a diagram - lighting part
In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing with room number 1 - the hall. The coordinates of the location of the lamps, length and width, if the exact dimensions of the room are available, can be indicated immediately. For our example, there are no specific dimensions, so we will take all the necessary measurements during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I’ll show you how to find the center of a room. First, measure the width of the room and divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turns out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 = 2, it turns out to be 2 meters. 
Now, measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, the length is 6 meters, divide in half, 6: 2 = 3, it turns out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. Using the given values, we mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross. 
Similarly, we mark out all the other rooms. 
We divide the L-shaped room, number 4 (hallway), into two parts and also mark it out. 
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the lamps and get this picture. 
To complete our diagram, we need to draw switches. To do this, we need to think again and decide, this time, on the interior doors. Namely, which side they will open to, left or right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out accidentally outside the door when the repairs are done fully ready. Usually, doors are opened at the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but neither forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.
Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when leaving. Control of the light in a particular room will be entirely in the hands of the person in it. We went to bed, turned off the light, but did not need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is damp and damp areas, such as the bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken outside, since the constant entry of moisture into the switch will lead to its rapid failure.
We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before you begin installing the electrical wiring, you will need to indicate on the diagram the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and distance from the edge of the door.
So, in the end we got two pictures:
- socket layout diagram
- diagram of lamps and switches
The first stage is completed. Based on its results, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.
Stage two, wiring diagram
To begin with, you need to calculate and think through the route of laying the wire in detail. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which installation is planned. Know exactly what finishing and finishing work will be done. What you should be interested in:
Suspended, stretch ceilings
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer?
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. I will explain with a specific example.
Let's say that in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, suspended ceilings are planned. From an electrical point of view, this is simply wonderful. The fact is that now, if electrical installation work is carried out independently, you can save a lot of effort and time, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings occur due to the fact that now it becomes possible to choose a combined method of installing hidden electrical wiring.
We install the wire along the ceiling in a non-flammable corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical grooves.
Look at how many benefits we get using this installation method:
If the electrical wiring is being replaced, hidden, without updating the plaster layer, there is no need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal grooves for laying the wire. This type of preparatory work takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire electrical wiring installation cycle.
There is no need to run wires through the ceiling slab channels. This laying method is used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room to power a chandelier or lamp. We save effort and time, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
We significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, installing it along the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out using the standard installation method, hidden along the walls.
It is highly advisable to try to avoid concrete floors located above windows and doors. The first reason is that ditching them is very problematic. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels run in the floor slabs, since wires for chandeliers and lamps will be laid in them.
Calculate the location of distribution boxes. With the correct quantity and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on the supporting structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we move on to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we obtained in the first stage. We superimpose the diagrams on top of each other and get the overall picture.
Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel of the ceiling slab. In this room there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, where the junction box will be located.
I would not recommend making sockets in a ribbon cable; this will significantly reduce the throughput capacity of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we run the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.
Now, we draw the route for laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.
From switch to box.
All the wires are collected in one place, sketch out the location of the junction box.
Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying the wires of other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the channel of the floor slab to shorten the route of the wire to one of the sockets. We pass the wires through the channel of the stove, thereby saving time and wire.
