home Plot

Homemade guide bar for a circular saw. Do-it-yourself movable carriage for a circular saw Do-it-yourself movable carriage

A do-it-yourself circular saw carriage is often made by novice craftsmen and specialists. This element is an indispensable tool in the workshop. With its help, you can quickly and safely make precise cutting of the workpiece, eliminating the possibility of kickback.

If you are making a carriage for a circular table with your own hands, then you need to select the size of the base of the slide; their parameters must be equal to the dimensions of the circular table. For stops, one of which is located at the back, the other at the front, it is necessary to use wood with straight grains, such as cherry or maple.

The material should be moderately dense. It is important to ensure that the stops have perpendicular edges and that their length matches the width of the base. When making a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands, it is important to ensure that the back and front stops have an increase in the place where the saw blade passes.

A band saw will allow you to round the sides of the stops for convenience and to reduce weight. To make the guide strip, it is necessary to use hardwood, as it is quite dense. The size of the bar must be equal to the parameters of the groove in the circular table. Taking into account the dimensions, it will be necessary to make a protective casing, and then round off the near corner.

When making a circular saw carriage with your own hands, it is important to remember that the protective casing should not act as a handle and should not be used while the slide is moving. For assembly, the back stop is attached to the base, and holes must be drilled in the lower part for installing screws.

It is necessary to install a guide bar into the groove of the circular table, which is pre-treated with a layer of glue. The base should be placed perpendicular to the saw blade on the guide bar; the element should be left in this state until completely dry. The next step is to take a few screws to strengthen the guide bar.

Conclusion

You can make a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands, a photo of which you can see in the article. After completing all the above work, you need to rotate the base so that the grooves on the circular table match. If necessary, you can additionally use sandpaper or a scraper to remove excess wood.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or you can use.
Screwdriver.
Grinder (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

Simply put, a perfect carriage for a circular saw in a workshop is a necessary device. The sled allows you to safely and quickly make accurate cutting of the product, eliminating the possibility of the workpiece kicking back. ( Note: For precise cuts, the slots on the circular table must be parallel to the circular blade. If adjustment is necessary, make it before making the circular carriage..)

Manufactured carriage for a circular saw in parts.

The size of the base of the slide (A) corresponds to the size of the circular table in the workshop, Figure 1.
For the back (C) and front stops (B), straight grain, moderately dense wood such as cherry, maple was used. Make sure the stops have absolutely perpendicular edges. The lengths of the stops correspond in size to the width of the base (A).
As shown in Figure 1, the front and back stops (B) and (C) where the saw blade passes through have a significant increase in stop. Use a band saw or jigsaw to round the sides of the stops to reduce weight and make them easier to handle.
To make a guide bar (D), use dense hardwood, the size of the bar (runner) corresponds to the size of the groove in the circular table.
Based on the size of the saw blade, make a protective guard (E), and then round off the near upper corner. ( Warning: The guard is not a handle. Do not use it while the slide is moving!)

ASSEMBLY OF BASE, SUPPORTS AND GUIDE.

Secure the back stop (C) to the base (A). Drill and ream holes in the bottom of the base for flat head screws to adjust the stop later.
Insert a guide bar (slider) (D) coated with a small layer of glue into the groove of the circular table. Place the base (A) perpendicular to the saw blade on the table and on the guide bar (runner) and leave it until the glue is completely dry.
Then take some screws and secure the guide bar first to the outside and then to the inside of the slide, as shown in Photo B.
Turn the base over and check its fit in the grooves on the table, using a scraper or sandpaper if necessary to remove any excess wood on the runner. ( Note: You can identify dense areas using a graphite pencil. Rub the inner edges of the slots on the table with a pencil, and then insert the slide into the guide and move it forward and backward. The graphite mark on the slider will indicate areas that need trimming.)

Carriage for circular saw and installation of front and rear stops:

Installing the disc guard and skid stop block:

A home workshop must have a minimum set of power tools. Among them, one of the main places is occupied by a circular saw. But not every saw in the kit has the necessary set of accessories that provide variety and quality of work. One such device is a circular saw guide. Without it, it is almost impossible to make an accurate, even cut.

An important advantage of working with such a device is the ability to process workpieces of any size. You just need to remember to securely fix the trimming tool, as this ensures a high-quality result and guarantees safety.

A ready-made guide bar can be purchased at the store. This is the simplest and most expensive option. After all, the cost of a branded device is often almost comparable to the price of the circular machine itself. Therefore, it is better to make a guide for a circular saw with your own hands.

A homemade guide bar for a hand-held circular saw from Interskol, Makita, Bosch is functionally no worse than a factory-made one, but several times cheaper. It is easy to assemble at home. There are several options for making homemade tires, using various starting materials:

laminate tire;
building code tire;
rail miter box;
aluminum profile tire.

Below we discuss in detail the manufacturing process of the guide bar for each of the listed options.

Making a laminate tire

This method of making a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands is the easiest to implement; it uses readily available raw materials.

Required:

laminate sheet;
several screws;
A4 piece of paper.

Three blanks are made from the laminate. One of them will serve as the basis for the guide. The other two are cut in the shape of two strips, each about half a meter long. For both, the edges are aligned on one side using a milling cutter. Using self-tapping screws, the strips are attached to each other parallel to the straight edges. The width of the groove between them is checked using an A4 piece of paper, inserting it into the device and scrolling.

The tire is secured to the base of the circular saw using side support fasteners. If the warranty period of the saw has already expired, for greater reliability of fastening you can use the body of the circular saw by making an additional hole in it.

Before starting work, the homemade guide must be extended in front of the circular saw handle. In this case, it is necessary that the guide is covered by the nose of the sole by several centimeters. For perfect compatibility of the edges of the guide strips with the marks on the material, you need to carefully saw off the uneven strips with a laminate cutting disc.

Such a homemade tire is not without its drawback - it reduces the cutting depth by up to one and a half centimeters. But this indicator is not critical, and is more than compensated by the ease and cost of manufacturing.

Ruler from a building code

The next type of guide structure is the ruler from the building code.

For the product you will need:

aluminum building code;
clamps with a removable upper part - two pieces;
two adapters made of polypropylene.

The aluminum rule can be purchased at any hardware store. It must have a longitudinal groove with movable handles. The handles need to be removed and clamps installed in their place. It is better to select clamps with a removable upper part. If you remove it, the clamps are easily attached to the rule gutter. To do this, you will need homemade adapters, which are best made from polypropylene. The adapters should be shaped like the letter T; they can be machined to milling machine, if it is not there, cut it out with any available tool. Holes are drilled in the legs of the adapters to attach them to the clamps with screws. The adapters are then secured in the gutter.

The guide is laid with the groove down on the material being processed and fixed to it with clamps. As a result, all protruding elements of the device are located below and do not interfere with the saw’s operation.

Working with such a guide ruler is limited only by the length of the rule from which it is made. Its length is selected depending on the size of the material being processed.

External carriage on bearings

To make your work easier and get a better result, you can use a self-made circular saw carriage with bearings. By using a carriage, you will not need to worry about the tightness of manually pressing the saw to the workpiece, thereby greatly increasing its permissible width.

To make the carriage you will need metal plates and a corner. The cutting width is adjusted using wing clamps, which are installed in movable grooves on top of the carriage. The carriage is mounted on an aluminum profile, the configuration of which must ensure the fastening of a C-shaped clamp inside the guides. The saw foot is attached to the carriage on one of its sides.

A tire of this design allows cutting large workpieces. Thanks to the use of bearings, feeding is easy and smooth. This is done using a guide rod or hands.

Using a rail miter box

The use of a rail miter box is advisable if you need to quickly and efficiently process a large number of boards Used in production:

two identical metal corners;
Chipboard or plywood sheet at least 1.5 cm thick for the base;
four pairs of bolts.

Metal corners are installed on a plywood base. The corners are fastened with bolts - which act as studs - at the corners of the base. The corners are placed on the same plane strictly parallel to each other. This is necessary so that the circular saw slides freely along the rail during operation and does not jam or slide off it. With the help of studs, the fixing height of the corners is set, which is necessary for the free movement of the processed material between the base and the rails. In this case, the edge of the cutting circle should not be too high from the base, while at the same time eliminating the possibility of damage to it.

To make the saw glide easier, fluoroplastic strips are glued to the corners or a frame with wheels is made for it, which is preferable.

The source material is cut into workpieces using a rip fence for a circular saw during operation. You can easily make it with your own hands from a wooden plank or a metal corner, securing it to a workbench with clamps.

Having made the markings on the workbench, the tire is set at the required distance from the stop and, resting the end of the board against it, the workpiece is cut off.

If it is necessary to cut the workpiece at an angle, it is fixed using a stop made of a pair of screws screwed into the base, and the angular inclination of the cut is set using a protractor.

Aluminum profile or rail tire

You will need:

two pieces of aluminum profile;
two pieces of plywood of different thicknesses;
screws and self-tapping screws with flat heads;
M3 nuts.

First, a section of a larger cross-section profile is attached with screws to a piece of thin plywood sheet. Strips of thick plywood are screwed onto its sides with self-tapping screws, the excess of which is cut to width.

Next, the saw is prepared for work. To do this, you need to place a profile with a smaller cross-section in a large profile. It is necessary to ensure that it moves freely and is not blocked by the bolt heads. Then it is attached with wing screws to the sole of the circular saw parallel to the saw blade. Both profiles should be shaped like the letter P. The saw is fixed to the bar, which is applied with an edge to the workpiece markings and is fixed using clamps. The mechanism is ready for operation.

This guide has easy feeding, smooth running and greater cutting accuracy, which is its advantage, despite the relative complexity of manufacturing.

The described designs of homemade guide rails for circular saws have become the most widespread. Obviously, there are other options for such devices that can be made at home. At the same time, they will cost much less than those made at the factory, and are not inferior to them in efficiency. In addition, they can be used when working not only with a circular saw, but also with a hand cutter and jigsaw.

DIY caretaker. Manufacturing instructions

The moving part of stationary household or industrial tools is called a carriage. In the case of circular saws, it helps to secure a small workpiece and get a flat cut on it at an angle of 90 degrees or any other. Independent carriage manufacturing. simple task. In addition, it is considered what will be necessary in the work, and what is the correct sequence of actions, so that a DIY circular carriage will make you happy and not upset.

Required Tools

Before making a circular carriage, which will allow you to get a cross or angular cut on small parts with user comfort, you need to stock up on the following tools:

an already assembled table with a circular saw mounted on the inside;
aluminum U-shaped profile;
milling machine;
epoxy adhesive;
two wooden boards, the height of which allows them to be placed inside a metal profile;
a sheet of plywood under the bottom of the carriage;
boards (as restrictions);
saw for cutting unnecessary parts of the product;
self-tapping screws for fasteners;
Nuts or other small items that will be temporarily placed in a fixed profile.

This is a list of the basic materials and tools you will need to create a standard design that makes a square cut. To cut at a 30 or 45 degree angle, you will need to cut a "combination square" from a board or plywood. Now. about the sequence of actions.

Step-by-step guide to making a carriage

Before you start, you need to draw two parallel straight lines on the table at the same distance from the cutting blade. They will be placed with aluminum profiles. Let's move on to the main steps.

Fastening aluminum profiles

Metal products act as sleds. the carriage slides along them while sawing the workpiece. Marked lines are cut into grooves using a router. Their depth is equal to the width of the profile.

Read also

After removing sawdust and shavings, glue is applied inside the groove, then the profile is cut, pre-cut to the width of the table (machine). To speed up the process, it is recommended to secure the profile from the edge of the table using clamps, after first applying a small strip. When the metal and wood are completely "grabbed", they begin to create a carriage. It will move along the resulting sled.

Circular carriage | Works of the Masters

In that video Kirill Shvalev. the author of the Dobry Stolyar channel will show you how to make carriage.

Making a carriage for a sawing table | Do-it-yourself device for a circular saw

I'll show you how to do it useful device for sawing table. carriage for cross cutting. Prisp.

Making the carriage

Take the nuts and place them in the profile. This is necessary in order to place the grilles in the profile and glue them to the plywood. After making sure that the rods move freely inside the profile, lay them out with glue and attach a sheet of plywood. Place a weight on top so that it applies even pressure to the joint between the sheet and the rods. Wait until it is completely dry.

Secure the guides with screws. Every 10-15 cm; the amount is determined by the width of the carriage. It is important that their length is sufficient for a strong connection between the rods and slabs, but not through them.

The main part of the carriage is ready. Now make sure that the product moves freely inside the profile.

Installation of carriage walls

Two pieces of the same size are cut from plywood or boards that will become the walls of the product (cork). The back wall is screwed tightly to the base of the carriage, the front panel is only one after the other. For ease of operation, clamps are again used.

The user must ensure that both walls are installed parallel. After this, the front wall is also fixed with self-tapping screws. Then the carriage with stops is placed in the grooves and the ease of its movement is checked. You can then turn on the circular saw and make cuts into the base and walls.

Read also

The moving part of stationary household or residential tools is called a carriage. For which the design with circular saws is intended, it helps to fix a small workpiece and get an even cut at an angle of 9...

The moving part of stationary household or residential tools is called a carriage. If you use circular saws, it helps to fix a small workpiece and get an even cut at an angle on its surface...

The best video The best video Parallel stop for a circular saw on your own About Video: Uploaded by Roman Baikov Search Roman Baikov 1 year ago The video shows a homemade stop with an eccentric clamp and a ruler, and a homemade sawing...

A carriage for a circular table yourself: manufacturing and assemblyVideo: Circular table A carriage for a circular table is often made independently by novice craftsmen and specialists. This element is an indispensable tool in the workshop. With his help...

A circular saw is perhaps one of the most necessary and the right tools for a master engaged in personal housing construction or building his own house. In this case, the craftsmen are probably interested in how to make a circular saw at home...

Now you need to make sure that the cut is made at an angle of exactly 90 degrees. To do this, take an arbitrary workpiece placed in the carriage with emphasis on the back wall, the saw will start, the cut will be made. With gon, it becomes obvious whether the job was done correctly or whether there were inaccuracies.

Creating a “combined area”

The fulfillment of these two points gives a crew that cuts wooden blanks strictly at right angles. What if I need an angle of 30, 45 degrees? For this there is a so-called combined square.

Its foundation. a wooden blank, the dimensions of which allow it to be freely placed between the front and rear walls of the carriage. The square is divided vertically into two halves. Additionally, the top right corner (less than 45 degrees, for example) and the top left corner (less than 30 degrees) are cut off.

Now, by installing the square with screws or glue on the front or back wall, you can change the angle of cutting the workpieces. The carriage has become more functional.

Obviously, making a carriage with your own hands does not involve impossible tasks, and even a beginner can cope with the job.

Listed below are some nuances of work, knowledge of which will help you avoid mistakes.

It is advisable to attach a stopper to the rear wall, limiting the movement of the carriage and eliminating the possibility of injury. To do this, a small part is cut out of the rod and fixed all the way outside in the place where. If the user jumps while working, this element takes over the rotating disk.

For smoother movement of the carriage and lower wear rate of the slide, it is recommended to lubricate the inside of the profile with wax.
Be sure to trim any protruding elements of the rods so that they do not interfere with the work. Their length is equal to the width of the base.
When manufacturing, make sure that the disk protrudes above it to a height sufficient for cutting concrete blanks.
As you go through the cut-through of the product, remember. its width should be slightly wider than the thickness of the disk, so that the latter can pass through it freely.

That's all there is to know about making a homemade circular cart. It is important to remember that this is an unforgiving tool, so take into account all the nuances regarding your own safety.

Useful video

The video talks about making a cart for a homemade circular.

Post Views: 0