Clematis has light green leaves. Why do clematis leaves turn yellow? Why do clematis leaves turn yellow: what to do
Clematis turned yellow - how to cure? Read why the lower leaves of clematis turn yellow, what should I do to restore the plant?
Clematis lower leaves turning yellow
Clematis does not fit the place
If clematis suddenly began to turn yellow, it is likely that the root system has responded to a combination of selected care conditions. What to do? Move clematis to a comfortable place where lighting conditions, temperature indicators, air humidity would be organically combined with watering and top dressing.
Fungal whitening
A waterlogged root system is affected by a fungus. Rot can be non-infectious in nature, but also bring a lot of trouble. More often, diseases appear in early spring, or after the transition to winter.
How to treat:
- Bordeaux liquid.
- Fungicides.
- Transfer.
It is imperative to carry out a transplant so that it is possible to inspect and process the root system. It is necessary to cut off all damaged roots, sprinkling the wounds with fungicide powder. In the new soil mixture, try not to overmoisten the plant. If the fungus has spread to clematis leaves, then cut off the affected lower areas, burn them, and disinfect the wounds in the same way.
How to process : copper-containing preparations according to the sheet.
Viral diseases
Pests on clematis
- Spider mite.
- Sawfly (larvae).
- Caterpillar.
- Copperhead.
Prevention of the development of diseases
In the future, the state of clematis should be better monitored in order to protect or identify and eliminate the first signs of disease. The plant is not waterlogged: water after watering drain 2 hours after the procedure. Check the soil mixture in the pot every time you are going to water - if it is still wet, then postpone the procedure.
In the spring, gradually increase the temperature without any sudden jumps. Similarly, to lower the temperature by winter - do not transfer to a cool place from heat. Periodically treat with "Fundazol" or other strengthening drug. Water with a solution of ash, treat with microelements, add manganese. The last component stimulates the restoration of the leaf plate.
Landing check soil acidity with acceptable indicators for clematis. . You can change the top layer of earth in a pot several times without transplanting.
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There are quite a few reasons why clematis turns yellow. If such a nuisance happened to the plant, it is first necessary to determine what caused the deterioration of the state of the horticultural crop. Having carefully studied the article, gardeners will be able not only to correctly diagnose, but also take the necessary actions to cure or save a beautiful flower.
Clematis care tips
To grow a healthy clematis bush, you need to know and put into practice the basic rules for caring for a garden vine.
Soil and rooting rules.
Clematis thrives on light to medium dense loosened soils with a neutral pH value, as well as containing a sufficient amount of organic matter. Clay, peaty soil, waterlogged areas are not suitable for growing clematis, the composition of such soils should be adjusted.
Planting holes should be at least half a meter in diameter and deep. Before planting, seedlings are inspected, rotten roots are removed and disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The hole is filled with nutrient soil mixture containing:
- 2-3 buckets of humus;
- 200 g of superphosphate;
- 200 mg of dolomite flour;
- 3 cups wood ash
A clematis seedling is placed in the prepared soil to a depth of 7-12 cm, the soil is mulched. During spring planting, supports are installed next to the sprout. After the lashes grow back, they must be tied up. If rooting is carried out in the fall, the flower is wrapped.
Watering and fertilizing
Clematis needs abundant watering, especially in the first 3 years of active development. It is necessary to ensure that the water moistens the soil up to 50-70 cm deep. But clematis will not survive waterlogging in the same way as drought. This may be one of the reasons why the foliage of the culture turns yellow.
During the growing season, clematis needs constant feeding, which is better to add after watering twice a month. In the spring, saltpeter (2 g / l), mullein at a dilution of 1 to 10 or chicken manure at a dilution of 1 to 15 are used.
During the budding period of clematis, mineral fertilizers are added. In summer, from time to time, flowers are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or boric acid, diluted at a concentration of 2 g per 10 liters of water.
At the end of August, it is useful to use ready-made dressings such as "Autumn" or "Kemira Autumn". In autumn, when digging the soil, superphosphate in granules is added in an amount of up to 50 g / m 2, as well as potassium sulfate or top dressing containing potassium and magnesium. And it is better for clematis lovers to refuse fertilizers containing chlorine salts.
Winter and spring care
For the winter, after pruning, clematis bushes must be covered. To do this, you can cover them with boxes without a bottom, or install a wire frame, and wrap the plants with roofing felt or film on top so as not to restrict air access.
The shelter should be completely removed from the bushes only after the positive temperature has been established. It is best to do this on a cloudy day. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out the first fertilizing with fertilizers containing nitrogen (urea 4 g / l).
Why do clematis leaves turn yellow
Clematis leaves may turn yellow for several reasons:
- improper care;
- lack of useful components;
- fungal diseases;
- viral diseases;
- pest attack.
Each of these causes has characteristic features, they need to be known in order to correctly diagnose, take the necessary measures and try to restore the damaged culture.
Wrong care
The yellowness of clematis foliage is often a response to improper care. To protect the sprouts from scorching sunlight or frost, the bushes are planted in the ground in spring or autumn. In doing so, you should avoid:
- too shaded places;
- open areas blown by the winds;
- heavy soils with acidic pH;
- overdrying and waterlogging of the area with clematis;
- landing thickening.
It is useful to plant marigolds, phloxes or peonies next to clematis bushes. Such a neighborhood, together with soil mulching, prevents overheating of the root system of the plant. For mulching, it is best to use rotted manure with peat or sand and ash, mixed in a ratio of 10: 1, but other materials can be used.
If after watering a hard crust forms on the surface of the earth or the soil clod is strongly compacted, it should be constantly loosened. This contributes to the penetration of moisture and air deep into the soil directly to the developed root system of the vine.
Fertilizer deficiency
If all the requirements for planting and care are met, and the clematis leaves turn yellow and the bush does not look healthy, it's time to check how well the feeding regimes are observed. Mineral fertilizers responsible for the normal development of vines and preventing yellowing of foliage are:
- magnesium;
- iron;
- nitrogen;
- sulfur;
- zinc;
- manganese;
- copper.
Magnesium deficiency first manifests itself in the form of small yellowing spots on the leaves of clematis, which grow. After a while, the tips of the clematis leaves dry and curl. The addition of magnesium sulfate to the soil saves the plant, even if the damage has already begun.
With iron deficiency, the clematis bush begins to turn yellow from top to bottom and a disease called chlorosis develops. Often this happens due to an excess of calcium in the soil or limestone. The introduction of acidifying elements will help to correct the situation: iron chelate or a weak solution of sulfuric acid (2 mg per bucket).
Peat, manure or humus are valuable sources of nitrogen. Without it, the leaves of the vine turn yellow with a reddish tint.
Yellowing of young leaves and spots at the edge of the plates indicate a lack of sulfur, which can be easily replenished by adding calcium sulfate or ammonium as a fertilizer.
Zinc plays an important role in photosynthesis, so a deficiency of this trace element leads to discoloration of clematis leaves. To prevent the bushes from turning yellow, zinc sulfate is added to the soil.
If the foliage turns yellow at the same time, most likely there is not enough manganese in the soil, which will make up for the manganese sulfate. And with an excess of organic fertilizers, a deficiency of copper can form, which will also lead to yellowing and drying out of the greenery of clematis. The situation will be corrected by the addition of copper sulfate to the soil.
Phomopsis wilt
This type of disease is associated with damage to the roots of microscopic fungi belonging to the genus Phomopsis. From the roots, microorganisms migrate to the stem of clematis. The disease is usually detected in May-June by the appearance of yellow-brown spots on the lower leaves of the plant. After a while, they begin to fall off.
The disease is very dangerous for large-flowered clematis varieties, because it leads to the death of the entire bush. The original species tolerate phomopsis wilt much more easily: spots will appear on the leaf plates, but the flower will not die.
Fusarium wilt
Fungi of the genus Fusarium cause Fusarium wilt of the foliage of young and large-flowered vines. Clematis leaves dry from the edge to the center. The green parts of the culture that are above the site of the lesion wither. The spread of the disease, which is expressed in total yellowing and withering of greenery, is facilitated by elevated air temperatures in the middle of summer.
Bushes weakened or damaged during gardening are much more likely to become infected with a fungus than strong healthy clematis bushes. Fusarium usually does not penetrate the root system, settles only on the stems and leaves of the vine.
Diseases of a viral nature
The most dangerous viral disease of clematis is caused by the yellow mosaic virus, which is carried by insect pests. The virus damages plants quite rarely. Its effect on vines is manifested in the form of yellow spots on the foliage, but sometimes the leaf plate turns yellow or completely discolors.
Pests
Most often, a beautiful flower is attacked by the following pests, which can cause yellowing of the leaves:
- nematode worms damage the roots and ground parts of clematis;
- the caterpillars of the final moth eat the leaves of the creeper;
- moth caterpillars appear in summer and damage the green parts of the plant;
- beet aphid settles on the underside of the leaves and sucks out the juices of clematis;
- snails and slugs eat young greens in spring.
What to do if clematis leaves dry
If the gardener has found that the leaves of clematis are turning yellow, the leaves are drying up and has determined the cause of this phenomenon, the next step should be measures aimed at combating the identified problem.
Preventive actions
Even clematis flowers growing on the plots of experienced gardeners are not immune from diseases. However, experts know and recommend preventive actions to prevent the appearance of microorganisms or pests, due to which the leaves turn yellow.
Here are some of them:
- Landing in suitable soil, compliance with watering and fertilizing regimes.
- Timely weeding and mulching of the soil with dry wormwood or mint.
- Periodic inspection of clematis for early detection of yellowing leaves.
- Careful selection of neighbors that favorably affect clematis: marigolds, coriander, parsley, garlic or calendula.
- Watering the soil with foundationazole, diluted with water at a concentration of 2 g / l in spring and autumn.
- Checking and disinfection of seedlings before rooting, destruction of diseased parts of plants.
Conclusion
If an amateur gardener finds on his site that clematis is turning yellow, you should not panic, in most cases the vine can be saved. The main thing is to start acting as early as possible, and then a beautiful plant will surely please you with lush flowering and healthy foliage.
Proper soil care, regular fertilizing and watering, pruning in accordance with the requirements of the species, protection from winter frosts, diseases and pests - this is the maximum care that clematis needs for abundant and long flowering for many years. On loose fertile soils, clematis roots reach a depth of 1 m. In general, the root system of an adult plant develops up to 1 m of soil. Such a powerful plant needs in large numbers nutrients and moisture.
Watering.
In order for the roots to begin to function normally after planting, clematis need weekly abundant watering. And in sunny and dry weather, they are watered after 5 days. In the future, young plants need watering every 7-10 days. To find out if adult plants need moisture, they check the condition of the soil at a depth of 20-30 cm. If the ground is dry, it's time to water the clematis. When watering, the soil is moistened to the depth of the roots. Otherwise, in large-flowered clematis older than 5 years, as a rule, flowers begin to shrink. To prevent this from happening, water must penetrate to a depth of 60-70 cm. But with ordinary irrigation, only part of the water reaches this deep, the rest spreads over the surface of the soil. How to be? This problem has a simple solution. Around the bush, stepping back from it by 30-40 cm, they dig in flush with the ground flower pots. During watering, they are filled with water, which will then gradually penetrate to the roots through the drainage hole in the bottom. This technique contributes to the formation of large flowers even in 7-8-year-old plants.
Soil care.
Clematis do not tolerate overheating and drying out of the soil. It should always be slightly damp and loose. Therefore, after each watering and rain, the soil around the plants is loosened. It is shallow near new plants (2-5 cm), only to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds. A good result is the mulching of the soil, which partially replaces watering and loosening. For clematis, it is best to use semi-rotted manure as a mulch, sprinkling it with peat. When watered or rained, such a mulch retains moisture longer and provides the plant with additional nutrition. In winter, it protects the root system from freezing, especially when there is ice. Thanks to the mulch, many worms appear, which, by making moves in the soil, help to improve its structure.
Top dressing.
Clematis require a lot of nutrients. Firstly, they bloom for a long time and profusely, and secondly, they annually renew almost the entire above-ground vegetative mass. Large-flowered clematis are fed at least twice a month, and small-flowered clematis are given 2-3 top dressings per season, using 10 liters of nutrient solution per 1-2 bush (depending on the size of the plant). During growth, clematis especially need nitrogen. With its shortage, the shoots become short, the leaves become smaller, turn yellow, acquire a reddish tint, and the flowers form small and poorly colored. Due to the fact that clematis shoot growth occurs throughout the entire growing season, nitrogen should always be in the soil, but its greatest amount is required in the spring. For nitrogen top dressing, diluted organic fertilizers are used: slurry (1:10) or bird droppings (1:15), alternating with mineral fertilizers: nitroammophoska, or ammonium nitrate, or urea (15-20 g / 10 l). Phosphorus is another important element required by clematis. Its deficiency causes browning of the leaves, which acquire a purple hue. Shoots and roots develop poorly. Phosphorus is introduced at the main soil dressing in the form of bone meal in September (200 g/mg). But at the same time, you can apply top dressing with an extract from superphosphate (20 g / 10 l of water). Potassium activates the synthesis of organic substances in cells, promotes the flow of water into them. Its lack causes browning of the edges of the leaves, especially old ones. Peduncles and pedicels of buds turn brown and even blacken. The color of the flowers is brighter. In the spring it is best to use potassium nitrate, in August potassium sulfate, diluting 20-30 g in 10 liters of water.
Pruning.
Clematis need pruning for abundant and long flowering, harmonious spatial distribution of shoots, annual renewal of lush vines. The first time the shoots are shortened when planting seedlings. This is very important for the further formation of the aerial part of the plant and the development of its root system. Pruning to the bottom pair of buds encourages tillering and rapid root growth. Twigs that have grown from the lower pair of buds are pinched to increase the number of basal shoots. The need for such a technique is due to the fact that in many large-flowered clematis only one stem grows rapidly in the first year after planting. After pruning, the plant begins to branch and forms a dense bush.
Further pruning depends on which shoots bloom. Based on this, experts divide clematis into 3 groups.
The first group includes plants in which flowering occurs mainly in spring on the shoots of the previous year (large-flowered cultivar groups of Patens, Florida and small-flowered species - alpine, vine-leaved, mountainous, burning, etc.). These vines are grown without pruning, or after flowering they cut off only that part of the shoot where seeds are formed in the flowers. If the bush is very dense, weak shoots are cut to the base so that stronger ones appear next year.
The second group includes clematis, in which flowers develop both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's (Lanuginoza variety group, paniculate clematis, etc.). Their first short flowering occurs in May-June on the shoots of the previous year, and the second, plentiful, from July to autumn on the shoots of the current year. In such clematis, pruning is carried out in two steps. First, in the summer, the faded part of the last year's shoot is cut off, and if the bush is very thick, these shoots are cut to the ground. The growths of the current year are pruned before shelter for the winter. If you want to get early flowering in spring, remove only the faded part of the growth (up to the first true leaf). Such pruning is called combined.
The third group includes plants in which the bulk of the flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year (varietal groups of Zhakman, Vititsella, Integrifolia, clematis virginsky, etc.). They bloom from July to mid-September. The most abundant flowering is observed in late July-August. Pruning clematis of this group is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, all shoots are cut to the ground. And in varieties with partial flowering and on the shoots of last year, pruning is carried out at a height of 40-60 cm.
In addition, varieties that bloom mainly in the upper part of the bush are pinched in May at a height of 1-1.5 m. In the future, this technique leads to an even distribution of flowers. In spring, all clematis must be cut out dead, weak and diseased shoots.
Shelter for the winter.
By autumn, clematis shoots ripen and harden. Therefore, with a correct (deep) landing and good care they hibernate normally even with light shelter. In varieties that form flowers on last year's shoots, it is necessary to maintain summer growth (1st pruning group). To get rid of fungal diseases, only leaves and dead parts of old or diseased vines are removed. Before the soil freezes, the base of the bush is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or 2% iron vitriol and spudded with sand to a height of 15 cm, to which ash is added (250 g per bucket of sand). The shoots are sprayed with the same composition and bent down, spruce branches are placed under them and on top. In areas where winter thaws are possible, dry peat or sawdust is poured on top of spruce branches and covered with plastic wrap. It is possible to put wooden slats near the bent, rolled-up shoots, and cover with a film on top. It is important that there is an air gap. They also cover clematis belonging to the 2nd pruning group.
Clematis, which form calyxes on the shoots of the current year (3rd pruning group), after the onset of stable frosts, are spudded with sand to a height of 10-15 cm. At the same height, the shoots are cut. Then they fall asleep with a layer of 20-25 cm of peat, rotted manure or sawdust (1-2 buckets per plant) and cover with a film. Or they simply fall asleep with sand and ash, and then with snow. With such a shelter under the snow cover, clematis winter well. They can endure frosts up to 40 ° C without loss, thaws, which are replaced by a sharp cold snap, are more dangerous for them. In spring, plants are released from shelter gradually. First remove the plastic film, then the substrate layer. Lapnik, part of the peat (or sand with ash) is left until the danger of night frost has passed. Then the shoots are carefully lifted, evenly distributing them on the supports. The soil above the tillering center is carefully leveled, leaving a layer of 5-8 cm.
Disease protection.
Clematis most often suffer from diseases caused by fungi, viral diseases are rarely affected. But if this happens, the diseased plant must be destroyed, since they have not yet learned how to deal with viruses.
Fusarium wilt (fusarium).
In diseased clematis, the lower parts of the vines turn black and are damaged. The bark looks swollen there. Under it, the mycelium of the fungus develops from spores, which clogs the conducting vessels, the metabolism is disturbed, and the shoots wither. Later, the bark exfoliates and dies. Favorable conditions for the development of fusarium are elevated air temperature and high humidity.
Protection methods. In early spring and autumn (after pruning), the plants are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or treated with a suspension of copper oxychloride: in spring and autumn 0.5%, in summer 0.3%. Before planting, green cuttings and annual seedlings are kept in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole for 15 minutes. In order to prevent clematis, they are watered only with warm water, trying to ensure that the liquid does not get on the shoots. Daylilies, marigolds, marigolds are planted nearby, which protect the vines from Fusarium.
There is another way. In the second half of summer, when the stems of clematis are completely woody, the base of the vine and shoots up to a height of 30 cm are sprayed with a weak solution of slaked lime (3-4 tablespoons per bucket of water). In this case, you need to ensure that the lime covers the entire lower part of the plant with a thin layer.
Leaf spots.
On the affected leaves, brown spots first appear, then the tissue under them collapses and holes form. The disease of the basal part of the stem can lead to the death of the plant. During the summer, pathogens are spread by air currents, raindrops, and insects. The development of spots is facilitated by sharp fluctuations in temperature, excessive soil moisture. The peak of the disease is in September-October.
Protection methods. To destroy pathogens in early spring and autumn, clematis is sprayed with a suspension of copper oxychloride (0.3-0.5%), or Bordeaux liquid (1%), or a solution of copper sulfate (30 g per 10 l of water).
With a small lesion, diseased leaves and shoots are cut and destroyed. Get rid of slugs and snails, carriers of pathogens.
Powdery mildew.
It affects leaves, young shoots, flowers. They are covered with a white powdery coating, under which the tissues become dark and die off. Damaged parts of the plant are deformed, growth and flowering stop. The spread of powdery mildew is facilitated by high humidity at moderate temperatures.
Protection methods. At the first signs of the disease, the plants are sprayed with a 0.2% soap-copper solution (20-30 g of copper sulfate, 200-300 g of green soap per 10 liters of water). In autumn, all diseased shoots and leaves in which pathogens overwinter are removed. For prevention, at the beginning of leaf blooming, clematis is sprayed with foundationazole (0.2%), or colloidal sulfur (1%), or soda ash with soap (40 g of soda and soap per 10 liters of water).
Gray rot.
This fungal disease often affects clematis in rainy and cool summers. Brown spots appear on the leaves, covered with a gray fluffy coating. It develops pathogens that look like black dots. Healthy leaves become infected from diseased ones. Spores of the fungus are carried by the wind, stored on the plant remains of diseased plants. The spread of the disease is facilitated by stagnant air, thickened plantings and an excessive abundance of nitrogen.
Protection methods. In early spring and autumn, the plants are sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulphate, in the summer with a 0.3% suspension of copper oxychloride.
Rust.
In spring, orange pads appear on the leaves, shoots and petioles of affected plants. Then the shoots are deformed, and the leaves wither.
Protection methods. To destroy the rust pathogen, spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid or 1% colloidal sulfur is carried out.
Pest control.
Harmful insects annoy clematis less than diseases. They mainly damage plants in greenhouses and greenhouses. IN open ground more common in the south, much less common in the middle lane.
Garden green bug. This very small insect (3-4 mm long) lives on the underside of young leaves. Yellowish dots appear at the injection sites that the bugs make, and the leaf tissue gradually dies off. The activity of these pests begins in May and continues until August, when the females lay their eggs in holes made at the ends of the shoots. As a result, the tops are deformed, the shoots stop growing, flowering is delayed or completely stops. Fighting means. The pest is destroyed by spraying the plants with Fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water).
Snails and slugs. All above-ground organs of the plant are damaged - buds, shoots, leaves, flowers. They are also dangerous because they are carriers of diseases. Fighting means. To prevent the reproduction of slugs, weeds are destroyed. Snails and slugs are caught by laying traps on the ground made of pieces of roofing paper, boards or other materials, under which pests hide during the day.
Mice, rats. These rodents often damage clematis in winter. Shoots and roots of plants suffer from them. Fighting means. Shelter for the winter with needles partially helps protect plants from rodents. But for greater reliability, poisoned baits are left next to winterized clematis. They take small boxes, make holes in them for the passage of mice and lay the cereal or flour, mixing the storm with the preparation. Cover the box with a lid so that pets do not accidentally get poisoned. Several of these traps are placed near clematis. Once a month, the bait is replaced with a fresh one.
Helpful Hints.
Plant low perennial flowers at the base of the clematis. By doing this, you will not only create a spectacular flower arrangement, but also protect the soil from overheating.
Sometimes clematis flowers suddenly turn green. If the sepals are deformed at the same time, this is a sign of a viral disease. But more often this phenomenon is caused by a lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. It is necessary to feed the plants with a complex mineral fertilizer containing these elements (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), and green flowers will no longer appear.
If you do not know which group of varieties the clematis growing in your garden belong to, cut them to a height of 40-60 cm before sheltering for the winter.
In order for the working solutions of drugs used to treat diseases to better stick to the leaves, add grated laundry soap (40 g per bucket of water) to them.
Clematis are in bloom and everything seems to be fine, but if you look closely, one of the leaves is covered with rusty spots, the other has a white coating, and the third has dried out individual shoots. Lyubov Treivas, a well-known phytopathologist, tells about diseases and pests of clematis.
Clematis diseases
wilting clematis
All clematis have the same feature: these plants have a well-developed root system that extends into deep soil horizons. The most dangerous fungal disease of clematis is also associated with this feature - wilting, in which shoots quickly lose turgor, wither and dry. There are several causative agents of this disease, and they all live in the soil, where they infect the root system.Wilting symptoms are often visible already in early spring after a mild winter with frequent thaws. The spread of root rot and further wilting is facilitated by stagnant water, increased soil acidity and shading of plantings.
There is only one secret of protection: comply with all agrotechnical requirements. When wilting appears, it is necessary to clean the plants from the affected parts and shed the plants under the root 2-3 times with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole (benlat). In the future, to prevent the disease, every spring and autumn it is necessary to shed the plants with a solution of foundationazole. This drug effectively slows down the development of fungal pathogens, but does not completely cure. Severely affected, rotten clematis are removed with a clod of earth and the soil must be drunk with a solution of foundationol.
Gray rot, powdery mildew and rust are a group of diseases that manifest as raids. Gray rot affects clematis in rainy years and appears as brown, rapidly growing spots on leaves and shoots. At high air humidity, brown necrosis is covered with gray fluffy mycelium and spores, which are carried by the wind and re-infect neighboring leaves. And since the botrytis mushroom is omnivorous, gray rot from clematis spreads to other flowering plants.
To prevent the appearance of gray rot, they collect plant debris, cut off the affected leaves and shoots, spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of azocene or foundationol. A positive effect is given by carrying out the straits of plants in spring and autumn with foundationazole.
Powdery mildew is caused by pathogenic fungi from several genera and manifests itself from mid-summer with a white powdery coating on almost all above-ground parts, but physiologically young tissues are primarily affected - young shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. Under the influence of the mycelium, the tissues turn brown, dry out, the organs are deformed, the growth and flowering of plants stop.
Plaque on clematis leaves
Clematis rust is manifested by orange sporulation pads on shoots, petioles and leaves since spring. With a strong spread, the shoots of plants are deformed, and the leaves turn brown and dry. The fungus-causative agent hibernates on the shoots or on the wheatgrass weed and in the spring again infects the growing shoots. Premature drying of the vegetative parts greatly weakens the plant and affects its overwintering.
At the first signs of rust, spraying is carried out with a 1-2% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (polych, oxych, copper oxychloride).
Often closer to autumn, dark gray is noticeable on weakened plants. necrosis of leaves and shoots covered with a velvety olive coating. Physiologically old parts are affected mainly. Causes necrosis fungus saprotroph of the genus Alternaria, which naturally develops on dying tissues. But with a strong spread, the fungus also passes to young tissues, causing premature drying of plants. Any copper-containing preparations are effective against alternariosis.
leaf spot
On necrotic tissue, black fruiting bodies ripen in autumn - pycnidia, in which the fungus overwinters. With cylindrosporiosis (causative agent cylindrosporium), characteristic ocher-yellow spots appear on the leaves, limited by leaf veins. A fungus from the genus Septoria causes septoria leaves, manifested by rounded light gray spots with a thin reddish border. By autumn, black dotted pycnidia ripen along dying tissues.
Loss of necrotic tissue is observed in all spotting, so spotting cannot be distinguished by this feature. Spotting fungi cause damage to leaf blades, which leads to disruption of all processes associated with photosynthesis, and inevitably leads to a general weakening of plants. The appearance of spots should not be considered only as a loss of decorativeness of flowering clematis. This is the beginning of general oppression, a decrease in buds, the initiation and maturation of hibernating organs.
Viral disease of clematis
Viral diseases rare on clematis. Some varieties may develop a yellow mosaic of leaves, which is transmitted by sucking pests. There are no effective drugs for the treatment of this disease, so all diseased plants are recommended to be culled.
To prevent the spread of a viral infection, plants that are often affected themselves should not be planted next to clematis - aquilegia, delphinium, host, peony, phlox, sweet pea, bulbous.
Pests
Sometimes nematodes also spread on clematis, i.e. damage by phytohelminths. There is a gall nematode - meloidogyna, which forms brown swellings-galls on the roots, which eventually cause root rot, and then the death of the plants themselves. Leaf nematodes are also common, living in leaf blades and causing various necrosis.
When digging up rotten plants, be sure to look at the root system and if galls are present, do not plant new clematis plants in this place for several years.
And remember that the appearance of both diseases and numerous pests are the first signs of a violation of clematis cultivation or the use of a variety that is not suitable for your conditions. It is from this that oppression of development and a decrease in immunity to diseases begin in clematis. A few tricks for abundant flowering clematis
To make these vines bloom profusely and for a long time, experienced flower growers use a few tricks.
Two meals a day
During the summer clematis they build up a huge mass of shoots, leaves, and then flowers, so nutrition for them comes first. Feed these vines twice a month, in small portions. And the fertilizer must be in liquid form!
The first top dressing is given in the spring, when shoots begin to grow. The best fertilizers at this time are ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:15). Consumption rate - 1 bucket per plant.
In the future, mineral and organic fertilizers alternate. And when the buds appear, they give both mineral and organic at once.
But the largest Russian clematis specialist, breeder, author of many varieties, Margarita Beskaravainaya, in her book Clematis - Creepers of the Future, offers another top dressing - lime milk (200-300 g of garden lime per 10 liters of water). Clematis love this "elixir" very much, but it can only be used on acidic soils!
Useful dope
Clematis are rarely affected by diseases and pests, so it makes no sense to treat them with herbicides and other deadly chemicals.
But these vines love growth stimulants. Therefore, experienced flower growers spray them with epin-extra or zircon several times over the summer - they protect plants from stress, help them endure spring frosts and activate the growth of shoots from lateral buds. This means that clematis bushes will grow more magnificently and bloom more abundantly.
Ideal remedy
Landscape designers are well aware that clematis pair perfectly with roses. Therefore, many advanced flower growers combine business with pleasure - they plant climbing roses and clematis mixed at the supports.
This combination of vines not only decorates the garden, but greatly facilitates their care and saves time, which is always so lacking.
Before fertilizing clematis, it is necessary to remove winter shelter from them. Do this as soon as the snow melts. If tightened, young shoots will begin to grow right under the protection and will be crooked, thin, woven into a ball and will probably break when the bush opens. But the first shoots are the most valuable - they bloom earlier!
