Schemes of long-burning solid fuel boilers. Better than a solid fuel boiler can only be .... Making the base of the boiler - a barrel in a barrel

The main weakness of any solid fuel boiler for a summer residence is that fuel in the form of firewood, coal, pellets, etc. must be thrown up frequently. And this creates a lot of inconvenience. Fortunately, for many owners of private country houses, a solid fuel boiler is deprived of this disadvantage. long burning.

It makes it possible to loading firewood once every 30 hours, and coal once every 5 days. True, such an indicator for the vast majority of wood-fired boilers is average, because today there are solid fuel boilers with ultra-long burning. They are loaded with fuel once a month. Of course, their design is very complex and it is almost impossible to make them with your own hands. However, on firewood, the owner of a summer house or a country private house can do it without much difficulty.

Device

According to the simplest drawing, the device of a solid fuel boiler is as follows:

1. Body in the form of a cylinder. It is also a combustion chamber.
2. Firewood door.
3. Ash door.
4. Air distributor. It is a large metal circle with a hole in the middle. He presses the firewood with his weight and, as it burns, falls down.
5. Air supply pipe. It is connected to the center of the air distributor. According to the drawing, it always exits through the top of the wood-fired boilers. At the top there is a damper for regulating the air supply.
6. Chimney.
7. Heat exchanger. It can be installed on chimney, and can be made in the form of a water jacket.

As you can see, a standard long-burning wood-burning boiler for a heating system has a simple design. However, not everything is so simple, because when making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to take into account many nuances.

Case features

In order for the cylinder-shaped housing to contribute to high efficiency, the following recommendations must be observed:

1. Height to inside diameter ratio should be between 3:1 and 5:1. In this case, the diameter value should fluctuate within 30-80 cm. If the solid fuel boiler has an inner diameter that is too small, then the air will not be able to react with the fuel properly, since it will be quickly removed through the chimney. The efficiency drops a lot. When the wood-burning boiler has a very large diameter, the central part of the fuel will burn quickly, and the edges slowly. Because of this, a hole will appear in the center, into which the air distributor will sit, and the combustion of firewood will stop.
2. The body wall should be 4-6 mm. This rule applies to those cases when solid fuel boilers are made of structural steel. If heat-resistant steel is used for production, then its optimal thickness is 2.5 mm.

Incorrect wall thickness will have the following consequences:

• if domestic coal-fired boilers have too thin a wall, then heat will quickly pass through it. That is, too much heat will be released through it. As a result, the exhaust gases after passing through the gap between the housing and the air distributor will become colder than 400 ° C, and their combustion will be incomplete. Because of this, the walls of the combustion chamber will begin to become covered with dense soot, and it will form very;
• if the solid fuel boiler has too thick walls, then its thermal inertia will greatly increase. The water in the shirt will start to boil. The situation will not be saved even by blocking the pipe supplying air.

According to different videos and drawings, the best materials to make the case are:

1. industrial purpose. It has walls with the required thickness. It does not need to make a bottom. In addition, the rounded top contributes to better afterburning. flue gases. Solid fuel boilers of long burning from a cylinder have a power equal to 12-15 kW.
2. Large Diameter Pipe. In this case, you do not need to bend a sheet of metal with your own hands. However, it is almost impossible to bend metal 4-6 mm thick at home.

Very often, a wood-fired boiler is made from a pipe with a diameter of 30 cm and a height of 90 cm.

What should be the air distributor

Efficient solid fuel boilers must have an air distributor with the following features:

1. The diameter value is 90% of the inside diameter of the body.
2. The presence of U-shaped profile ribs welded from below (for wide structures) or metal strips that diverge from the center and twist clockwise (for narrow cases). According to many schemes, an asterisk with a radius equal to a quarter of the pipe radius and a hole with a radius equal to a third of the duct radius should be welded onto metal strips. The height of the ribs depends on the diameter of the body. If a wood-burning boiler has a diameter of 60-80 cm, then the height of the ribs should be 10% of the diameter. For a 15 cm hull radius, the fins should be 4 cm high.
3. The bottom of the air supply tube is at the level of the lower points of the ribs.
4. The pancake thickness for cases with a small radius should be large, and for structures with a large radius - small.

According to the diagrams and many videos, solid fuel heating boilers should have a pancake with the following thickness:

• 6-10 mm if the inner diameter (D) is 30 cm;
• 6-8 mm, if long-burning boilers on coal will have a D equal to 40 cm;
• 4-6 mm if D is 60 cm;
• 2.4-4 mm, if long-burning wood-burning boilers will have D = 80 cm;

For intermediate values ​​of D, the thickness of the metal for the air distributor must be calculated as a proportion, taking as a basis the nearest greater of the above values.

Air duct features

To make this element with your own hands, you need to determine its inner diameter and height. The first indicator is determined based on the area of ​​​​the chimney. The calculation formula is: d \u003d (0.5-0.55) * ((4S / π) ^ 0.5). wood boilers with a radius of 15 cm and a height of 90 cm must have a chimney with an area of ​​175 sq. see. The diameter of the hole for the chimney is 15 cm. The air duct for a device with such dimensions must be made from a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm.

As for the height of the tube, which should supply air into the system, it must be greater than the height of the wood-fired boiler. At the same time, it should protrude 15 cm above the collar. The height of the collar may be different. It depends on the operating clearance between the pipe and the collar. The gap must not exceed 2.5mm. The height of the collar is determined as the product of the gap and the number 80. If the double gap is 2 mm (the number divided by 2 is taken into account), then the collar should have a height of 1x80 = 80 mm.

It turns out that the pipe supplying air to the coal-fired boiler should protrude by 8 + 15 = 23 cm. It is worth saying that the collar shown in different videos should always be done. Its presence always improves efficiency. As a result, heating the house with a solid fuel boiler becomes more efficient.

Doors and their dimensions

Homemade solid fuel boilers are most easily equipped with double doors, in the middle of which there is a layer of basalt cardboard or sheet asbestos. The neck should be protruding and rectangular. Thanks to this, you can get rid of the gaps that are sure to form if you make a door with your own hands from one sheet of metal. As noted in the video, such gaps are undesirable, since the wood-burning boiler loses its efficiency, that is, it does not work well.

The bottom of the furnace door of a household appliance for a summer residence or a country private house should be placed at a height equal to the sum of two-thirds of the hull height, the height of the fins of the air distributor and the thickness of the pancake. 3 cm is added to the resulting figure.

The dimensions of the furnace door should be as follows:

1. Height - a third of the height of the body without the thickness of the pancake, the height of the ribs and 2 cm.
2. Width - a quarter of the circumference of the furnace part. For calculations, the outer diameter of the furnace body of the system is taken.

Heating boilers for solid fuels must have an ash door located at the bottom level. It should be high enough. This characteristic should be equal to the sum of the thickness of the pancake, the height of the ribs under it and 10-15 mm. The higher it is, the easier it will be to take out the ashes and unburned parts with your own hands.

Water jacket

As noted in the video, a wood-burning boiler should have a well-centered water jacket. This means that in any place the distance between it and the flame body must be the same. You can achieve this result thanks to the corner. It must be welded to the body, bending it with your own hands in the shape of a circle. Of course the system includes two corners: one at the bottom, the other at the top.

What is the difference between a solid fuel boiler and a gas boiler? Gas burns completely in a small space, but for the combustion of firewood, coal and other solid fuels, special conditions are needed. Due to the fact that gas is becoming more expensive, not to mention electric heating, people are looking for alternatives and, we must pay tribute to Russian ingenuity, they find it. And they not only find, but also share their inventions with others by posting photos, videos and detailed schemes of work. One of these options for making your own hands is presented in our article.

Better than a solid fuel boiler can only be ...

...only solid fuel boiler of long burning. Solid fuel boilers of dozens of different modifications have become very popular, however, they also have one drawback - fuel needs to be loaded every 5-6 hours. And if you are already planning to build a boiler with your own hands, then why not make it once like a long-burning boiler? Fuel and time savings are just a few of the benefits of long-burning boilers.

The principle of such a boiler is that solid fuel does not burn in them, but smolders, which allows you to take the maximum energy and the process itself is very long. It is worth noting that this method of incineration minimizes the amount of waste.

It is quite possible to make a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands and officially use it. You will need drawing, metal and welding machine , it remains only to understand the details of this case. The video instruction will help you better see those moments of work that are not very clear in the description.

Tasks of a solid fuel boiler

A water boiler is not a heating furnace, since it is a continuous unit. With the help of a water circuit, which constantly circulates, the room is heated. Unlike a stove, which is a heat accumulator, which it gives off for a long time after heating, the boiler is forced to heat the circulating water constantly. This means that you need to periodically refill fresh fuel into the furnace or make a structure that will regulate the power on-line. Just such a design we propose to do.

You also need to think about flue gases, which should approach the place of heat exchange at their maximum temperature. Not to mention the fact that the fuel must burn out completely, otherwise the lost energy will result in soot, which you will need to regularly remove. All these factors directly affect the efficiency of the boiler - the main indicator of its efficiency.

Also, do not forget that the boiler needs a separate boiler room or furnace, as required by fire safety standards.

Do-it-yourself long-burning boiler

To get started, you need to study the proposed diagrams and drawings well, write down all the dimensions and understand the principle of operation of the boiler. The main component of the boiler is the furnace, which limits combustion by controlled supply of oxygen, as a result of which it smolders for a long time. This process is much longer than normal burning, due to which the boiler is both economical and user-friendly. Having determined empirically which type of fuel burns how much, you will not need to constantly monitor the process, it is enough to load fuel 2 times a day.

The heat exchanger pipe heats the liquid in the heating system, in order to maintain constant heat in the system, it is necessary to load fuel every 12 hours.

Preparation of materials for work

So, to make a cauldron, which you still see only in the drawing and in your dreams, with your own hands, you need:

As you can see, the main requirement for making a solid fuel do-it-yourself is welding skills. Such skills are not uncommon in our open spaces, because men prefer to do everything with their own hands.

Making the base of the boiler - a barrel in a barrel

Instead of pipes take sheet metal and make from it two large pipes with a diameter of 45 and 50 cm, which are inserted one into the other. Craftsmen take metal barrels, used gas cylinders, pipes and everything that is available in the garage. The main thing is the thickness of the metal, especially the inner pipe, it must be from 3 mm or more, otherwise it will simply burn out from high temperatures.

Next, we need a metal ring with a diameter of 50 cm. It can be cut from a single piece or bent from a corner - depending on what you have. So, we connect two pipes one into the other using this ring by welding.

Now you need to cut a circle for the bottom, with a diameter of 45 mm and weld the bottom of the inner pipe. We got a barrel with a water heating circuit, which is located around it - a “water jacket”. Such a scheme may be more complex than single-circuit boilers, but its efficiency is much higher.

Making holes for the ash pan and firebox

The inner part of the barrel protrudes from below by 20 cm, in the lower part of this protruding segment you need cut rectangle 15 x 8 (16 x 10) for the ash pan hatch. We weld this hatch itself and fasten the hinged door equipped with a valve.

In the upper segment of the outer pipe, we cut out a rectangle for loading firewood (coal) - a firebox. It is necessary to calculate the size of this hole for the size of the logs. We weld the hatch for the loading hole and fasten the door to the hinges, equip it with a valve. So that this door does not lose heat, it is better to make it double, laying asbestos fabric between sheets of metal, and lay the places of contact with the hatch with asbestos cord.

Smoke outlets and water circulation

In the upper part of the outer pipe, you need to cut a small hole for the pipe (follow the diagram) and weld the pipe to let the gases into the smoker. By the way, to flue gas outflow happened properly, the chimney pipe must be exactly vertical for the first 50 cm.

In the upper and lower parts of the outer pipe, 40-45 mm branch pipes must be welded for connection to the heating system, and threads must also be cut. Water, heated between two barrels, exits from one pipe into heating system, the remaining water re-enters the water heating circuit with another pipe.

We check all weld seams with chalk and kerosene, we check the entire system with hydraulic crimping at a pressure of 2 kg/cm². If leaky seams are identified, we carefully work on the errors.

Air distributor

It is necessary to cut a metal circle of diameters a couple of centimeters smaller than the inner pipe of the boiler is 42-43 cm so that he can easily move inside it. In the center of this circle, you need to cut a hole of 6 cm, intended for the pipe. The air distributor pipe is welded into this hole.

At the bottom of this metal circle, you need to weld 4 pieces of a corner (channel) like blades around the air distributor pipe. And on the other side of the circle, you need to attach something like a loop that will raise and lower this structure. It is also necessary to make a damper that will regulate the supply of oxygen to the combustion zone.

Boiler cover

We have to make a cover for the boiler. For this:

1. cut out a metal circle with a diameter of 50 cm,
2. in the center we make a hole of 7-8 cm, into which we insert the air distributor pipe,
3. we insert the distributor into the boiler, the boiler cover must be hermetically welded.

The loop, which was attached to the distributor, must be connected by a cable to the block that raises and lowers the air distributor. Some schemes for making boilers with your own hands suggest making the boiler cover removable, but with a snug fit.

Various heating options country house have their supporters and opponents. There is now a constant and steady rise in the cost of key fuels, pushing consumers towards the least expensive options. The most optimal, affordable for an ordinary resident of our country, is the use of firewood as fuel. At the same time, unlike gas and electricity, which do not require constant attention, solid fuel stoves and boilers must be periodically loaded with new portions, which significantly reduces their ease of use. One of the ways to optimize the use of wood stakes is to equip them with long-burning stoves. We will reveal the technology of self-manufacturing of a long-burning boiler on the pages of this article.

It should be noted that during normal burning of firewood, the frequency of loading new portions of fuel is on average 2-3 hours. To increase this time to 20-30 hours with the same load volumes, it is necessary to obtain not combustion of fuel in the boiler, but its active smoldering by limiting the amount of air entering the combustion zone.

We make a boiler with our own hands

The proposed version of the long-burning boiler is made from a piece of thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of 300 millimeters and a length of about 850. A branch from a pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters is welded in the upper part. Its length does not exceed 40 centimeters.

The whole secret of the shown design of the boiler is in the use of a kind of fuel combustion zone limiter, which compacts the wood and does not allow excess oxygen to participate in the reaction.

The device is a piece of pipe with a diameter of 60 millimeters, the length of which is slightly greater than the total length of the furnace and is equal to 900 millimeters. A steel disk with a diameter of 270 millimeters with an impeller of six arcuate blades is welded to the lower end of the limiter. The internal diameter of the pipe is limited to twenty millimeters in order to limit the amount of air entering the combustion zone.

The upper part of our long-burning furnace is closed with a removable round lid, in which a central hole is made, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the restrictor rod, which allows it to move freely inside the fuel appliance.

In the lower part of the furnace body, it is necessary to make a small rectangular hole equipped with an opening door. It is used to periodically remove the combustion products of fuel. It should be noted that due to the low burning rate, firewood burns more completely, which leads to a significant reduction in the formation of ash in the combustion chamber of the boiler, as well as soot in the furnace itself and the chimney.

The heat generated during the combustion of fuel can be directed to heat the liquid coolant that fills the heating system of the house. There are several options for transferring heat from smoldering fuel. The first, easier to implement, is the creation of a water jacket around the entire combustion zone. This design can be compared to a thermos, inside of which there is fuel, and a coolant circulates between the inner and outer walls.

The second option involves the supply of liquid directly into the piston, which presses the firewood during the operation of the furnace. This design is technically quite difficult to implement and operate. The figure below shows the heat exchanger of a bath stove, which does not have movable structural elements. Therefore, it is quite acceptable to place it directly in the firewood burning zone.

Pipelines are connected to the tank, through which water is supplied and discharged.

In principle, the operation of a home-made long-burning boiler is as follows.

A batch of firewood laid through a large diameter loading opening located above the middle of the furnace body is ignited in its upper part. Directly above the fuel is a limiter resting on the firewood with a conical shank. The value of this part plays a major role in regulating the volume of the direct combustion zone. The sliding telescopic tube, in the product described by us, is replaced by a single rod of increased length. As the wood burns towards the boiler and the wood is lowered, the air supply limiter gradually lowers into the lower part of the stove. It, depending on the size of the lowering of the rod, can play the role of a signaling device for reloading the next batch of fuel. As the latter, not only firewood can be used, but also coal, briquetted peat, and also becoming increasingly popular in Lately pellets.

For more complete information on the manufacture of elements of the described type of solid fuel boilers with our own hands, we bring to the attention of home craftsmen a drawing of the details of a long-burning furnace.

Click on the picture to enlarge

It shows in more detail the main overall and mounting dimensions of not only the boiler body, but also other parts. To facilitate the idea of ​​the shape and location of some structural elements, several sections and sections are included in the drawing.

described by us homemade construction long-burning solid fuel boiler can be widely used not only by owners of private houses, but also by flower growers and vegetable growers. Its use can make it possible to obtain practically all year round high yields of flowers and vegetables in heated greenhouses. At the same time, unlike greenhouses heated by electricity or gas, the cost of products grown using solid fuel boilers will be significantly reduced. In the case of installing greenhouses in the immediate vicinity of a residential building, it is possible to connect it to the general house heating system.

Now let's see the process of laying firewood and lighting up such a stove.

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