home Repair

Do I need to putty the walls before painting? Rules for plastering walls for painting. How to prepare a surface for putty

Step-by-step instruction on leveling walls using putty, a description of the types of mixtures, their differences and scope, as well as a short overview of equipment for finishing sanding later in the article.

All about putty

Putty is a special construction material for leveling walls for subsequent finishing - painting or applying wallpaper. All putties, regardless of type, contain glue with mineral fillers.

In fact, this is a more modern type of plaster, which has a fine fraction, which allows you to achieve a smooth surface. Also, the putty has a light color, not showing through even through thin layers of paint, which allows you to achieve the most aesthetic result.

Putty and putty are the same thing. Both of these names are correct and can be used when writing.

Leveling walls for putty

Leveling the walls for putty is done if the surface deviates from the vertical by more than 4 cm, but experienced craftsmen advise not to apply the mixture in a layer thicker than one, since due to the fine fraction, the following points are observed when applied thickly:

the composition may leak;
it is difficult to level the soft mass on a vertical surface;
The work is expensive.

Therefore, before applying putty, the walls are usually leveled with plaster or drywall, and the mixture is used at the last moment before the finishing coat.

Important: when leveling walls with plasterboard, the seams between the sheets and the heads of the screws are covered with plaster to prevent cracks.

Which putty to choose: types for each stage

Currently, there are quite a lot of putties, differing in composition and scope of application:

Oil-based drying oil contains chalk and catalysts that stimulate drying for leveling floors, doors, window sills, window frames, and other surfaces exposed to water before painting. It is distinguished by significant moisture resistance, but takes a long time to dry.
Adhesive on drying oil has higher strength.
Oil-adhesive with acrylates and plasticizers is elastic.
Polyester mainly for metal processing.
Latex is an analogue of oil-adhesive, only for interior work.
Gypsum is white in color and is used for finishing in dry rooms.
Putty can be used to fill cracks, baseboards, and with a more liquid dilution, whitewash. Some sites indicate that tiles can be glued to putty, but this should not be done.
Epoxy is most often used for wood processing, but there are varieties for other surfaces.
Acrylic can be universal and façade. Universal is the most popular mixture for interior finishing (with the exception of metal processing). The facade is resistant to atmospheric influences and moisture, and therefore is excellent for outdoor work when finishing any surfaces except metal.
PVA-based putty has antiseptic properties and prevents the spread of fungus. Used for interior work to level drywall or concrete surfaces, as well as sealing cracks and joining seams.

Each of these varieties can be used on its own, but some masters use several types to achieve the ideal result.

What's the best way to start?

For initial leveling of walls, it is cheaper to use ordinary plaster, but if desired, you can also use acrylic. When leveling the plaster, a starting layer is not needed: the finish is applied immediately after the joints and screws are putty.

Important: before starting leveling, it is necessary to remove old paintwork, lime, falling pieces of plaster or concrete, as well as clean the surface from dust, and then apply at least 2 layers of primer. Otherwise, the putty will fall off after drying.

The best finishing putty

It is difficult to say which finishing putty is the best, since all types of mixtures are intended for different types surfaces, depending on the intensity of use and humidity level. The best option for finishing putty inside dry rooms is a gypsum or acrylic universal mixture. By the way, when using this variety, a topcoat is not required: it is applied immediately as a base and finish at the same time.

Putty for grouting joints

It is possible to use putty instead of a special compound for grouting joints between tiles, but it is highly undesirable, since in this case it will quickly fall off. The same applies to the treatment of joints between sheets of gypsum or fiberboard, which is best done with plaster.

If you still decide to use putty, then you should choose a mixture with the highest elasticity coefficient, for example, based on PVA. For bathrooms, it is also important to take into account high humidity and the risk of fungus formation, therefore the composition must contain special antiseptics and waterproofing components, which is always indicated on the packaging.

How to properly putty with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Any puttying begins with preparing the working surface:

Remove old coating mechanically.
Remove paint that cannot be removed manually using a special remover or a drill with an attachment. If a water-based emulsion was applied, it is first soaked and then washed off with a soap solution. In this case, it is necessary to wipe the walls of the soap itself, as it has strong repulsive properties.
Remove as much as possible all falling off pieces, break off those that may fall off in the near future.
Remove dust with a wet cloth.
Apply 2 or more coats of primer.
Level the walls with plaster, gypsum or boards (depending on the situation), if there is a large deviation from the vertical (according to the instructions, more than 4 centimeters, according to the experience of the craftsmen - one).
Use primer again before applying actual putty.

Starting layer

You can distinguish the starting putty from the finishing putty by its coarse fraction. The work is also simplified if you use a universal mixture that is suitable for both start and finish.

Initial puttying is carried out to eliminate visual defects of the walls, such as cracks, gouges or other irregularities. This may require laying several layers, each of which is applied after the previous one has dried.

Important: the putty must be applied in thin layers up to 5 mm, since its fraction is too fine. Another plus in favor of using plaster for leveling is a significant saving of time and money, because 1 layer of putty dries for at least a day, and before applying the next one, you must prime the surface (by the way, the primer also does not dry immediately).

To ensure that at the end of the work the mixture does not shrink after drying, and therefore does not crack, it is advisable to use a painting mesh that is attached to the wall.

If the deviation of the surface is large, then it is leveled and puttied along the beacons. However, almost no one does this, since it is difficult to imagine how much time and money it will take to apply a few centimeter layer of putty.

After drying, it is necessary to smooth out small irregularities with sandpaper and prime them for further work.

Finishing putty

The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer (up to 2 mm) to the leveled surface to achieve ideal smoothness due to its finest fraction. After drying, the wall is brought to perfection by mechanical sanding with fine-grained sandpaper, and then primed again for painting or wallpaper.

Reinforcement of seams or the entire surface with web

Reinforcement with cobwebs or painting mesh is required. It is carried out in order to avoid peeling of the putty or plaster from the wall, and also to prevent cracks from occurring or the composition falling out of the seams due to shrinkage of the mixture after drying.

The mesh sticks to the surface with a small adhesive layer, and then is simply covered on top. In some cases, it can be further strengthened with a construction stapler.

If it is necessary to putty with plaster, then the web is laid only on the seams between the sheets, but in cases where a starting layer is required, it is applied to the entire surface of the wall.

Grinding: the right technology

Sanding after puttying is done to remove unwanted grain and perfectly align the joints of the mixture.

It is best to carry out sanding by hand using regular fine sandpaper or a special block on which it is attached. In this case, the result will be more ideal, and the risk of accidentally rubbing the hole is minimal.

Grinding should be carried out in good lighting, constantly assessing the result from four sides. What kind of rubbing movements: circular or longitudinal is not so important, but the pressure should be controlled so that pits do not form, otherwise the finishing layer will have to be applied again.

In addition to the sandpaper, a special mesh is sold for grouting putty, which leaves less dust and does not clog longer, which increases its service life.

Final putty “clean” for painting or gluing

Finishing putty “clean” for wallpaper or painting is carried out with a very thin layer of any finishing or universal mixture, depending on the room, followed by sanding. No matter how thin the applied layer is, before and after its application it is necessary to prime the surface well

Wall sanding tools to help with large areas

Special grinding machines have been developed for grinding large areas. In this case, for walls, surface grinders are used, which have a large working surface, and for ceilings, machines with special attachments are used that create a vacuum and thereby stick, which greatly facilitates physical labor.

Based on the principle of operation, they are distinguished:

tape;
vibration;
eccentric;
orbital.

When choosing a model, you need to pay attention to the fact that orbital ones cannot be processed in corners, and tape ones are better suited for removing thick layers.

It is not recommended for non-professionals to use grinders, since when finishing leveling the main thing is not to remove excess.

Important points in work

When applying putty yourself, it is very important to follow the following rules:

It is necessary to putty only in good lighting, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result.
Before and after applying each layer, the surface must be thoroughly primed. It is important to wait until both the putty itself and the primer are completely dry.
It is advisable to putty the entire surface at the same time and dilute the amount of mixture required for work at once, but remember that it hardens quite quickly (depending on the type).
If the mixture is finished, but work needs to be continued, then the already applied layer must be moistened with water at the joint for greater adhesion. When it dries, it is better to use a primer.
When joining, it is worth applying the mixture overlapping.
It is necessary to reinforce with cobwebs, otherwise cracks will appear. The exception is finishing puttying of drywall.
For a large area, you can check whether the layer is even or not using a regular thread, which is pulled diagonally.
After drying, diluting and using the mixture again will not work.

You should also note that dry putty is cheaper, but sets much faster, which is important when planning the scope of work.

When puttying, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the selected mixture depending on the purpose, and carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations. It is also worth using putty only for the final coating of walls before painting or wallpaper, and they must be leveled with plaster. This will significantly save time and money

Useful video

When renovating an apartment, you often have to do painting work.

The finishing mixture should be applied in a layer of 1-2 mm.

Walls must be carefully prepared before painting.
They need to remove the old layer of paint, tiles or wallpaper. The surface must be smoothly plastered. The final stage of preparation is to putty the walls for painting. The work is quite difficult, but anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands can do it.

Walls should be puttyed for painting in stages. You need to be patient as this will take several days. Each layer will need to be thoroughly dried, sanded and primed. Without careful putty it is impossible to paint or paper the walls properly. How to putty walls for painting and why should you do it?
Read also:

How to glue.

How to prepare walls to be painted - read.

Purpose of putty

It is better to apply the rough mixture with two spatulas.

The plaster on the wall is a layer of fairly large particles. You can thoroughly rub the plastered surface. This wall is suitable for wallpapering. If you apply paint to it, in the light it will highlight all the small irregularities that will be clearly visible from the side. The putty mixture includes smaller particles. To level out small depressions and bumps, it is applied in a thin layer to the plaster. For better adhesion to the wall, the plaster layer should be treated with a primer with deep penetrating ability.
Work begins by applying a thin layer of putty using a wide spatula. The thickness of the initial layer can reach several millimeters. This depends on the size of the unevenness, which is usually felt when working with a spatula. You need to allow time for this layer to dry in accordance with the instructions on the material packaging. After drying, the putty is sanded, primed and a finishing layer up to 2 mm thick is applied. Usually this is enough, but sometimes it becomes necessary to apply an additional layer.

In the final form, the walls should resemble a multi-layered cake. The layers are arranged like this:

base made of brick or any other material;

layer of plaster. Its thickness can be 5-50 mm;

base layer of putty. Its usual thickness is up to 3 mm, in some cases it can reach 10 and even 15 mm;

finishing layer of putty. Its thickness is up to 2 mm;

sometimes a superfinish putty is applied. Its layer does not exceed 1 mm.

Fresh plaster on the wall must dry well naturally. This process should not be accelerated by using a fan heater or other heat sources. With such drying, cracks and peeling will certainly appear.

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Main types of putties

A good finishing putty is white. This saves paint.

cement. It is highly resistant to moisture. Recommended for use in kitchens, bathrooms, washrooms and other places with high humidity levels. The mixture dries to a gray color that can show through thin wallpaper or white paint;

plaster. Designed for treating walls in dry residential areas. This is an ideal option for preparing walls for painting in the bedroom and living room. When dry, it leaves a smooth surface white. Cannot be used when working on the outside of a building;

polymer. It contains the most modern high-tech materials. Gives an exceptionally even layer with a smooth surface. The finished solution is very plastic and does not dry out for a long time. Recommended for use as a finishing layer;

oil-glue. This is an outdated type of putty. Does not give High Quality, is used extremely rarely. It is not recommended to putty walls in residential areas.

When choosing putty mixtures, you should pay attention to the manufacturers of the material. The most famous and popular are Rotband and Vetonit (Weber Vetonit). It is usually sold in bags that indicate the expiration date and recommended storage conditions. A regular bag weighs 25 kg. It's enough for the whole apartment. Finishing putty is sold ready-made, packaged in plastic buckets. They hold 3, 5 or 7 kg. This is quite enough for an apartment. Superfinish putty is also sold in buckets weighing about 1.5 kg.

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Some characteristics of putties

Vetonit VH – used in wet and dry areas. The base is cement. Layer thickness – up to 2 mm. 1.2 kg of mixture is consumed per square m of wall area. You need up to 0.36 liters of water, 9 liters for a 25 kg bag. The shelf life of the finished mixture is 3 hours. Dries in 1-2 days. Packaging in bags of 5 and 25 kg;

Vetonit KR+ based on polymer adhesive. Designed for use in dry rooms. The permissible layer thickness is up to 5 mm. Consumption of the finished mixture is 1.2 kg per 1 m². Amount of water – 0.36 l, per bag – 9 l. The working life of the mixture is 24 hours. Dries in a day. Bags of 5 and 25 kg;

Vetonit KR is used in dry rooms. The basis is organic glue. The layer thickness is 1-3 mm with a mixture consumption of 1.2 kg. Water consumption – 0.4 l, per bag – 10 l. Usage period: 24 hours. Dries in a day. Packaged in 5 and 25 kg.

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Puttying process

To work you need:

basic putty;

finishing putty;

superfinish putty;

small spatula 80-100 mm wide;

large spatula 30-40 cm wide;

corner spatula;

fine-grained sandpaper or a special mesh for sanding;

grater for securing the mesh;

universal primer;

paint roller for applying primer.

Preparatory work:

clean the walls from large deposits of plaster;

de-energize the electrical wiring and completely remove switches and sockets;

Apply primer to the wall with a roller or brush and allow it to dry completely.

Prepare putty according to instructions. It dries quite quickly, so you should not dilute more than 5 kg of the mixture. Prepare the working mixture only in clean containers. Using a small spatula, the putty composition is applied to a large spatula, then onto the wall. If there is no experience in such work, then after a few minutes, through trial and error, the novice master will find his own way of tilting the spatula to evenly apply the putty to the surface of the plaster. The main thing is to try to cover all the depressions as evenly as possible.

Using a rule leaned against the wall, the plane of the surface is checked. You can illuminate the rules from the reverse side with a flashlight. It will show all the errors.
possible sagging is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula.

The entire surface needs to be sanded. This can be done more conveniently using a surface grinder. This work generates a lot of dust, so the use of special clothing, safety glasses and a respirator is recommended. After sanding, the wall needs to be vacuumed and primed. The next layer is applied in the same way. The corners are leveled with a corner spatula. After finishing work, all tools and utensils must be thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

It is impossible for a beginner to perform putty work perfectly, but with high quality it is quite accessible to anyone. Scratches from the spatula are repaired with a thin layer of super-finishing putty. When building a new house, professional builders prefer not to bother themselves with such work. For this reason new flat usually requires expensive repairs.

Coloring has always been considered the simplest and affordable option finishing of premises. It was valued for its speed and simplicity. However, it is important to keep a few things in mind before you get started. Paintwork material is not able to hide surface imperfections. This means that the wall must be perfectly flat.

One way to achieve this is to putty the walls before painting. The process is not complicated, but it requires certain knowledge and sequence of work. The good news is that there is a large selection of products for puttying, and the tools are affordable and simple. Let's look at how to do everything correctly and quickly.

Choice of putty

The construction market can provide many varieties of mixtures. According to the scope of use, they are divided into two categories: facade (for external work) and internal. According to functionality and purpose, putty can be starting and finishing.

The starting one, also called the base one, allows you to eliminate all surface imperfections and is used for rough work. However, painting the room is allowed only when the final puttying of the walls has been carried out. The layer is applied on top of the start; it is thinner, more even and beautiful. The finished result will depend on the quality of the finishing coating.

If we consider the composition of the putty, it is divided into 3 main types:

Cement-based composition.
Gypsum-based putty.
Polymer based.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and materials, as well as scope of use. This must be taken into account before choosing wall material for painting. For example, cement compositions are not afraid of moisture, they are strong and reliable. They can be used in the bathroom, kitchen and outside. However, they are not suitable for painting, only for laying tiles.

As for children's rooms, safety and environmental friendliness are important here. Gypsum mixtures are afraid of moisture, so they are not suitable for rooms with high humidity. The best option– use acrylic putty. It is protected from moisture and is suitable for painting. This is a universal composition.

If you need to putty the gypsum board walls, then special attention is paid to the joints and screw caps. They are treated with gypsum mixtures or special grout. Additionally, the joint is treated with serpyanka mesh.

The most famous brands are:

Knauff;
Ceresit;
Rotband;
Fugenfuller.

Polymer materials are those made on the basis of polymer additives: acrylic, latex. Their advantage is that they are sold ready-made; they do not need to be kneaded, which speeds up the work process. The cost of production is higher than gypsum and cement.

Gypsum putty is a good choice for painting. It is inexpensive and has good characteristics. But if the room is damp, then you need to choose polymer compounds. You will have to pay extra, however, the puttying of the walls will not be done in vain.

Important! Gypsum putty is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. Therefore, after purchase, before you putty the walls for painting, you need to store it in a dry place.

Leveling and preparing walls

To get perfectly smooth walls with high-quality painting, you need to carefully prepare the base. The whole process consists of the following steps:

Removing old finishing material from the surface.
Cleaning walls from dust and dirt, eliminating cracks.
Wall putty with starting and finishing composition.
Painting the prepared surface.

Let's start by removing the old layer. It must be completely removed, be it old tiles, wallpaper, plaster or paint. Everything is cleaned off with a spatula. Wallpaper can be moistened with water.

Cracks, depressions and other defects are also eliminated. The cracks are widened and filled with starting putty.

There may be electrical wiring running through the wall. Therefore, when removing the finishing, you need to be careful not to short-circuit the system and get injured.

Preparing walls before puttying includes priming. To do this, you need to clean the walls from dust and dirt, cover the surface of the wall with a primer without leaving any gaps. After treating the surface, you need to wait until it dries.

Why prime the walls? A layer of primer creates a film on the surface, which not only improves adhesion to the surface, but also reduces the consumption of the composition. And if the composition has antiseptic additives, it can prevent the formation of mold and mildew.

Puttying work

You need to understand the difference between plaster and putty. The plaster is coarse-grained and is used to level walls for painting if the differences are quite large. But putty allows you to create an optimal surface for painting. It will be smooth due to the small particles used in the composition. The technology of wall puttying involves applying several layers with a break for each to dry.

When the layer has dried, it needs to be sanded. This allows you to smooth the surface, remove protrusions and tool marks. The work is performed with a grinder or a special grater. The whole process lasts approximately several days.

The main task is to make a perfectly flat surface, without flaws, cracks and protrusions. The quality of the clutch also plays a big role. Usually 3 layers are created: a starting layer and two finishing layers. However, professionals can create more - up to 6 layers.

If the layer is thick, it may crack. To avoid this, you need to use a reinforcing mesh. It is embedded in the putty and does not allow it to crack.

Selecting tools for work

Without the right tools, you won’t be able to finish your walls with plaster yourself. The good news is that they are simple and accessible, low in cost, and even a beginner can work with them. They are as follows:

roller and brushes for work;
construction mixer for mixing mortar;
a set of spatulas (wide, medium and narrow), a fine-grained grater;
rule for controlling the evenness of the base;
mixing container.

The wide one is from 30 to 60 cm wide, it is used to carry out basic work, the medium one is 20–25 cm wide, it is used to process corners, and the narrow one (from 5 to 10 cm) is used to collect the mixture. To fill the corners and make them smooth, use an angle spatula.

Applying starting putty

We will work with starting gypsum putty with additives. The technology for puttingtying walls for painting is as follows:

Using a wide spatula, you need to transfer the mixture to the wall. The thickness of the layer depends on the quality of the surface. All irregularities are hidden, most often 3 to 12 mm is enough. The wider the spatula, the more mixture will be applied and the faster the work will be completed. But, it is difficult for beginners to work with a tool that is too wide.
To save effort and time, further work does not have to be done after the first layer has completely dried. Enough for it to dry and set. In this case, there is no need to apply a primer either.
The surface will dry for about 8 hours, it all depends on the type. After this, you can start sanding using a sanding machine. Alternatively, use coarse sandpaper.

Finishing layer

Finishing the wall requires a lot of effort, as any defects will be obvious. In addition, the thickness of the putty layer is small, only 2 mm. Therefore, the application technology has some differences:

The mortar applied to the wall must be stretched so that a thin layer remains, filling cracks and depressions.
The number of layers depends on the quality of the base layer. Usually 1-2 is enough. If a newbie works, the number increases. You can check the evenness using a flashlight or lamp.
After drying, you need to sand it. Only this time you will need a fine-grained grater. You need to thoroughly wipe down all the walls, leaving no gaps. All that remains is to clean off the dust from the surface of the wall and cover it with a primer.

Now everything is ready to paint the surface. We learned how to properly putty walls for painting. And although at first glance the work may seem simple, it is followed by more than one day of technological process. It begins with the selection of a suitable mixture, the preparatory stage, which includes cleaning and priming the walls, as well as directly with putty. You need to apply a starting and finishing coat. And only when you have achieved a smooth surface, you can proceed to the simplest type of decorative finishing - painting.

You can avoid puttingtying the walls during repairs only if you decide to cover them with decorative materials. wall panels or tiles. Other types of finishing require preliminary finishing leveling, even if the base is made of plasterboard, glass-magnesium sheets and other sheet materials.
It is especially carefully prepared for painting, since this type of decorative finishing can reveal all the flaws made during leveling. Therefore, the question of how to putty walls for painting is far from idle.

If this job were as simple as washing floors, for example, then no one would even think about finding good finishing specialists. But both the process itself and preparation for it involve significant physical effort and require certain knowledge.
Therefore, even if the main repairs are done with your own hands, craftsmen are usually invited for “wet” work.

This is the most correct option if you do not have enough experience. Putty is not the cheapest material, you need quite a lot of it, and it would be a shame if the price you paid for it was lost due to your incompetence and “crookedness.”
But don’t give up if you have no other choice but to putty the walls yourself. We will try to describe this process in as much detail as possible so that you do not have any difficulties when choosing materials and determining the sequence of work. And the video in this article will help you better understand the technology of applying putty.

Preparing the walls for putty

The algorithm for preparatory work depends on the condition of your walls.
Carefully examine their surface:

If the base is uneven, it should be leveled with plaster before puttying;
If there is some old coating on it that does not hold firmly and is crumbling (plaster, paint, varnish, etc.), it will have to be removed;
If there are cracks on the surface, they need to be puttied separately before treating the entire area.

A separate story is walls lined with plasterboard or other sheet materials. Make sure that no self-tapping screw protrudes beyond the plane of the surface by running a clean spatula over the heads. Screw the protruding hardware deeper using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
The next mandatory step, which is required by the instructions, is priming the surface (see Primer for drywall - why is it needed). It is produced in any case, regardless of the material and strength of the base, but the primer is selected in accordance with these factors.
The purpose of the primer is to strengthen crumbling surfaces, protect them from moisture absorption, remove dust, and improve adhesion with the applied putty solution.

Advice. From the right choice The quality of subsequent work depends on the primer. Carefully read the information on the purpose of the compositions on the packaging, take into account not only the material of the walls, but also the climatic conditions in which they will be used.

The primer is applied with a brush or roller; it is also possible to use a spray bottle.
If plastered or concrete walls are primed entirely at once, then plasterboard walls are treated differently. First, only the joints between the sheets are processed, and after they are sealed, the entire surface is treated. But more on that later.
You can start puttingty directly after the primer layer has completely dried.

Choosing putty

Conventionally, putties are divided into two types:

Starter - coarse-grained, intended for the initial leveling of surfaces with small defects - cracks, depressions, etc.
Finishing – fine-grained, intended for final leveling and making the walls smooth.

When deciding how to putty the walls for painting, keep in mind that this is done in at least two layers. Therefore, the first layer can be the starting layer, the second – the finishing layer. The exception, again, is plasterboard walls: after sealing the seams, it is enough to putty them once with the finishing compound.

Note. Each layer is primed again after drying.

There are two types of putty on sale: ready-to-use and a dry mixture that requires dilution with water:

Ready-made formulations are supplied in plastic buckets of various sizes. They have an optimal consistency, do not require time to prepare, are easy to apply, but are more expensive than dry mixtures.
Dry putties are sold in paper bags. To prepare the working solution, you need a special tool - a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment. It is very difficult to manually mix the putty until it is homogeneous.

Take this information into account when choosing a leveling mixture. As for the tools, the set is small: you only need a few spatulas of different widths and a construction float with a sanding mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

We level the walls

If you use a dry mixture, you need to apply it immediately after preparation, since the shelf life of the working solution is no more than an hour. Therefore, you need to knead it as much as you have time to use during this time.
The technology for puttingtying walls for painting is simple, but requires great care and attention. Let's start, however, with a description of the sealing of joints (for gypsum plasterboard or LSU).
So:

After the primer has dried (see Types of construction primers and their area of application), applied to the contact points of adjacent sheets, the seams are coated with putty using a wide spatula;

While the solution is fresh, sickle tape is glued to it along the entire seam. It is pressed into the putty with a narrow spatula and smoothed so that the solution protrudes through the mesh cells;
After this, another layer of putty is applied to the seam, which should completely hide the sickle and level the recess between the sheets created by the factory edges.

At the same time as the joints, the screw heads recessed into the plasterboard are also puttied. This is done literally with one movement of the spatula.

Wait for the seams to dry and sand them with a float. Then prime the entire surface of the walls. Again, wait 3-4 hours (or whatever the primer manufacturer recommends) before starting the main job.
In general, this is a long process precisely because of the need to withstand a technological break between all stages: primer, layers of putty (see Decorative putty as a finishing wall finish). But you cannot neglect it - the quality will suffer.
Puttying itself is done as follows:

Using a small spatula, take a small amount of solution from the container and transfer it with a sliding movement onto a wide working spatula, distributing it evenly over it;
It is brought to the wall at an angle of 20-30 degrees and moved along the surface with uniform pressure diagonally;

The next movement is made in a cross direction;
Having used up the entire portion of putty from the spatula, pick up the next one and continue working so that the solution overlaps the already applied area. To do this, move the spatula towards this area, and not away from it;
Try to make the layer not thick, no more than 2-4 mm, and do not leave grooves on the surface from the edges of the spatula - immediately level them;
Pay special attention to the corners. To make them smooth and straight, use a special corner spatula or secure corner plaster profiles in them before starting work;

Wait for this layer to dry and remove visible blemishes by sanding;
Prime the surface again and apply a final leveling layer of putty, the thickness of which should not exceed 1-2 mm. To do this, make the solution a little more liquid than the first time;

Note. It is enough to putty smooth walls made of sheet materials once after sealing the joints - immediately clean.

The final stage is polishing with backlight. Sand the walls, directing a beam of light at a slight angle to the area being treated. It will help to identify the slightest defects that may not be noticeable on the putty, but will appear after painting.

Before painting, it is advisable to prime the surface again so that the paint does not absorb into the base and adheres well to it.

Conclusion

Now you know how to putty walls for painting with your own hands, but in theory. To do this work efficiently, without defects, it would be a good idea to watch the work of specialists and practice on an inconspicuous section of the wall. We are sure that everything will work out for you, good luck with your repair!

Which putty is best for walls to be painted? The preparation of the walls affects the quality of their finishing. After plastering, quite large particles remain on the surface of the wall, which must be thoroughly wiped off before painting or wallpapering. For final leveling of surfaces, putty is used.

The article will tell you how to do it yourself correctly.

It doesn’t really matter how much it costs to putty walls for painting; all compositions for leveling surfaces are conditionally intended for:

Work indoors.
External works.

In addition, both types of putty are divided into three main groups according to their physical and mechanical properties and method of application:

Starting putty. It has a rough structure consisting of large elements of mineral filler. The material is designed to smooth out large defects on walls and correct existing geometric deviations of surfaces. The layer of starting putty can reach 20 millimeters. The solution has a thicker consistency and is rougher.
Finishing putty. It has a fine-grained structure. After the material has dried, you can get a perfectly flat and very smooth surface. It is applied with starting putty directly onto a previously untreated wall, and is a good base for covering walls with any paint and varnish coatings.
Universal putty. It goes on sale in a ready-to-use form; it has the consistency of a thick, finely dispersed composition on a polymer base, used as a starting and finishing leveling solution.

Advice: When answering the question: what putty to choose for walls for painting, for beginners, preference should be given to a universal mixture that does not require independent preparation, and dries to form a smooth and fairly even surface of good quality.

Depending on the degree of readiness, the types of wall putty for painting are:

Dry. These are special formulations that are prepared immediately before application. Such products are produced in bags and packages.

In order to mix it correctly, the instructions must be strictly followed (see How to dilute putty when doing your own repairs). Advantages of this product:

low price;
good quality of the composition, when used correctly.

Advice: The prepared mixture should be used for a limited time so that it does not have time to lose its properties.

Ready to use. This putty for walls for painting is more convenient to use. It is packaged in a special container; it does not require time for preparation or strict adherence to technology.

The components have the required proportions and are ready for work. The finished solution remains usable for a long time, without changing its characteristics. During breaks in work, close the container tightly with a lid.

Depending on the type of main ingredient taken in their manufacture, the materials can be:

Plaster(see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use). Their advantages:

align well;
do not shrink.

Flaw:

poor resistance to moisture, which limits their use.

Such materials are used in dry rooms, and their use outside the house is not recommended. After drying, the surface becomes white, which is especially important for the bedroom and living room.

Cement. The peculiarity of the material is its high resistance to moisture. But:

the mixtures shrink;
When dry, the walls become gray in color, which will be noticeable through white paint or thin wallpaper.

Polymer. Such solutions allow you to finish walls of the highest quality. This is due to the presence of high-tech modern components in the composition. Its cost is significantly higher than other types of material. They are recommended for finishing walls.

How to putty before painting a wall

You can do the putty yourself or hire specialists. It is necessary to take into account that the cost of puttying walls for painting depends on many factors.

These include:

Dimensions of processed surfaces.
Preliminary preparation of walls.
Number of corners in the room.
The thickness of the irregularities.
Type and complexity of putty.
The number of layers of solution applied.

The cost of putty will be higher for further painting of the room than finishing the walls with wallpaper.

Technology for performing putty in the bathroom before decorative finishing represents the following:

Before plastering walls for painting, it is necessary to inspect them for the presence of fungus and mold and eliminate defects.
Remove old coating. This can be done:

using special solutions;
using sandpaper;
scraper;
grinder with a flexible disk.

Advice: The best way to remove the old coating - use a special diamond grinding system. Wherein old paint can be removed quickly enough, and the wall surface remains undamaged.

If various defects are detected: cracks, irregularities, they are removed. Large protrusions are removed with a sharp, durable spatula or plane. To get rid of cracks, they must first be widened and then cleaned to a solid layer of material.

The prepared depressions are rubbed using a medium or wide spatula. Application of the solution is carried out with sweeping, crosswise movements, with medium pressure on the tool.
Mandatory conditions for using the solution in the bathroom:

its moisture resistance;
the composition must be intended for carrying out internal work.

The best choice for this are putties made on the basis of latex or acrylic (see Acrylic putty - types, features, application).

The material is applied to the wall with an overlap. To obtain an even layer with a thickness of 2 to 4 millimeters, it is necessary to properly maintain the pressure of the tool. Apply the solution in several layers until the surface base is brought into one plane.
When drying walls, it is necessary to exclude the presence of drafts in the room, and if there is a window in the bathroom, direct rays of the sun should not fall on the finished surfaces. Do not direct heat from a fan onto them. The drying period for the compositions is indicated on the instructions supplied with them. On average, 12 hours is enough, but work should be continued no earlier than after 24 hours.
An abrasive jointer is used to remove the deposits formed after the solution has hardened. The flatness of the surface is controlled. To do this, use a flashlight and a rule.

Putty for painting has some features:

After bringing the surface to zero, and then rubbing it with an abrasive, a finishing layer is applied, which is rubbed with 150 sandpaper, as shown in the photo.

To obtain a surface for mirror painting, it should be additionally polished with a plaster trowel with suede.

Tip: You cannot use felt or felt for polishing, and if suede has been used previously, it must be replaced with a new one.

When painting walls with water-based paint, it is necessary to prime the surface, most often according to the instructions in three layers. At the same time, it is desirable that the composition contains antibacterial additives, which will protect the walls from the appearance of mold and mildew on them.
For the application of glossy water-based paints, the requirements for surface preparation are more stringent than for matte paints.

How to putty gypsum boards before painting, if desired, can be seen in the video in this article. When performing putty on walls for painting, the main condition is to adhere to all instructions and recommendations of specialists attached to the materials.