What is mulch and how to use it. Mulch for the soil - what it is, what functions it performs, how and with what to mulch correctly. Sawdust and wood shavings
In the process of growing various crops in the garden, it becomes necessary to protect the plant from weather adversity. To ensure resistance to the vagaries of the weather, it is recommended to prepare a mulch. It can be used to treat soil near trees, bushes, and especially often at the root of small plants. To find out what mulch is and how to apply it, you should read the current article.
Soil mulching: what is it?
Mulching beds is a way to increase the quality and quantity of the crop by covering the top layer with various plants, secondary raw materials from the woodworking industry or synthetic materials. The procedure can be carried out in areas with an open type of soil. Organic matter is preferred as a material, which gradually undergoes decay and contributes to an increase in additional yield.
Mulching beds is a way to improve the quality and quantity of the crop
What is mulch and how to separate it from the flooring? Mulch is a material of uniform consistency or a mixture of several components that can create high-quality protection from harmful weather conditions of the topsoil.
Knowing what mulch is, you can more accurately determine how to distinguish it from other protection technologies. All materials that cover the ground around plants, but allow the crops themselves to grow, can be classified as mulch.
Soil mulching is used to achieve several main goals:
- used as top dressing for soil with low fertility;
- preservation of moisture in the scorching rays of the sun;
- ensuring high-quality nutrition of garden crops;
- improvement of the gas exchange regime;
- prevention of negative impact on the root system;
- soil washout delay.
Before you start using the technique yourself, you need to know not only what mulch is, but also how to make it as useful as possible, as well as protect yourself from possible negative influences.
What are the benefits of mulching the soil in a summer cottage
Mulching beds has a number of positive effects for summer residents, among the main ones:
- prevention of water evaporation in the area of the plant rhizome;
- protection against exposure to high or low temperatures (in summer, mulch protects against overheating, and in winter from soil freezing);
Mulching improves soil quality
- ensures the establishment or maintenance of the optimal level of acidity;
- saturates the upper layers of the earth with nutrients;
- improves the quality of the soil, it becomes more crumbly and allows fertilizers and other important substances to penetrate to the rhizome in greater quantities;
- prevents washing out and weathering of important microcomponents;
- the organic variety of mulch allows you to accelerate the appearance and increase the number of beneficial microorganisms;
- acts as a kind of protection against various pests;
- improves the appearance of the suburban area;
- inhibits the growth of weed plants;
- prevention of soil splashing during irrigation, that is, the fruits are cleaner and healthier;
- protects ripe fruits from contact with the ground, respectively, the risk of decay and damage by pests is significantly reduced. These factors are especially common when growing pumpkins, strawberries and cucumbers.
Disadvantages of mulching
It should be remembered that mulching the ground is not always required, as this can lead to negative consequences. Most often, the shortcomings are associated with the manufacturing process or improper use of the mulch:
- an excess layer of mulch when cultivating clay soil types can cause rot, which is especially dangerous in rainy weather. For such areas, it is worth making a layer of organic matter no more than 3 cm;
- the increase in yield does not occur in the first year, but only after 2–3 years;
Mulch prevents ripe fruits from touching the ground
- in some regions, mulch can cause plants to freeze during late frosts. The reason lies in the fact that the mulch blocks the heat from below, which could save the plant. When forecasts appear regarding the late onset of sub-zero temperatures, it is worth transferring mulching to spring;
- when using grass, leaves, bark, etc., favorable conditions are created for the shelter of mice and moles. Often worms and various insects are bred in the mulch, this attracts birds that can damage the plants. Slugs can breed in grass and paper mulch.
Types of soil mulching, what materials to use for the procedure
The main classification of mulch is made on the basis of its composition, for example, organic and inorganic forms are distinguished. Compost is organic, but it is often placed in a separate category. The preferred option is always the organic form, as it allows you to enrich the soil with beneficial trace elements.
Most often, wood mulch is used, namely leaves, coniferous needles, bark, shavings, paper, cardboard. Vegetable options are also useful, such as hay, straw, freshly cut plants, etc.
There is a special concept of "active mulch" - this is a term that defines the laying of organic matter in order to obtain useful substances after processing the top layer by various earth inhabitants. Active mulch means laying down a fresh organic bedding that will be constantly eaten, and the waste products are the best fertilizer for the soil. When using active mulch, it is worth regularly laying grass or other food for living organisms. Potatoes under such a mulch give up to 20 kg per 1 m 2, but this will require 30 kg of grass.
"Active mulch" is a term that defines the laying down of organic matter in order to obtain useful substances.
Traditional
You can mulch in the traditional way - just loosen the ground around the plant. If you loosen the soil after watering, you can achieve a longer preservation of moisture and provide coolness. Often used during drought periods when most of the water turns to steam and the ground dries out quickly.
The traditional technique of mulching the garden additionally allows you to eliminate weeds and provide enough oxygen to the soil. The positive side can be replaced by negative aspects - with frequent use, the structure of the earth worsens, the technique does not affect fertility in any way.
organic
Natural mulch is the best material for soil cover. This category includes all types of waste Agriculture. Mulching bark, like other woodworking waste, provides reliable surface protection.
Organics used as mulch also include:
- straw, grass;
- sawdust, wood chips and shavings;
- leaves, pine needles and cones;
- peat;
- manure;
- green manure;
- egg shells, etc.
Natural mulch is the best soil cover material
inorganic
The main task of this variety is protection from heat, evaporation of moisture and violent growth of weeds. Inorganic options do not fertilize the soil and do not affect the quality of its fertility, but they can be used for a long time.
Main materials:
- stone, crushed stone, etc.;
- polymer types of films;
- expanded clay;
- sand.
When and how to mulch the soil
Mulching should not be carried out in early spring, because due to the lack of warming up of the soil, damage and rot can form, which is often found in the rainy season. Frosts at night are partially compensated by the release of heat from the soil, and when laying the top layer, this phenomenon is significantly reduced.
It is recommended to carry out mulching towards the end of spring or at the beginning of the summer season. Heat-loving crops can be covered with a layer of organic matter at the end of June after the soil has warmed up well, then the mulch will help maintain a comfortable temperature.
To ensure healthy air circulation, do not lay the mulch close to the stem, it is better to leave a small indent. This is especially important for fruit trees.
You can increase the effectiveness of the procedure in the case of applying flooring to the beds after watering or rain. Before applying the mulch, it is recommended to loosen the earth. It is worth laying organic matter in a layer of 30 to 80 mm. When using an organic type of flooring, you can not remove it before the onset of winter, since worms can settle inside in early spring, which will heat the plant and accelerate growth. Due to the work of worms in the middle of spring, high-quality humus appears.
Rules and methods of mulching
If you follow the basic rules, you will be able to get the most out of the mulch:
- weeds are preliminarily eliminated throughout the cultivated area;
- beds are filled with water;
- the top layer of the earth should be loosened (from 5 cm);
- leave the soil for a short time to dry the top layer, this will help prevent further compaction;
- the procedure is recommended in late spring or early summer;
- it is worth minimally using weeds for mulching or clearing them of seeds. It is better not to use aggressive species at all;
- there should be a small air gap from the stem to the cover;
- do not lay too large layers, otherwise rotting may be provoked or pests will start.
There are many ways to mulch:
- growing green manure;
- mulching with organic matter;
Daylily mulching is best done organically
- the use of textiles or film;
- peat coating;
- surface composting.
Use of sawdust
For farms in which there is an invasion of mucus, it is recommended to use sawdust to protect plants, since pests can hardly move along them. The material is universal, that is, it can be used on all types of soil.
Sawdust provides a number of positive effects:
- maintain high air permeability;
- create a dense cover;
- sawdust gradually turns into a fertile mass;
- protection against overheating during dry periods.
Most of all, potatoes and tomatoes need sawdust, which are especially vulnerable to drought. It should be borne in mind that charms may appear under the sawdust, which damages the development of plants. To prevent similar phenomenon it is worth controlling the tracking process, periodically spudding the mulch.
hay and straw
The main commandment of farmers is that the surface of the soil should never remain bare. Soil mulching is excellent at retaining moisture, suppressing weeds, releasing nutrients, and preventing crusting after rain. Tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, peppers, corn, cucumbers, pumpkin plants are especially in need of mulching. Using mulch, they increase the yield of garden crops by 30% or more, improve marketability, taste criteria, and juiciness.
Pros and cons of soil mulching
Mulching is an effective agrotechnical method for increasing productivity. The soil is covered with material, so it dries out more slowly.
Mulch in 2-3 years transforms the depleted land layer into fertile and loose. It creates excellent conditions for the life of soil inhabitants. Against the background of mulching, the maturation of early crops is accelerated by 5-14 days. One bucket of mulch applied to the garden is equivalent to 100 buckets of water.
The benefits of mulching:
- Yield increase at the level of 30-50%;
- Prevention of hardening of the surface layer;
- Improvement of biochemical and water-chemical parameters;
- Moisture retention, prevention of excessive perspiration;
- Stopping the growth of weeds;
- Protection against freezing and drying out;
- An increase in earthworms over 500 pcs per square meter;
- Maintaining optimal temperature conditions without sharp fluctuations.
- moles and mice are bred;
- the result is noticeable no earlier than two years later;
- can become food for slugs and wood lice;
- straw, hay with preserved seeds - a source of weeds.
Thanks to the mulch, the earth does not become waterlogged during the rainy season and does not dry out during the drought.
Types of mulch
Traditionally, mulching materials are divided into:
- organic;
- inorganic.
With their help, they prevent the loss of moisture, even out uneven terrain and beautifully hide bare surfaces, which is important for landscape design.
To increase the efficiency of plant materials, the needles are pre-crushed.
Varieties:
| View | Name | Peculiarities | Optimal layer, cm |
| organic | Hay | Gives nitrogen Dry before application |
5-8 |
| Sawdust and chips | Suitable for garden and vegetable garden Good water permeability Pulling nitrogen from the ground |
7-10 | |
| Leaves | A budget option It is advisable to compost before applying |
7-15 | |
| coniferous bark | Prevents evaporation Ideal for shrubs and trees |
5-10 | |
| Needles, fallen needles | Loose texture Rapid decomposition Acidifies the soil layer Sprinkle 2 times a year |
5-7 | |
| Dried stems and leaves of legumes | Valuable source of nitrogen and nutrients | 10 cm | |
| Paper | Used in combination with organic | 0,5-1 | |
| Inorganic | Geotextile | Maintains water and breathability Lay on bare soil before planting Combines effectively with organic mulch |
|
| Plastic | Warms up well, can harm the roots Introduced into the aisles Durability |
||
| Lutrasil, spunbond | Provides a secure cover Gets rid of weeds Keeps berries clean |
||
| Pebbles, stones, rubble | Doesn't take out nitrogen Effective for the garden, rock gardens Accumulate heat during the day, which heat the plants at night |
5-12 cm |
Leaves
An excellent nutritious blanket for beds, trees, bushes. Suitable for sandy and light soils. They structure the earth, form a humus layer. Of the benefits - rapid decomposition in a year and the transition nutrients into the ground. Source of magnesium and calcium. Any leaves except oak and walnut are used, which must be aged for one year in order to reduce the level of tannins.
Of the minuses - it is undesirable to bring under vegetables prone to late blight and rot. In conditions of high humidity promotes the reproduction of fungi.
Mulch:
- currant;
- irgu;
- grape;
- trees.
Efficiency increases by 1.5-2 times with simultaneous application with compost, mowed grass. To disinfect and improve the quality of the material, agricultural technicians recommend watering the leaves with Fitosporin, Fundazol, and Zircon.
Straw
Rich in nutrients, maintains a stable temperature well. Saturates the beds with nitrogen. Straw valued:
- wheat;
- rice.
Protects against dangerous diseases - spotting, apical and gray rot, anthracnose. Of the minuses - it becomes a habitat for rodents. Not applicable in windy areas.
Usage:
- crops planted in winter;
- greenery;
- celery;
- potato.
Hay, mowed green manure
Good material for any garden beds. Grasses are mowed before seeds ripen. Among the advantages - excellent vapor permeability. Structures the soil, supplies carbon to it.
Alfalfa and pea stalks are a source of nitrogen and many trace elements. They are used where it is necessary to improve the texture of the soil - on heavy, golden lands. When applied in a layer of more than 12 centimeters, it leads to mucus and decay.
Compost
It is considered the best universal mulching material and fertilizer at the same time. It is prepared from any type of waste - household kitchen leftovers, hay, branches, leaves. Of the minuses - more weeds grow than on other mulch.
Is used for:
- all vegetable plants;
- trees and shrubs;
- grapes.
Reference! It is applied in a layer of 3-5 cm.
Humus
Of the benefits - it is rich in nutritious organic matter and a mass of minerals, saturates the soil with nitrogen and increases its fertility. Bring in in the spring. Among the disadvantages - stimulates the growth of weeds.
Submit under:
- roses;
- trees;
- shrubs;
- perennials;
- grape varieties.
Peat
Serves as material for autumn-winter mulching. Indicated for soils:
- heavy;
- clay;
- with crust.
With the advent of spring, it accelerates the heating of the surface, retains moisture, and optimizes the structure. Lowland and transitional peat is well suited for application. Do not use fresh material.
branches
According to research by Canadian agricultural technicians, branches thinner than five centimeters are supermulch, pantry:
- pectin;
- amino acids;
- sugars.
Shredded branches create humus. Edged material from raspberries, currants, grapes, fruit trees is especially useful.
coniferous bark
Among the advantages - durability, disinfectant properties. It has a stimulating effect on plants. Used to decorate flower beds, greenhouses. It is undesirable to make under tomatoes.
It is applied for:
- shrubs - blueberries, currants;
- heather species;
- rhododendrons;
- fruit trees.
Important properties - does not cake and does not turn into a crust.
The only negative is the complexity of harvesting and the need for composting within 12 months.
coniferous needles
The layer of needles serves as a reliable protection against fungi and rot. Prevents freezing and drying. Gives looseness and improves water permeability. A scratchy blanket keeps slugs away.
The best types of litter:
- spruce;
- pine.
Among the shortcomings - acidification of the soil, the release of inhibitory volatile substances. Apply under plants requiring acidified soil.
What is mulched:
- strawberries and wild strawberries;
- camellia and hydrangea;
- cranberries and blueberries;
- rose gardens and flower beds;
- heather;
- rhododendrons;
- perennials.
Sawdust and wood shavings
Suitable for various types soil. A good combination is given with compost. Enrich depleted soils. It is advisable to use fresh, not caked, dried sawdust. Depending on the size, the following fractions are distinguished:
- small and medium. Up to 8 centimeters. Used in gardens and flower beds;
- large. More than 9 centimeters. Bring under trees and large bushes.
Of the minuses - they can absorb nitrogenous salts from the soil. To avoid oxidation, chalk or slaked lime is poured.
What is used for:
- bulbous crops;
- raspberries and currants;
- potato;
- trees;
- tomatoes;
- grape.
Paths and trunk circles fall asleep.
Before making sawdust, bark or shavings, the soil is pre-fertilized with nitrogenous compounds - manure, urea, gummate. Prevent loss of nitrogen.
inorganic mulch
Widely used for decorative and garden purposes. Successfully protects the soil layer from drying out. Divided by:
- stones, pebbles, crushed stone, gravel of various fractions;
- paper and cardboard materials;
- expanded clay and plastic;
- ruberoid, only;
- film and textile bases - geotextiles;
- brick and marble chips.
When designing landscape design, color plastic materials, dumping, colorful chips.
Non-woven covering materials serve from 3 to 5 years. Protect against pests, fungal and bacterial pathogens.
Paper, newspapers and cardboard
It decomposes in 4-5 months, and before that it reduces the growth of weeds. Brings carbon into the soil. Mulching is fast. It is useful to mix with organics:
- leaves;
- compost;
- grass.
Light paper waste is used, cut into pieces before application. Due to frequent soaking, the paper requires frequent re-applying.
stones
Especially appreciated in the southern and arid areas. They store heat during the day and release it at night. They do not pull away nitrogen, protect from winds and freezing. Gravel and pebbles are brought into rock gardens, flower beds, flower beds, paths. With their help, one-color and multi-color gravel gardens of unique beauty are created.
Gravel and pebbles are suitable for:
- young;
- cereals;
- carnation;
- saxifrage.
Film
Produced in the form of canvas and sleeves.
| View | POSITIVE FEATURES | Flaws | For which crops |
| Black | Absolute opacity Herbicidal effect - complete cessation of weed growth Molds do not grow |
In the heat, strong heating up to 70 degrees | Strawberry |
| Red | Warms up well during the day Maintains temperature at night |
Soil drying out | Tomatoes |
| Silver | reflects sunlight Prevents the appearance of aphids |
Soil warms up more slowly | Corn salad crops |
| Green | Warms up the ground quickly The film itself does not heat up. Keeps weeds from growing |
Tomatoes Strawberry |
|
| White | Partial reflection of the sun's rays Does not heat up |
Cabbage | |
| transparent | Rapid warming of the earth The film itself does not heat up, and there is no risk of its burning From the second decade of April, maintaining the soil temperature above 10 degrees |
Promotes the germination of weeds | Early root crops - radish salad vegetables |
Secrets of proper mulching
- In the spring, they start mulching only after sufficient heating of the soil;
- Also in the spring, beds mulched for the winter are freed from mulch for the time of warming up;
- Before applying, the surface is loosened to a depth of up to five centimeters, fertilizers are laid out;
- Remove weeds;
- Heavy loams are covered with a thin layer;
- Mulch should not touch the trunks of shrubs and trees;
- Do not use mulch in excessively wet areas.
Timing
Soil mulching for summer and winter is carried out different materials and for various purposes.
Summer mulch retains moisture and suppresses weeds. The optimal application time is the second half of spring, the beginning of June. When garden crops begin to grow and begin to develop intensively. How to mulch according to the season:
| Name | What is used for | Notes |
| Spring | Trees, shrubs, perennials Early vegetables and salads |
Spread out after germination Apply after warming up Shift autumn organics |
| Summer | All vegetables and root vegetables Berries and orchards Flower beds, flower beds |
Cover the aisles Re-cover to protect against drought |
| Autumn | Beds for winter Winter crops Shrubs, trees |
Contribute in combination with mullein, compost |
| Winter | perennials, rosaries Gardens and garden beds |
Apply fallen leaves Leave plant waste for processing by worms and soil inhabitants |
In October-November, beds with such plants are covered with a thick layer to protect against freezing:
- strawberry;
- bulbous crops;
- shrubs;
- garden and ornamental trees.
Coarse residues are used - non-acidic peat, fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. So that in spring the mulch does not interfere with warming up, it is removed and buried 10-15 centimeters deep. Or shift to sprouts. Then they start mulching again and fall asleep between the rows.
Thickness
When laying out the mulching material, pay attention to the soil composition and particle size features of the mulch. On heavy clay soils and loams, mulch is laid in a layer no thicker than 2-3 centimeters. Under the mantle with high humidity, rotting occurs. The beds need regular loosening.
Compost with small thin pieces is suitable for garden crops - cabbage, root vegetables, salads. Laid to a thickness of five centimeters. On sandy depleted lands, a layer of 8-10 centimeters is formed. To form a light coating, hay and needles are added. On the eve and immediately after sowing seeds, do not use rotten straw. It contains many inhibitory components.
Mulching the garden
Young seedlings are mulched immediately during planting. Organic residues and inorganic materials are used - film, lutrasil, stones, fragments of bricks.
Pour under fruit trees:
- compost;
- cut grass;
- shredded bark and branches.
The optimal layer thickness for trees is 4-5 centimeters. To speed up decomposition, sprinkle with a solution of sugar and urea, one glass per 10 liters.
Diameter of the mulched near-stem circle:
- mature trees 2.5-4 meters;
- trees up to 3 years 70-80 centimeters;
- trees from 3 to 6 years old up to 1.5 meters;
- shrubs at least 40-50 centimeters.
The mulch is laid out at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from the trunk to preserve the root neck and space for ventilation, and up to the crown perimeter. You can not mulch seedlings:
- pyramid;
- hill;
- volcano.
For the winter, the mulch is covered with an old film on top. This technique will delay the pests - the flower beetle, the moth and prevent them from moving to the trees.
Common Mistakes When Mulching
- Laying material on unheated beds;
- Poor grinding of residues;
- Excessive watering of mulched crops, as a result - rotting, fungal infections;
- Do not remove the mulch in the spring to warm the surface;
- Do not leave a free area around the root collar or trunk. Due to the compacted fit, rotting occurs;
- Wrong order - seedlings are mulched first, then watering is performed. Need the opposite;
- Do not take into account the characteristics of the soil - composition and PH, determining the thickness of the mulch.
Soil mulching is widely carried out in home gardens and farms to preserve the living structure of the soil and increase fertility. Of the materials used organic raw materials - straw, leaves, peat, needles, bark, branches. Popular geotextiles, black and color film. Materials are selected taking into account the composition and texture of the soil, the features of landscape design.
Soil mulching was invented by nature itself. A person only peeped how a fertile layer is formed under the fallen leaves, moisture is preserved, and plants survive even the most severe colds without problems. Today, there are many mulching technologies using a variety of materials. But the principle remains original, natural - covering the soil with an outer protective layer, which gives the desired effect. To properly carry out this procedure, you need to learn everything about soil mulching.
The benefits of this procedure for cultivated plants are undeniable.
So why do you need mulching? To free the gardener-gardener time for other work or recreation, without prejudice to plants, and even for their benefit.
materials
All mulching materials, of which there are currently more than two dozen, are divided into two large categories: organic and inorganic origin.
The discussion about which type of materials is better is ongoing both among specialists and among amateur gardeners. The choice of category depends on the goals that are supposed to be achieved by mulching, and on the place of application of the material on a particular crop.
When mulching with any materials, an important rule must be observed - it is carried out only after the soil has warmed up well. If you lay the mulch on unheated soil, the effect will be the opposite of what you expected - the plants will develop poorly, their growth will slow down.
organic materials
This group includes the following:
All organic materials differ from inorganic materials in that they are able to rot in the soil and turn into nutrients that saturate plants, form a humus layer and increase soil fertility.
Organic mulch is considered by many to be the healthiest and the only usable mulch. But there is one caveat - when some of its varieties rot, nitrogen is pulled out of the ground. It is needed to activate the process of decay for sawdust, bark and shavings. Of course, the plants are deficient in nitrogen.
There are drawbacks to organic mulch (just like inorganic mulch). For example, if it takes nitrogen from plants, it is necessary to first shed the soil under a layer of mulch with an infusion of manure, litter or urea to replenish it.
Wood mulch (sawdust)
Sawdust can clog over time and cause plants to rot.
There are restrictions on the use of bark, wood chips and foliage from non-fruit trees. For example, it is better not to use birch and oak trees at all, or to use them only for conifers. The high content of tannins in them can damage garden and garden plants, slowing down their development.
For decorative conifers, birch and oak mulch can be used. They like it when the soil is acidified, and they are not afraid of tannins, since the growth of conifers is already slow.
But back to useful properties organic mulch. Large sawdust and wood chips repel slugs. They are not comfortable crawling on them, and if you mulch the beds with these materials, the slugs will leave your garden, despite the presence of tasty plants.
grass mulch
Also, slugs do not like straw. If you put a layer of fine straw (hay) about 12 cm, after shrinking it will give an ideal cover, about seven centimeters high, which can completely and environmentally protect your plants from all misfortunes.
Plant waste - weeds, grass taken from the lawn, the remains of green manure are very well suited for mulching not only between rows, but also near the trunk circles of fruit trees. It is not recommended to lay this type of coating on the beds. Mulch should decompose over time, and cut grass and weeds will quickly dry out in the sun and not have time to decompose. If you wish, you can cover the soil with herbal plant mulch in the fall, before the rainy season. Then by spring you will have a good fertile layer.
Pine and spruce needles are the best material for covering flower beds. It looks very decorative and promotes healthy flower growth.
Manure and compost
This species rightfully ranks first in the ranking of organic materials for mulching.
Decayed manure has the only drawback, or rather, a feature of use that must be taken into account. It has a dark color, so it attracts heat. If the site is in a sunny place, and the plants planted on it are not particularly thermophilic, it is better to choose a light mulch.
moss and turf
They are used mainly for the garden, arranging turfing in the near-trunk circle of fruit trees and shrubs. You can cover the ground with ready-made moss taken from the forest, or with pieces of sod, or by planting any ground covers. Such mulch will grow to the soil and will be durable. In addition to preserving moisture and warming for the winter, it will keep the garden from erosion and increase the amount of nutrients in the soil.
sheet mulch
Fallen leaves should be treated with caution. It has already been mentioned above that the foliage of oak and birch will not bring much benefit to garden and flower plants. In addition, the foliage can become a carrier of fungal diseases, which are transmitted through the soil to cultivated plants, or, picked up by the wind, spread fungal spores throughout the site.
Foliage in its pure form, if there is a suspicion of the presence of fungal diseases, it is better not to use it for mulching. But it can be processed with special means and placed in compost. And when it turns into a nutritious fertilizer, mulch the garden with compost.
inorganic mulch
- film;
- nonwoven materials;
- pebbles, crushed stone and gravel;
- coarse sand;
- paper and cardboard waste;
- expanded clay.
These materials do not contain nutrients and do not decompose to form humus. Therefore, their properties are limited to protective and decorative. But since they do not rot, they are durable and do not lose their properties and appearance for a long time.
Inorganic mulch is mainly used in floriculture and horticulture. Garden beds that need constant cultivation are not covered with crushed stone or gravel, as they interfere with the cultivation of the soil.
gravel and crushed stone
Bulk inorganic materials are usually used as a decorative mulch in flowerbeds, rose gardens, and alpine slides. They can also fill up paths and trunk circles of shrubs and trees. But keep in mind that between the pebbles, no matter how tightly you put them, weeds will still sprout. It is necessary to think in advance about how to remove them in the future.
Film and non-woven cover
The black film perfectly retains moisture, and also protects cultivated plants from weeds, as it inhibits their growth.
But watering is difficult. It has to be carried out manually, getting exactly into the film holes left for plant growth. It is possible to carry out automatic drip irrigation under the film, but it is not easy to control the level of soil moisture with it.
Under the film or non-woven material, if the humidity is high, slugs can accumulate, which will damage the young shoots.
The black film has another significant drawback - it enhances the heating of the soil. In extreme heat, the roots of trees in the ground can “burn out” or rot if overheating is combined with high humidity.
The film is used for mulching plantings of potatoes, tomatoes, garden strawberries. It is desirable to use it in tandem with straw, with which the film is covered from above.
paper waste
They can only be used as an auxiliary material, mixed with another type of mulch. It alone draws moisture out of the soil, dehydrating and drying it out. Paper or cardboard works well under organic mulch. In this way, the germination of weeds can be almost completely prevented (
Many gardeners make a big mistake when they neglect soil mulching or, due to lack of knowledge, use it incorrectly. After all, mulching the soil surface is one of the main techniques that will help save time and effort when caring for the garden. With its help, moisture is retained in the soil, the temperature regime is regulated, the structure of the soil itself improves and plant growth increases. Along with this, the layer of organic material that you cover the soil with (mulch) helps control weeds.
Benefits of mulching
- Soil characteristics become better in several indicators at once: the humus content increases, the activity of microflora, for example, earthworms, increases. The soil acquires a looser structure and ceases to “clog” after watering or rain.
- Mulch provides protection against erosion by preventing the topsoil from weathering, erosion and cracking.
- In summer, mulch retains moisture - less water is needed for watering. Also, the soil covered with mulching material does not heat up so much, which creates more favorable conditions for growth near the plants.
- IN winter time soil is easier to keep warm.
- Mulching in some cases helps to fight diseases and pests: for example, it protects against moles and carrot and onion flies.
- Suppression of growth of weeds. Separately growing annual weeds can be easily pulled out. Vigorous perennial weeds growing through a layer of mulch can be covered with a material that will completely stop their growth.
- Mulch materials such as garden compost and well-rotted manure provide additional plant nutrition.
- Plantings decorated with mulching material look more neat and finished, and with a successful selection of mulch to the environment, you can create a special garden atmosphere, express its style and emphasize individuality.
What mulch to choose
According to the type of material, organic and inorganic mulch are distinguished. Organic mulch includes the following types.
Peat
This inexpensive and affordable material is suitable for mulching in a mixborder, in a shrub border and on small areas. Using high-moor peat soil acidity will increase. After drying, this material sticks together into dense clods or forms a crust that hardly absorbs water and is easily blown away by the wind. Therefore, it is better to apply lowland peat: it has a lower acidity, and allows you to slightly acidify the soil, for example, for rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers and hydrangeas. If no increase in soil acidity is required, then it is better to use low-lying neutralized peat, in the production of which the acidity is brought to neutral. For mulching purposes, it is best to use milled peat, broken into small fractions and due to this loose.
It is important to know
It should be remembered that peat is a very hygroscopic material, it absorbs a large number of water and does not give it well, therefore, when watering, you should make sure that the soil under the layer of peat mulch is sufficiently saturated with moisture.
Bark and wood chips
Better than peat: remain on the soil surface for 2-3 years. Pieces of bark and fractions of wood chips can be from 1-5 cm. Such a mulch is not blown by the wind and will look attractive around trees and shrubs. Bark and chips coniferous trees also acidify the soil, and although this process is longer than with peat, this property should still be taken into account and acidity should be adjusted when applying mineral fertilizers. Of the organic types of mulch, crushed bark and wood chips create perhaps the highest decorative effect, look natural and harmonious in any planting.
Wood chips can be dyed in various shades, today their range is quite wide, there are calm chocolate tones, stylish black and interesting golden options. It is important to make sure that the manufacturer used organic safe dyes for processing.
Sawdust and shavings
It can be used in its pure form, as well as mixed with peat or compost. When decomposing, such a mulch also slightly increases the acidity and absorbs nitrogen from the soil, so only a well-rotted layer should be embedded in the soil so as not to cause a nitrogen deficiency in plants. You can correct the situation by applying nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers, especially in the spring. In general, such a mulch does its job, but small sawdust can be carried by the wind, litter the paths and stick to wet shoes. Therefore, more often such mulch is used as a heater for the winter period.
Leaf and coniferous litter
Quickly decomposes and enriches the soil with organic matter. However, it should be ensured that the applied foliage and needles do not contain pathogens and pests at the wintering stage. Pine and spruce needles slightly acidify the soil, but larch needles do not affect the acidity of the soil and enrich it with nitrogen. From hardwoods, it is convenient to use oak litter, due to the high content of tannins, the leaves do not sag for a long time and create a loose volumetric layer, but you need to make sure that the material is not infected .
These types of mulch are most often used to warm plantings for the winter.
Well rotted manure
Although manure is not as attractive as peat or bark, it is considered the cheapest and most effective material for improving soil structures. You need to use well-rotted manure without the content of live weed seeds in its composition.
garden compost
You can make it yourself - from cut grass, non-lignified shoots, old stems, etc. Quality compost should be free of weed seeds and the grass should not be subject to herbicide treatments. In terms of its qualities, it is similar to manure: it also nourishes and improves soil structure, protects against temperature extremes, although not as effectively as manure.
Straw
Often used in rural areas mulching material due to its easy availability and low cost. However, in a flower bed or in a border in front of the house it will look unattractive. Has two drawbacks: it is necessary to additionally use nitrogen fertilizers, it can attract small rodents for wintering. Of the advantages, one can note the good preservation of heat in the soil, but such mulch should be removed in time from under heat-loving plants in the spring so that it does not interfere with the heating of the soil.
old seedling compost
Peat-based compost used for growing seedlings has both positive and negative qualities of peat. It also contains nutrients. Any compost in which seedlings of flowers and vegetables grew, as well as a nutrient mixture for growing mushrooms (it can be scattered on the soil surface near plants that prefer acidic soils), will do.
cut grass
Obtained after mowing the lawn with grass, you can mulch the near-trunk circles of trees and shrubs. To do this, the grass should be dried, since the fresh raw grass in the lower layers will rot and rot, creating a dense layer that makes it difficult for air exchange in the soil and prevents watering. The thickness of the layer of dry grass is on average 5-8 cm. Flowering weeds and grass from a lawn treated with herbicides cannot be used for mulching.
On a note
Inorganic mulch includes sand, gravel, pebbles, various non-woven materials, capable of passing water and air, but absorbing most of the rays of the solar spectrum (spunbond, lutrasil, etc.). Non-woven materials covering the surface of the soil under mulching completely prevent the germination of weeds, and cultivated plants are planted in the slots in the material. To increase the decorative effect, the non-woven material can be covered with, for example, bark, wood chips or pebbles.
Methodology and timing
Loose materials containing coarse organic matter will help keep the soil in the same condition as at the time of mulching. They will make good insulators. The soil at the time of coating should be warm and moist.
As a rule, mulching is carried out in May. The soil must first be prepared:
- clear of debris;
- hands or a chopper to get rid of annual weeds;
- if the area is heavily weeded, it should be sprayed with a fast-acting contact herbicide;
- weed out perennial weeds. A few perennial weeds are removed by hand. If there are a lot of them, the leaves need to be treated with a contact herbicide Tornado, Lintur, Lontrel, Roundup, etc.
- scatter complex fertilizer over the surface of the site and lightly embed it into the soil with a rake.
The warm, weed-free and moist soil is then covered with mulch. For organic material, the layer thickness is 5-8 cm, for inorganic mulch the layer can be 3-5 cm, depending on the density.
Mulching is the covering of the soil surface with a layer of mulch in order to protect it from weathering and enrich its mineral composition, as a result of its settlement with a large number of agronomically effective microorganisms.
Mulch is any material with which we cover the soil. Mulch comes in organic and inorganic varieties. Bark, grass, wood chips, humus, sawdust, straw, paper, cardboard, nut shells, leaf and coniferous litter, compost, silage, cake are used as organic mulch.
Inorganic mulch includes films and non-woven materials, sand, crushed stone, screenings, expanded clay.
Organic mulch compensates for the removal of nutrients, micro and macro elements from the soil by the crop. And most importantly, with mulch, we introduce carbon compounds into the soil, which is building material and the plants themselves and future fruits.
Benefits of mulching for soil and plants.
Mulching the soil allows you to get rid of weeds in the garden. Reduce the amount of watering, because the safety of moisture under a layer of mulch is much higher. This is very important during dry periods of the year.
In addition, soil mulching cools the root zone of plants and allows the suction roots of the plant to consume moisture from the soil at the optimum temperature.
What can not be said about a plant that is watered in unmulched soil. It is forced to consume very warm moisture from the soil. And this does not contribute to optimal cooling of the plant during the hot period.
Under a layer of mulch, the soil structure improves. The soil becomes looser, more airy, a large number of soil microorganisms settle in it and, accordingly, the biological activity of the soil increases. Which will definitely have a beneficial effect on your future crops.
Mulching locks nutrients in the soil preventing them from being washed out and weathered. In addition, thanks to the mulch, water vapor condenses from the air.
Mulch stimulates the growth of adventitious roots, because the soil under the mulch is not covered with a crust and air enters the roots constantly, and not just after loosening the beds.
In addition, a layer of mulch provides a favorable temperature regime for plants. Including does not give deep freezing of the soil in winter. Beds mulched before winter with leaf litter in early spring can be quickly sown with cold-resistant siderates such as winter and spring rapeseed, rye, oats, mustard, phacelia by removing a layer of leaf mulch.
But do not rush to lay in the compost the leaf litter that has served its purpose, we will still need it. When will we lack green grass for mulching in summer. Due to its burnout under the southern scorching sun.
The mulching layer is an obstacle to the development of fungal diseases, preventing the spread of spores of phytophthora, mildioidium and other fungi. Under the mulch, trichoderma and hay bacillus are rapidly bred, with which the pathogens of most fungal diseases are not very friendly.
The mulching material prevents the soil from splashing onto the plant leaves when watering. This gives additional protection against traditional fungal diseases. Which are violently developing in the gardens by the middle of summer.
What to do before mulching
Before you start mulching, you need to weed out the weeds and loosen the soil. Mulch is laid out on the surface of the loosened soil on which vegetables are grown.
The mulch should not be too close to the trunk or root collar. Firstly, this can lead to fungal diseases, and as a result, to rotting of the plant.
The mulch layer should be 5 cm, but if the soil in your area is clayey, then the mulch layer at first should be no more than 2 cm. This is necessary so that the plants do not get wet. Then, after a few years, when the soil is enriched with humus due to mulching, the thickness of the mulching layer can be increased.
To give impetus to the rapid development of soil microbiota under a layer of mulch, it is necessary to put bowls under the mulch. Bokashi is bran with agronomically efficient microorganisms populated on it.
You need to put them there just before covering with a layer of mulch. Otherwise, under the open sun, they will quickly die.
Mulching with grass and straw.
Grass and straw are the most effective mulching materials. Green grass has a lot of nitrogen and such a mulch does not remove nitrogen from the soil. Which is inevitably consumed by soil microorganisms during the decomposition of green mulch into organic compounds useful for plants. Which is very important on infertile soils.
Straw is an excellent mulching material that retains heat in the soil. Straw is rich in carbon, but contains little nitrogen of only 0.5%. This leads to little difficulty when using unprepared straw to mulch infertile soils.
Fertility and productivity are really falling. But this is only in the year of mulching and the next year. But then the fertility of the soil in the areas mulched with straw is irrevocably improved. That the straw did not take out useful macronutrients from the soil even in the first year of use, the straw must be well chopped and enriched with nitrogen.
In order for the mulch layer along the edges of the beds to be as thick as in the middle, it is convenient to limit the edges of the beds with wooden bumpers. Fastening the walls together with boards. Placed between pegs driven into the soil.
Mulching the soil with cardboard.
Because of overseas videos about organic farming and the cultivation of virgin lands overgrown with weeds using cardboard. Our compatriots have awakened a genuine interest in the use of this material for soil mulching in their gardens and orchards.
In my opinion, mulching the soil with cardboard is only suitable for use In areas where a person rarely steps, but not in the aisles. Because, firstly, it is not aesthetically pleasing. It is much more pleasant for the eye to look at the aisles covered with grass or straw. Secondly, dry cardboard rises all the time and you can inadvertently stumble and fall through it.
But there is one indisputable advantage of this mulching material. If it is wet enough underneath, worms like to settle under it. Cardboard worms simply adore it for them to become both a home and food at the same time. And if any of you wanted to build such a house for worms in your garden, then it would look something like this.
Therefore, I recommend covering the aisles or areas free from planting with cardboard in several layers and pressing the sides of the cardboard sheets. In the absence of natural wetting of cardboard in the form of rains, it is advisable to spill it from a hose.
Cardboard for soil mulching is better to take corrugated. There is an air gap, which has a beneficial effect on the aerobic processes that occur during the decomposition of cardboard.
Chip mulch.
This is one of the materials that is easier to buy than to harvest yourself. Of course, wood chips are not eternal, they will have to be updated periodically, but not often. Most often, this mulch is enough for two or three seasons.
Today in the store you can find a variety of wood chips. A skilled designer will fit any "cheerful" colors into the landscape.
But if you are not a designer, then it is best to choose wood chips in natural colors: green, brown and yellow, for decorating flower beds.
When buying wood chips, pay attention to how it was painted. Natural dyes, getting into the soil, will not harm it. But artificial ones will harm the soil microflora.
Another disadvantage of wood chips is that they draw nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, it is better to spread it in the trunk circles of mature trees and shrubs. And for young ones, it is worth putting a layer of compost or humus under the mulch.
The durability of the mulch is affected by what kind of trees it was made from. Conifers last longer than hardwoods. But at the same time, coniferous chips acidify the soil. Mulch from linden or birch will overheat faster, but is also suitable for any plants.
In order for the soil to dry out faster in spring, the wood chips are raked. Then it can be washed, disinfected and, after drying, used again.
What mistakes are likely when mulching the soil?
- They mulched very early.
Planted seedlings are mulched immediately after planting. And sowing seeds - only after the plants rise and grow by 10 cm. Otherwise, the sprouts will not be able to break through the mulch layer.
- Mulched too thin.
It is necessary to lay a layer of mulch on the soil no thinner than 3 cm, normally 5-7 cm. The bottom layer must be moistened. Then the mulch will not fly away from the garden. And it becomes an environment for the development of biocenosis on the surface of the beds. In addition, a thin layer of mulch does not inhibit the growth of weeds.
- The wind blew all the mulch off the beds.
When you mulch already raised plantings, the risk of the mulch being blown away by the wind will be minimal. Since the plants themselves will delay the mulch themselves from blowing it off the beds.
If the mulching of the beds is adjusted for the rain, then the mulch moistened and compacted by the rain will no longer be blown away from the beds by the winds. But if rain is not expected, then you yourself can shed the newly mulched plantings with water.
