Proper heating in the house. Do-it-yourself water heating schemes for a private house and some design nuances. Heating system diagrams

Reading time ≈ 19 minutes

For those who live outside the city or just in a small town or village, it will be quite useful to know how to properly install heating in a private home. The approach here is very important from both a financial and practical point of view, that is, do I have enough money to carry out the project and do I need one or another heating method to provide heat in all living rooms of the building. Of course, these are questions of a personal nature, and now we will look at the main directions that are used in the private sector, and quite successfully.

Three main systems for heating a private home

Installation of radiator heating in a private house

There are many ways to heat houses in the private sector, but recently three of them can be called the most popular:

1. Radiator heating.
2. Water heated floor system.
3. Combination of radiator heating and water heated floor system.

Maybe someone will say that the most popular at the moment is stove heating. Maybe. However, we will still talk about autonomous water heating and methods of its installation. But before that you need to pay a little attention to the elements heating systems, from which the circuit is assembled for any option.

Devices and elements used for heating

Aluminum radiators of different sizes

Today, if we don’t talk about their configuration, there are three types of radiators that differ in metal and these are:

• cast iron;
• steel;
• aluminum;
• bimetal

If we are talking about the private sector, then heating can only be autonomous and only 0.1% of private houses are connected to centralized boiler houses. These are the houses that were once built by enterprises for their workers, but were bought over time, and centralized heating still remains in some places, although not all of them have it.

• Means, cast iron radiators disappear immediately, since they take too long to heat up and require a large amount of water, which is not at all suitable for autonomy - too many expenses.
• Steel batteries, both sectional and panel (non-removable), are excellent for a private home - they have good heat transfer and a pleasant appearance, but they begin to rust and fail faster than others.
• Aluminum radiators are intended exclusively for autonomous heating and there are two reasons for this: firstly, they will not withstand very high pressure and, secondly, special additives must be added to the coolant, which is impossible with a centralized water supply.
• , this is an ideal option both for the private sector and for multi-storey buildings. They withstand the highest possible pressure, but in in this case we are not interested in this, but they have excellent heat transfer, and the service life is almost equal to cast iron, that is, if for cast iron it is 30-35 years, then for bimetal it is 25-30 years.

Cross-linked polyethylene pipe layers

For a heated floor system, not even according to the instructions, but by default, a pipe made of high quality cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) should be used. The problem here is that, firstly, it is an expensive material, although a good one, and, secondly, when pouring the second layer of screed, which is done on top of the heated floor system, the pipes need to be filled with water so as not to flatten them with the solution (this causes certain inconveniences). But practice has shown that cheaper metal plastic is excellent for this purpose, only it must be seamless - this ensures its strength. From my own experience, I can say that underfloor heating systems made of metal plastic, installed 10-15 years ago by me personally, are still functioning successfully.

Setting up a double-circuit convection gas boiler

If we talk about boilers for water heating, they can be:

• gas;
• electrical;
• diesel;
• solid fuel.

Be that as it may, gas units are certainly the best and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, double-circuit models provide hot water supply for the home without installing an indirect heating boiler, secondly, such units can be not only convection, but also condensation (low temperature), energy-dependent and non-volatile, and modern models must have a built-in circulation pump . Gas boilers of any type are also equipped with built-in groups of various equipment: for automatic adjustment of temperature conditions and a safety group.

Unfortunately, not every area has the ability to connect to a gas main, and then most often they use electric boilers of various types, but in 99% of cases, these are heating elements, although some prefer electrode or induction models. But here, too, not everything is so smooth - at a distance from the city, due to old transformers, sometimes there is not enough voltage to ensure normal operation of the electrical unit, and then they purchase diesel or solid fuel boilers. Of course, this is a personal matter for everyone, but a wood-burning boiler wins over a diesel one for several reasons. Firstly, solar fuel is more expensive than firewood, secondly, firewood does not require nozzles, which a diesel engine cannot do without, and thirdly, solid fuel boilers are much cleaner to operate (no soot or unpleasant odor).

Advantages and disadvantages of water heating

Integrated water heating system in the private sector

To begin with, as always, about the positive qualities of water heating systems:

• First of all, there is no need for daily cleaning and lighting of the stove.
• The microclimate can be adjusted in each room individually.
• You can leave home even for a month, leaving the boiler in the on position - it will work in the specified mode.
• Aesthetics of installation, both radiator and floor circuits.
• You don’t have to worry about storing fuel every year for the winter.

Of course, this method also has its downsides:

• High cost of equipment (boiler, radiators, pipes).
• In some cases, water leaks are possible in the radiator circuit.
• If you do not use the heating system in winter, there is a danger of defrosting.

As you can see, water heating has many more advantages than disadvantages, and this is not surprising - after all, such designs are a child scientific and technological progress. In addition, this type of coolant is by far the cheapest, and therefore the most profitable. If you calculate all the costs as a whole, then the cost of stove heating, taking into account the time spent on it, will not be much lower at its price.

Radiator heating

You can, of course, talk about a radiator heating system in a general sense, like it’s convection heating from appliances distributed throughout the house and the like, but this is meaningless information, since everyone knows about it. Here it is important to highlight other factors, such as the number of pipes for the coolant, their location and the method of connecting heating devices to them.

Differences between single-pipe radiator circuits

Single-pipe heating system with natural circulation

Many people in private houses, especially small ones, prefer “one-pipe” and this is quite logical - installation is somewhat cheaper than for two-pipe wiring. Although it is cheaper only for small houses, for a large building this is already a controversial issue. The essence of the coolant movement here is as follows - it moves sequentially through all radiators, and having reached the last one, it returns to the boiler. In addition, such systems, compared to two-pipe systems, are easier to install, but this is only one side of the coin.

The fact is that the water, passing through each battery, becomes colder and colder, and often the very last device hardly heats up - it is almost impossible to correct this situation. The more points, the greater the cooling of the water, although this is somewhat compensated by the circulation pump, which does not allow the coolant to cool so quickly. For this reason, they try to make the plots as short as possible, in any case, a maximum of 30 m, and this is not always enough even for an average house. But, be that as it may, such systems “take place.”

Horizontal connection

Horizontal connection a) bottom; b) diagonal

The horizontal heating scheme in a private house is very convenient for one-story buildings, but here, in fact, there are three ways to install radiators. The two most popular are shown in the image above, that is, the pipe is laid near the floor, and radiators are connected to it using bends. This is the most effective method saving coolant energy for horizontal connection, that is, with this method the water cools less and the last point is still hot, although, of course, not as hot as the first two or three.

In addition, pay attention to the diagonal connection, it depends on the direction of water movement, that is, first the top, then the bottom - this is how the heating devices warm up best, since the sections are filled evenly. That is, with sufficient pressure, the coolant does not immediately fall down the first section, but is distributed further - from the vertical pipe of the device down along the ribs. With a lower connection, the upper part of the radiator is often colder, since the water movement mainly occurs along the lower pipe of the device, only slightly affecting the upper zone of the ribs.

The principle of this system is “from radiator to radiator”

Also, for horizontal wiring, the principle “from radiator to radiator” is sometimes practiced. This is when the coolant, having passed through one radiator, immediately enters the next one, that is, such a circuit does not provide for a separate pipe, but is itself a highway. If one battery is removed, the entire system becomes inoperable because it interrupts the flow. Of course, there is no dispute, this is the most economical of all possible options, because this will require a minimum number of pipes to connect the points to each other. But the heat loss for remote points here is very strong and I myself had to deal with the fact that the owners asked to redo such a scheme.

Vertical layout

Vertical distribution of radiators in the heating system is necessary for several floors

This type of wiring, as in the diagram above, is used in multi-storey buildings and a striking example of this is “Stalinka”, “Khrushchev” and “Brezhnevka”. This principle was adopted by the owners of two-story private houses and it must be said that it works, if only because no one turns the flow of water instead of a pipe through their own battery. The connection in this case is very similar to the horizontal one, but without diagonals, that is, it is either bottom or side. This, of course, is a big drawback and most often it is necessary to install an additional circulation pump.

This additional draft is especially important when the house is divided into two wings - heating on the side of the boiler is normal, but in the wing next to it it is cold. But here you need to be careful - if the power of the circulation pump installed in the adjacent wing exceeds the power of the pump integrated into the boiler, then everything will be exactly the opposite. This means that the coolant will flow out to the adjacent wing, and the wing in which the boiler is installed will turn out to be cold. In addition, if there are a large number of radiators, balancing valves are installed on them, which allow the supply to be evenly distributed to all points. All these are the costs of “single-tube” devices, but, I repeat, people use them quite successfully.

Leningradka system

Leningradka wiring system

Firstly, “Leningradka” is not know-how, but an ordinary single-pipe system of a horizontal type, but without a circulation pump, but with a pipe slope, due to which circulation occurs. Secondly, such a layout does not allow more than three radiators and is only suitable for small houses, for example, a room-bedroom-kitchen, so there won’t even be enough left for a bath. If a circulation pump appears on the return, then do not be mistaken - this is no longer a “Leningrad”, but the most common single-pipe system with forced supply of coolant.

One-pipe wiring. Is it as cheap as it seems?

Two-pipe heating system

You need to figure out how to install heating in a private home yourself and do it correctly, that is, without errors during installation. If we combine all the methods of such wiring together, we can say that these are two pipes, where hot water is supplied through one, and through the other the cooled liquid flows into the boiler for further heating. Radiators are inserted between these two circuits; the coolant, having passed through each of them, is immediately discharged into the return line. In fact, the number of heating devices here is not limited and until the liquid in the pipe cools down due to the distance, all radiators under certain conditions will have an equal chance of temperature control.

Such systems can be either with natural or forced circulation and have three types of device connections:

1. Top connection.
2. Bottom connection.
3. Collector (radial) connection.

Top Wiring Systems

Top-mounted systems are more suitable for natural circulation

Numbering in the image:

1. Heating boiler.
2. Main riser.
3. Coolant supply wiring.
4. Supply risers.
5. Return risers.
6. Main return.
7. Expansion tank.

In the top image you see the installation of heating with overhead wiring - this design is visually familiar, perhaps, to every adult, and hardly anyone is delighted with the pipe running near the ceiling or directly above the radiators. But this is a forced, but unusually effective option for the natural circulation of coolant, which was practiced in those days when they did not even think about circulation pumps. This method is still practiced for solid fuel boilers in our time, because it is not always possible to install a pump for forced supply.

The essence of this method is as follows: water is heated in boiler No. 1 and, naturally, following the laws of physics, it expands, therefore, rises through the main riser No. 2. The coolant continues along inclined bed No. 3. The slope is 0.01%, that is, it is 10 mm per linear meter. From the sun lounger, hot water enters risers No. 4, where the radiators are embedded, and after passing through the radiator, the coolant is discharged first into return riser No. 5 (this is for several floors), and then enters the main return pipe No. 6. This is the end of the cycle - along a flat return line, where the same slope (10 mm per linear meter) water is again sent to the boiler for heating and the start of a new cycle. In case of overheating, which often happens in unregulated boilers, the coolant rises into the expansion tank without causing any harm to the system.

This wiring is very convenient; the radiators on it have a diagonal connection, therefore, they warm up completely, without “dead” zones. A natural circulation system is suitable for use in the private sector, but not only for one floor - it can be equipped with up to three floors, but then the boiler will have to be raised to the 2nd or 3rd floor. In this case, the height of the heater reduces the need for high pressure injection, therefore, the higher the boiler, the larger the area that can be heated.

Bottom-wired systems

Bottom wiring for forced coolant circulation

In this case, the principle of supply and discharge of coolant remains the same as with natural circulation, but the presence of a pump (integrated into the boiler or additional) allows the supply circuit to be mounted below. This makes it possible to use closed pipes - they are filled with screed, hidden under drywall or recessed in grooves under plaster. Most often in such cases, the bottom connection of radiators is used to minimize the visibility of the pipes, but this is not important - the connection can also be lateral or diagonal, depending on the need.

But if there are a lot of radiators, heat loss cannot be avoided in any case, since the circuit will have to be extended. That is, if the first points on a segment of ten meters heat up by 100% or a little less, then along the pipe the heating will still drop due to the distance. To some extent, these losses are compensated by a larger feed diameter, for example, if the bends are made PPR Ø 20 mm, then the contour itself is PPR 25 mm or even PPR 32 mm. But such a measure is only partial and cannot evenly distribute heat to all points. Therefore, balancing valves are installed on the first radiators - these are essentially shut-off valves, only more precise, regulating the flow of coolant.

A huge advantage in this case is that the contour does not need a slope - it is usually mounted along a horizontal line, and sometimes even with a counter-slope. Another very important point: if it is planned to install an additional circulation pump, then it is installed only on the return line - it works most effectively on suction, and not on push. An expansion tank is also installed in such systems, but of the membrane type - it serves as an auxiliary device for the integrated circulation pump, creating pressure. In case of overheating, the boiler has a safety group with a blast valve.

Systems with collector (beam) wiring

Manifold wiring of radiators in a private residential building

No matter how good a two-pipe heating system is, nevertheless, there will be heat loss even with a circulation pump - this mainly depends on the length of the circuit and the longer it is, the more losses the outer radiators suffer. Of course, the way out is mainly balancing valves, but setting them up is not so easy, especially for a person who has never worked with heating - too much time is spent on adjustment.

Therefore, in a large house where there are many heating devices, the method of collector or radial radiator wiring is sometimes used. This does not mean that each battery is connected separately from the collector - one comb channel usually works for a group of heating devices. In such cases, losses are minimal, although sometimes it is also necessary to use balancing valves. The main disadvantage of this layout can be called a large number of pipes and this is not only a financial, but also a technical problem - the more pipes, the more difficult it is to lay them, since everything needs to be disguised.

There is another wiring option, very similar to the lower one in technology, but differing in the connection order. You can watch it in the video below. This is Tichelman's scheme. I deliberately omitted its description, since it is much clearer in the video.

Three radiator wiring diagrams

Warm floor

The underfloor heating system is mainly a privilege of the private sector, since it requires exclusively autonomous heating. Of course, there are a few cases of residents of multi-storey buildings refusing the services of a centralized boiler house, but the red tape that lies behind all this does not in any way contribute to enthusiasm.

Laying a pipe with a single (left) and double (right) snake

First, let's look at the methods of laying the heating circuit of a heated floor and at the top you see a single (left) and double (right) snake. From the picture it immediately becomes clear that the first method is bad, since the heating of the floors will be uneven, and this is simply unpleasant for the feet, although the room can warm up completely. Double laying distributes heat evenly over the entire floor area.

Spiral pipe laying

Of course, in most cases, this is not a square, but a round figure, but the principle of laying does not change from this - first, towards the center, the feed is laid, and then returned to the starting point to the collector. This is the most effective method for installation of underfloor heating systems and is used in approximately 80% of cases. A snake is most often needed in hard-to-reach places: under the stairs, behind the bar counter, and so on.

Mounting methods: on brackets (left), on clamps (right)

To fix both polyethylene and metal-plastic pipes so that they do not move out of place, use fastenings in the form of brackets or clamps, but at the same time adhere to a pitch of 200 mm with any laying configuration. Foil must be placed under the contour (most often it is 2-mm foam foil), and if necessary, the bottom screed is insulated).

Wiring of the heated floor system from the collectors

A pipe that is filled with a screed (polyethylene or foam) is never connected directly to the boiler, even if it is singular, but only through a manifold (in common parlance, a comb). This allows you to install a separate circuit in each room, although there are situations when two pipes are laid on the floor of one room at once - this measure is necessary for a large area. The supply from the boiler goes to the manifold and the return goes from it to the heater. There are combs with shut-off valves, and some without them, but in any case it is possible to regulate the temperature - either with a tap or with a temperature sensor.

If necessary, to avoid confusion in the pipes, several boxes with collectors are installed in different rooms - this is very convenient in terms of temperature control during operation. Such containers, of course, are best recessed into the wall, but outdoor installation is also allowed - technologically, the location does not matter, it is simply a matter of aesthetics. As a casing for such a niche, plumbers often use metal boxes for built-in electrical panels - they are very convenient and reliable to use, and do not require painting. If the house does not have radiator heating and a gas boiler is installed, then it is better to give preference to a condensing unit - it is more expensive than a convection unit, but the cost will more than pay off during operation.

Combined heating

Combined heating scheme - radiators and heated floors

Modern residential buildings in the private sector, which have two and sometimes three floors, are equipped with combined heating, where radiators operate from one boiler together with a heated floor system. This option is very convenient to use, that is, warm floors themselves are more profitable and convenient than radiators, but they cannot be installed in every room. But, be that as it may, this choice is a personal matter for everyone and the reasons in this case do not matter - the most important thing here is the balance between different temperatures in the circuits.

If a minimum coolant temperature of 60-80°C is required in the radiator circuit, then in a heated floor system it will be 30-50°C, respectively, and all this must be done using one boiler from one supply. To do this, a three-way valve and a bypass are installed in front of the heated floor circuit (see diagram above). The valve is set to the desired temperature, for example, 40°C. Water from the supply flows into the pipe onto the floor until it exceeds this mark. When this happens, the valve switches and discharges hot water through the bypass into the return line. As soon as the floor temperature drops by 1-2°C, the valve switches again and supplies coolant to the floor circuit.

Conclusion

You can see for yourself that if you figure out in detail how to make heating yourself in a private house, then the question becomes not so difficult - the main thing is to correctly understand the technology. Of course, for this you will have to re-read the article more than once, and then the question of technology will arise, but this, as they say, is a gainful matter.

An effective heating system will make life comfortable in any home. Well, if the heating works very poorly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about diagrams and rules for installing elements of a system that heats a home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

• heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
• heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
• heating element - in traditional systems this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when the radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the oven scheme was considered obsolete at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection option is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, to build the system we will need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and fittings for the pipeline with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components within one system with your own hands. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for your home.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with liquid coolant. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to choose not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you will have to choose between three options:

• Gas boiler - it processes main or bottled fuel into heat.
• Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, firewood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
• Electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

Nai the best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator running on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates continuously, since fuel is supplied automatically and in arbitrarily large volumes. Moreover, such equipment actually has no disadvantages, except for high fire danger, which is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline, it is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long-term burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, but special design allows you to reduce the frequency of loading from twice a day to one filling of the firebox every 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not exempt from periodic cleaning, so this is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all possible is an electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into coolant energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler requires frequent replacement of the heater and the installation of a reinforced electrical wiring line, as well as grounding. The only advantage of this option is the complete absence of combustion products. An electric boiler does not require a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either gas or solid fuel options. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or rather, to its power, which should compensate heat losses dwellings in winter.

Choosing a boiler based on power begins with calculating the square footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 square meters you need a boiler of 7000 watts or 7 kW. In addition, it would be a good idea to include a 15% reserve in the boiler capacity, which will be useful during severe cold weather. As a result, for a house of 70 m2 you need a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%).

More accurate calculations Heater power is based not on the squares of the area, but on the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy costs for heating one cubic meter are equal to 41 watts. And a house with an area of ​​70 m2 with a 3-meter ceiling height should be heated by a heat-generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15 percent power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat-generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or metal-plastic?

To install a heating system throughout the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even based on aesthetic preferences. In a private house there is no high pressure in the system, therefore there are no restrictions on strength characteristics radiators. However, the requirements for the heat-generating capacity of batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 square meters there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a power of 1.5 kW.

With pipes the situation becomes more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to install the network on your own with minimal knowledge and effort on the part of a home-grown mechanic. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

• Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both domestic and industrial heating systems, but are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected using soldering, and not everyone is familiar with this operation.
• Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but their installation requires a special welding machine. However, even a child can master such a device.
• Metal-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic is no more expensive than polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble homemade heating based on metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle welding machine or a soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be installed even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only on the last 3-4 turns. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½-inch pipe - this bore diameter is sufficient for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment will not be used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, driven by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be sufficient for such a system. There is no need to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And which wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal diagrams for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-installation

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can also be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a circuit, so further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: the hot flow leaves the boiler jacket and flows through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second, and so on, until the outermost radiator. There is virtually no return in such a system - it is replaced by a short section connecting the outermost battery and the boiler. Moreover, when designing a single-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this section.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang the batteries and run one wiring thread between each preinstalled elements of the heating circuit. However, you will have to pay for the ease of installation by the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, you can regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of ​​50 square meters. However, such a layout is simply ideal for small buildings, as well as for the natural coolant circulation pattern, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational forces.

The two-pipe system is designed a little differently. In this case, the following coolant flow pattern applies: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it drains into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a double-circuit scheme, radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit option assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve into the branch from the pressure line connected to the radiator, after which it becomes possible to control the volume of coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating the air in a particular room, but also from senseless overconsumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: it is very difficult to assemble on its basis effective system on natural coolant circulation. But based on a pump, it works much better than its single-circuit counterpart. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step by step instructions assembling a single-circuit system using natural circulation and a double-circuit network using forced movement of coolant.

Assembling a heating system with natural circulation

The construction of a natural circulation system begins with choosing a location. The heat source should be in a corner room, located at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will go along the internal perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly above the boiler. Once the location for the boiler has been chosen, you can begin installing it. To do this, the wall in the placement area is covered with tiles, and either a galvanized sheet or a flat slate panel is placed on the floor. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant.

When the required number of batteries is already hanging on the walls of the house, you can proceed to assembling the wiring. To do this, you need to connect a 30-centimeter section of horizontal pipeline to the pressure pipe (or fitting) of the boiler. Next, a vertical pipe raised to the ceiling level is attached to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the insertion point for the expansion tank.

To install the tank, use a vertical tee fitting, and screw a second horizontal section of the pressure pipe to the free outlet, which is pulled at an angle (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal turns into the second vertical section, going down to the radiator pipe, to which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded fitting.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of the appropriate length and two fittings. After this, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last battery is connected. Finally, you need to install the Mayevsky faucet into the upper free fitting of the last battery and connect the return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is inserted into the lower pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can install a tee insert with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. After which the system can be filled with water and the boiler turned on.

Heating with forced circulation in 8 steps

It will also be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However, maximum efficiency of a system with forced circulation will be ensured only by two-pipe wiring, arranged according to the following rules:

1. 1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heating device.
2. 2. Next, two pipes are lowered from the boiler pressure and return pipes to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. 3. Two horizontal lines are installed at the ends of these pipes - pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the outermost battery.
4. 4. At the next stage, you need to hang the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The entrance and exit from the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels; this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. 5. Next, we cut a tee into the pressure and return branches, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After this, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet of the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. Using a similar scheme, we install outlets in the system for connecting heated floors.
6. 6. At the next stage, we install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected by a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. 7. Next, you can begin installing the circulation pump. To do this, we install a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, assembling a bypass for the pump. Next, we remove two L-shaped sections from the tees, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. 8. Finally, we arrange a drain for pouring water into the system. To do this, you need to cut another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to increase system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To increase the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are installed in large boiler rooms, the second ones - in small rooms where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. A heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be embedded into the section of the pressure and return pipeline located between the heater and the battery.

In this case, the pressure line heats the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can operate for some time only from a heat accumulator, which is very beneficial when used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of wood or coal supplied with the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater you need a battery with a capacity of 500 liters (0.5 m3).

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main highway. Moreover, it is better to install a shut-off valve into the bypass body in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return circuit. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, you can regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially true, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of a two-pipe wiring.

Individual heating of a private home not only allows you to provide yourself with the desired comfort. It is important both for society as a whole and for the safety environment. In addition, with “spot” heating, heat losses in the mains are eliminated (and this is up to 30% or more of the power of a thermal power plant) and the need for large-scale heating is reduced. industrial construction, greenhouse gas emissions become dispersed in space and time and are much more easily “digested” by the natural cycle of substances.

Note: during a typical spring thunderstorm in the Moscow region, energy is released in the amount of approximately 6-20 Mt of TNT equivalent. And only 100 kt of it, released instantly and at a point, over the same area, will cause catastrophic destruction.

The full identification of the advantages of individual heating systems (HS) is currently hampered by 2 circumstances: technical innovations that provide radical fuel savings are very expensive and pay for themselves in 20-40 years, and professional implementation of CO, in addition to being expensive, is constrained by stereotypes of standard design (involuntary pun). When mechanically transferring them to private houses designed differently, heating 1 cubic meter . m of their volume often turns out to be more expensive than in a panel high-rise apartment, and fuel consumption does not fit into environmental standards. Therefore, for many homeowners and private developers, the question of how to make a CO with your own hands, or at least competently develop its scheme, is of burning interest.

This article is an attempt to highlight these problems from the point of view, first of all, of minimizing the costs of both the construction of the CO and heating costs in the future. The global economy and ecology are, of course, very important. But one must go to them based on the well-being of individual citizens, and not make sacrifices to a certain Leviathan.

Of particular interest as a heating object is a two-story house. In mass construction it is unprofitable, where profitability directly depends on the number of floors. Until recently, private owners also avoided second/one-and-a-half floors; it seemed complicated and a little expensive. But with rising prices for building plots and taxes on land and real estate, floors above the ground floor are becoming increasingly important for small homeowners.

At the same time, for a one-and-a-half to two-story building, it is possible to implement unconventional heating schemes that are very economical both in terms of initial costs and operation. Perhaps a builder or heating engineer with “typical” thinking will have his eyes roll out of his head when looking at such a project, but it works! It's warm!

Our ultimate goal is to develop autonomous heating with the possibility of emergency connection of alternative energy sources, the operating costs of which will not exceed those for an apartment in a high-rise building of the same area. Have you reported, my dear? Well, the text with infographics is in front of you, read it and judge for yourself.

Initial positions

Take a look at fig. No, this is not our final result. This is a heating scheme for a 2-story house with a total area of ​​120-150 square meters. m, developed according to the European DIN standard. Only CO scheme, without boiler piping. Which is even more fearful, and you can look at the trace to see what just the collector unit looks like in real life. rice. on right. How much money will be spent on pipes, taps, temperature gauges, pressure gauges and fasteners alone? Let's not talk about sad things, let's talk about the dynamics of mortgage rates. Black humor, sorry.

We won't do that. Anyhow, too. To simplify and reduce the cost of CO, we use the fact that the concept of quality of life is often taken to the point of absurdity and turns into its opposite. In relation to this case, firstly, we will refuse to control electronics and automatically maintain individually set temperatures in rooms with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. A person is not a Kramer's oncidium orchid, not a civet or a decorative pony. It was not formed in greenhouse conditions and temperature fluctuations of 2-3 degrees within the comfort range will only benefit it.

Secondly, European standards cannot tolerate breathing walls. Even construction wood, and building from living wood is directly prohibited in some countries. Why is unclear and not clearly substantiated anywhere. Perhaps for the same reason that a standard European individual, under pain of painful death, will not eat wild mushrooms and berries, but with pleasure slowly pours down his throat bourbon whiskey, which contains more fusel than in Sumy potato moonshine and which makes a person sick , accustomed to Crimean wines and Armenian cognac, immediately turns inside out.

To be more specific, DIN contains a blank, which is why it is necessary to set the industrial air circulation rate at 2 complete exchanges per hour. As a result, heat loss for ventilation accounts for 60% of the total. We will proceed from the domestic residential standard - 1 exchange/hour and 40% of ventilation heat loss. And in emergency cases (forced heating in abnormal frosts, interruptions in energy supplies), let’s remember the medical minimum: a person needs an average of 7 cubic meters to breathe. m of air per hour.

That is, we are abandoning the unspoken principle “give us a box, and we’ll somehow stuff the batteries in it” and will try to develop a comprehensive CO project in conjunction with a heated building. Let’s set ourselves the priority task of completely reducing unavoidable heat losses, then measures to insulate the house will turn out to be much more effective and cheaper.

Finally, let’s assume that we are not white-handed, and working for ourselves will not be a burden. A typical construction project involves delivery to the customer on a turnkey basis, after which the builders, having received what is due from the owner, leave for another project. It would be a sin for us to spend 3-5 days setting up a ready-made system for the building once and for all. Individual heating, which requires adjustment work, turns out to be simpler, cheaper, more reliable and creates greater comfort than standard heating, modified for an arbitrary layout; In this case, we will be able to narrow down the reserves according to the calculated coefficients.

About two boilers

In the diagram above there are 2 boilers connected in series, in cascade. And identical, i.e. not for main and emergency fuel. For what?

The fact is that heating boilers keep their rated efficiency down to 10-12% of the rated power, then it drops sharply. But for forced heating in severe frost, the boiler power must be taken 2-3 times more than calculated according to average climatic indicators. Then the limit of its adjustment drops to 3-5 times, and for complete comfort, adjustment is required during the heating season every 10-20 times, depending on the local climate. So you have to install 2 boilers of rated (design) power: switched on in cascade, they will give just the required power limits without compromising the afterburner reserve.

Note: We will try to save money here too - we will take the main boiler of the calculated capacity with an afterburner reserve, and for a long off-season or abnormal cold we will connect a simple and cheap one using an additional or alternative energy source. You'll have to turn it on/off manually, but we'll put up with it for the sake of saving money.

Things to remember!

There is such a fundamental scientific concept - entropy. It, roughly speaking, means a general desire for disorder. Everything in the world wants to get lost, become littered, gather dust, spread out, crumble, spread out. To maintain order you have to expend some energy. Let’s look at what this means in relation to CO using an example. By the way, entropy was born from thermodynamics.

Let's say it was frosty or increased ventilation was required. The boiler turned up the heat, and then, when the need for afterburner passed, it went down below nominal until the CO cooled down. Since heat loss is always directed outward, forced heating will take more time than reduced CO during cooling. This phenomenon is called thermal hysteresis and is caused by the thermal inertia of the boiler and CO. Where and how the energy of excessively burned fuel goes is an interesting question for a physicist, but requires a long discussion, so let’s just take note: the thermal inertia of CO should be kept as low as possible. In particular, do not use overly powerful boilers.

If, for example, the breadth of the Russian soul buys a boiler with a power 5-7 times greater than the calculated one, then heat loss due to hysteresis will noticeably increase in addition to the decrease in efficiency at the lower power limit, the boiler is large, the volume of its jacket is comparable to the volume of pipes and radiators. And then you have to read on the forums: “They dilute the gas with something! According to heat calculations, the consumption is 170 cubic meters per month, but Buderus consumes 380!” Of course he eats. And where should he go if, instead of the efficiency of 85% honestly deserved in proprietary tests, he is forced to work at barely forty. This does not reduce the amount of water in the shirt.

What to warm up with?

Well, it's time to get down to business. And first of all, let’s figure out what types of heating there are and which one to choose. That is, we choose a coolant, everything else flows from it.

Air

Heating stoves create natural circulation of warm air in the room. We will return to them briefly at the end, but for now we will note it as a fact: the heat capacity of air is very small, and for full-fledged air heating, either a large-area air heater or a fairly intense convective flow is required.

First case -. The heated air in a room with heated floors has little contact with walls and windows, and its temperature is low. Thermal inertia is very small, because it directly depends on the heat capacity of the coolant. Therefore, heat loss is 1.4-1.7 times lower than when heating with radiators. One thing is bad: it is difficult to push the primary coolant through a long thin tube embedded in the floor, so a separate circulation pump is needed for a warm floor. If the electricity goes out, it will stop and the floor will stop heating.

Due to their high efficiency combined with energy dependence, it is advisable to use heated floors in rooms that do not require level temperature regime, but intensively losing heat: in hallways, corridors, halls. It is undesirable in a bedroom or nursery - increased comfort at lower costs does not pay for the risk of sudden cold at night.

The second case is all-air CO from a heater furnace. in the basement through an air duct system. In buildings no higher than 2 floors, air-convection CO can be very economical, but then its efficiency rapidly decreases. It was widely used in antiquity, but already in the Middle Ages, due to the increase in the number of storeys in buildings, it fell out of use. Currently, there is no method for calculating air-convection CO, so its construction is the lot of those who like technical experiments on themselves.

Steam

Heating with superheated water steam under pressure is almost completely devoid of thermal inertia and, other things being equal, allows you to reduce boiler power (and fuel consumption) by 20-30% However, the use of steam CO is permitted only in industrial premises with continuous qualified supervision and care of the system: the probability of an accident is significant, superheated steam is extremely, even fatal, and traumatic , and steam radiators heat up to 120-140 degrees. The assembly of steam CO is complex and time-consuming, because the only possible material for the system components is steel.

Water and antifreeze

To date the best option for a private residential building is water heating: The heat capacity of water is greater than that of most other liquids, which makes CO more compact, but its viscosity is low. This allows you to achieve a small thermal inertia by accelerating the circulation of the coolant in the system; how - more on this later. Plastics can be used to build water CO, which makes work easier and reduces additional heat loss.

As for solutions of ethylene glycol in water - antifreeze - their thermal properties are no worse. But antifreezes are expensive and toxic, so careful and durable sealing of the system is required. In addition, the choice of boiler type is limited and its piping becomes more expensive, because the use of emergency discharge of overheated coolant into the sewer system is excluded.

It is advisable to use CO with antifreeze in temporarily inhabited buildings, say, rented out in winter. But then they will need to provide an independent power supply - the piping of antifreeze boilers is, as a rule, electromechanical and controlled electronically. The CO itself will also be more expensive: its fittings must be designed for the sub-zero temperature range, and the design must prevent the deposition of water condensate from the outside air.

What to heat with?

The second main issue is fuel for the boiler. The most economical option is gas heating using natural gas.. In terms of the ratio of energy intensity and price, it has no equal yet. 1 kJ from liquefied bottled propane-butane costs about three times more, in addition, 30 kg of gas in a standard 50 liter cylinder per day is enough only south of Rostov-on-Don. Electricity as the main energy carrier is also not an option yet: its energy release, taking into account the efficiency of the system, is 0.95 kW of heat per 1 kW from the network, and costs 1 kW/h 3 rubles.

Note: in some cases, the use of stationary electrical heating appliances may still be justified, see below.

But then how to heat it if the house is without gas? Let’s solve this problem this way: we’ll determine the required total fuel energy reserve for the season as a whole, based on it and the energy intensity (calorific value) of the fuel, the volume of its purchase, and then, based on local prices, we’ll decide what kind of fuel the boiler is needed for. The same technique applies to the emergency additional boiler.

Note: The calorific value of wood is highly dependent on its moisture content. When wood is dampened from room-dry (15% humidity) to stored in an open woodpile (60% humidity), the calorific value drops by 2.5 times.

Calorific value different types fuel, see table on the right. Wood fuel is assumed to be room-dry. More precisely, the local type of fuel can be determined by its supplier and/or municipal heating engineers. To bring the boiler power to it, you need to remember that 1 W = 1 J/s. That is, let’s first determine how many kW the boiler should develop on average during the heating season:

P = (ξp)/η (1),

where η is the rated efficiency of the boiler;

ξ – seasonal boiler power utilization factor.

For Moscow ξ = 0.5, towards Arkhangelsk it increases proportionally to 0.79, and towards Krasnodar it also proportionally drops to 0.35.

Now we multiply P (in kilowatts) by 3.6 (so many kiloseconds per hour) and by 24, the number of hours in a day, to obtain the average daily energy consumption of CO:

e(kJ) = 86.4t(1000s)*P(kW) (2),

and, multiplying it by the duration of the heating season in days, we obtain the total seasonal energy requirement for heating E. Dividing it by the calorific value of the fuel Q, we obtain the purchase weight of the fuel in kilograms:

M(kg) = E(kJ)/Q(kJ/kg) (3),

well, everyone knows how many kilograms are in a ton. All that remains is to compare prices and decide which will be cheaper.

Note: Sometimes reference books give the calorific value of fuel in kilocalories (kcal) per kg. The conversion to joules is simple: 1 J = 0.2388 cal, and 1 cal = 4.3 J.

Gas consumption is calculated in the same way, only everywhere instead of kilograms there will be cubic meters. To get the average monthly gas consumption (this may be necessary when laying out family budget), we simply divide the total consumption by the number of months in the heating season.

Note: in online directories, heat loss calculators, trade declarations, etc., you can find the calorific value in kW/kg or kW/cub.m. Do not believe this data - a watt and its derivatives are units of power, energy release per unit of time. If it is not immediately indicated how long the fuel was burned, that such figures were obtained, this is a fool’s letter. To calculate the amount of fuel and its costs, you need to know the total energy release, regardless of the time of its use, because We pay for energy, not for power. How can it be determined if it is not known how long these kilowatts were emitted? If 1 kg of fuel burns completely in 1 s, developing a power of 1 kW, then the energy in this kilogram is 1 kJ. And if it burned with the same power for 1 hour, then 3600 kJ or 3.6 MJ of energy was released. By default, it is assumed that we mean (kWh)/kg, then the same unit of energy comes out, with the same dimension as the joule. But the traders, having secretly removed the *ch (like a typo), shamelessly enter any fraudulent nonsense into the column, and there is no way to check it.

Heating in the house

We will calculate heating for our home in the following order:

• Let's sketch out a preliminary design of the house, based on available funds and a building plot.
• We will zoning the house according to the degree of required comfort of the premises.
• Let's find the heat loss for each room separately.
• If necessary, if a design project is being developed for a new building, we will finalize the preliminary design.
• We will place heating devices in the rooms: radiator batteries and, possibly, additional stationary heaters.
• Also, for each room we will determine the total thermal power of the radiators, and from it the required number of sections.
• We will select a system for constructing the CO and a circuit for distributing the coolant, and based on them, additional correction factors for calculating the boiler power. Here we will decide what we will do ourselves, and for what we will have to hire craftsmen.
• Let us calculate, using the main (mandatory) and additional coefficients, the required boiler power.

After this, it remains to calculate the footage and nomenclature of pipes, the number and nomenclature of connectors, valves, automation devices, the nature and scope of work, the required tools and materials, etc. Based on the calculation data, an estimate for the construction of the plant is drawn up, but this is the subject of a separate serious discussion. Here we will limit ourselves to calculating the boiler, because The methodology for calculating fuel consumption has already been given above.

Comfort zones

The basis for economical energy consumption for heating is careful zoning of the house according to the required/permissible degree of comfort of the rooms. A private homeowner, not constrained by standard standards and the cost of paying specialist designers, can be recommended to zoning a building that is more detailed than is customary for mass development for potential buyers, but which saves more heat:

1. Complete comfort zone – temperature range 22-24 degrees, no more than 2 external walls. This includes, (especially –), rooms for elderly parents, Gym, and so on.
2. Sleeping area – except , these are rooms general purpose, where the entire personal life of their inhabitants is concentrated: guest rooms, servants’ rooms, premises for rent. Temperature range – 21-25 degrees.
3. Living area - dining room, office for mental work, hostess's boudoir, etc. Temperature range - according to sanitary standard, 18-27 degrees.
4. Economic zone - here people actively work, fully dressed for the season. Most likely, there are sources of additional heating. This includes the kitchen, home workshop, winter garden, etc. The upper limit of temperature is not standardized; the lower limit, in the absence of people, can drop to 15-16 degrees.
5. Temporary use area, or passage area - staircase, garage, etc. Because Since people appear here casually and in outerwear, the lower temperature limit is set at 12 degrees. For heating, it is advisable to use heated floors or ceiling infrared (IR) emitters; see about them below, in the section on electric heating. Heating radiators are emergency ones that turn on temporarily to protect the boiler from overheating.
6. Utility zone - no heat sources are installed in the premises of this zone, the temperature range is not standardized at all, as long as it is above zero. Heating is carried out due to heat transfer from neighboring rooms. You can also install emergency CO radiators here.

Layout

If the CO is designed for an already built house, then nothing can be done - you will have to zone what is there and the heat loss will be whatever it turns out to be. But still less than according to standard calculation methods. If the CO fits into the house at the preliminary design stage, then you need to be guided by the following rules:

• A comfortable room should have no more than 2 external walls, i.e. no more than 1 external corner. Heat loss through corners is maximum.
• For a boiler, even a wall-mounted one, it is better to allocate a separate room, this will increase its average seasonal efficiency. The minimum requirements for fire safety regulations are a volume of 8 cubic meters. m, ceiling height from 2.4 m, there must be an opening window with an area of ​​10% of the boiler room floor area, a free flow of air is required either through a gap under the door of 40 mm, or through a grille with an air filter in it (preferably), or through supply valves from the street. The boiler room must have a separate chimney that does not communicate with general ventilation and other smoke channels (say, with a fireplace chimney). Finishing is made of non-combustible materials, partitions with adjacent rooms are not less than brick (27 cm).
• It is advisable to locate the rooms of the 1st zone adjacent to the boiler room (furnace room) in order to more fully utilize the waste heat of the boiler. But the door to the boiler room must be made either from the street or from rooms in non-residential areas - utility room, passage, utility room, except for the garage.
• It is preferable to locate the bathroom either adjacent to the boiler room or closer to the center of the building.
• The premises of the utility, passage and utility areas should be located in the corners, near the windward, northern or north-eastern walls.
• In addition, it is advisable to use rooms in the utility zone as thermal buffers between zones 1-3 and 5-6.

Examples of standard (according to standard, but wisely applied standards) and non-standard planning solutions are shown in Fig. Designations: G - living room, S - master bedroom, D - children's room, KR - room of the owners' parents (for grandmother), K - kitchen, Cab - owner's study, Tl - toilet, Vn - bathroom, Gr - dressing room, P - hallway , T – furnace (boiler room), Ch – closet, X – hall, F – lantern above the hall made of polycarbonate on a flat roof, Gar – garage.

Both houses have a total area of ​​less than 150 sq. m. m, and 4 acres are enough for construction, and there is still room for a lawn and garden in the backyard. However, not every wealthy city dweller can afford a living room of 30-35 square meters and a bedroom of 15-20 square meters.

The house on the left is for a family with an established way of life and traditional thinking. The nursery was taken to the corner, and grandmother's room was taken to the furnace room because the first-born was strong, and it was useful for the old lady to warm the bones. If the grandmother, in her own words, lives in the world until she needs a second nursery, the owner agrees to give her the office.

The house on the right is for a young independent family. Thanks to the rather large irregularly shaped hall, it was possible to shove (as the designer put it) the doors into the rooms and push the bathroom into the center of the building. The roof of the built-in garage (it is not on a plinth and its ceiling is lower) is more than 1.5 m lower than the roof of the house. By the time the parents pay off the mortgage and need a second nursery, the plan is to build a one-and-a-half-story building over the garage with one large room and give it to the eldest daughter.

Heat loss calculation

We will calculate the heat loss of rooms 1-4 as usual, without taking into account the internal heat exchange in the building. We will count 5 and 6 for all 4 walls, or even for all 5-6 walls, if we are talking about a non-standard layout. For the calculation, we will need, in addition to knowledge of the structure of the wall and the thickness of its constituent layers in meters, the following values:

1. Thermal resistance of materials Rt or specific heat loss of materials qп.
2. The average temperature in January (or the coldest month in your area), can be found from the local weather service or on the Roshydromet website, or on the website of the local municipality.
3. Average temperature for winter, information – there.
4. Seasonal boiler power utilization factor, already used above.

Note: Specific heat losses are sometimes given in kcal/m*hour, then they need to be converted to W/m^2, using the relationships between joule and calorie and between joule and watt.

In standard design, heat loss is calculated based on its specific values ​​and the temperature of the coldest week of the year. The results are quite accurate for large multi-storey buildings(tables of specific heat loss, generally speaking, are developed separately for buildings of similar design). A small private house's heat needs to be calculated based on the thermal resistance of the materials. Based on the specific heat loss, a private owner can accurately calculate the heat outflow through a cold attic and the front door.

Some calculation data are shown in Fig. But, generally speaking, Rt and qп should be taken from the specification for the material. For the same brick and foam plastic, they differ significantly not only from manufacturer to manufacturer, but also from batch to batch. If the supplier does not show the material passport or there is no Rt or qp in it, it is better to buy somewhere else. This is the case when the miser pays not twice, but throughout his life.

The actual calculation is simple: we multiply the tabular value of Rt for a given material by the thickness of its layer in meters, take the inverse value from the result, this is nothing more than the thermal conductivity of a given layer, and multiply it by the area of ​​the calculated surface and by the temperature difference (temperature gradient) on both sides her sides; if there are several layers in the way of heat different materials(for example, plaster-brick-insulation), then the Rt of each layer is added up. As a result, we obtain the heat loss flow from the room in watts Qp. If the calculation is carried out using specific heat loss qp, we multiply their tabular value by the temperature difference and surface area, but calculating a multilayer based on qp is already more difficult; for this they need to be converted to Rt.

Calculations are carried out separately for walls, floors, ceilings, windows and doors. For the maximum temperature gradient ΔT we take the minimum permissible room temperature, and for its minimum:

• For walls and windows - average temperature January, divided by the coefficient of seasonal use of boiler power ξ.
• For the ceiling - the average daily temperature of the coldest week of winter, as calculated by specific heat loss.
• For the floor - the average winter temperature of the area.

From the point of view of standard design, this method is a complete heresy. But we will take into account a circumstance that does not apply in high-rise buildings, namely: the draft of the boiler in a small private house provides a ventilation minimum of air exchange with a large excess. Then, as we are our own masters in our own home, we let air into the boiler room in 2 ways: through the gap under the door from the kitchen or a grille with a filter above the floor in the toilet/bathroom, and from the street through valves in the outer wall.

In moderate cold weather, the boiler room valves are closed. Suddenly an abnormal frost strikes, we open them, limit the air flow to the boiler from the house or completely block it. We provide a “breathing” of at least 7 cubic meters per hour per person in the old-fashioned way: with vents or, more modernly, ventilation valves in the rooms. There is no European quality of life here, but closing/opening the valves is no more difficult or difficult than frying an egg. Which Europe also eats. And with such a construction of a heating system, the cost of heating a private house is lower than the monthly fee for heat in a city apartment - a reality. Finally, if the owner has his head and hands in place, then who is stopping him from equipping the valves with temperature automatics? Then everything will be fine with the quality of life.

Installing batteries

Which?

There are 4 types of heating radiators on sale:

1. Thin-walled steel is the cheapest.
2. Aluminum.
3. Bimetallic steel-aluminum is the most expensive.
4. Cast iron, but not the old “accordions”, but profiled ones.

The former are more suitable for regions with mild winters and a short heating season. With intense combustion, they can corrode, and with it, water hammers are possible in the system, which thin steel cannot withstand.

Aluminum batteries transfer heat well and provide low thermal inertia of the system; The thermal conductivity of aluminum is very high, and the heat capacity is low. But they are fragile, in regions with sudden changes in weather they can leak from water hammer. In addition, they do not mate well with metal pipelines; the coefficient of thermal expansion (TCE) of aluminum is high. It is best to use them in regions north of the black earth strip, where winters are consistently cold, then the disadvantages of aluminum do not affect them.

In bimetallic radiators, aluminum sections are strung on a thin, durable core made of special steel. Bimetal has no technical disadvantages; bimetallic batteries can be used anywhere without restrictions, but they are very expensive.

Cast iron is eternal, completely ignores water hammer, and is second only to steel in terms of cheapness. However, it is heavy and requires an assistant. And most importantly, it has a very high heat capacity for a metal. The thermal inertia of CO and heat losses in it due to hysteresis will be large.

Note: All the tricks described above and below for saving heat in a system with “cast iron” are invalid. It should be considered as standard.

Radiator calculations

Calculating batteries for rooms is simple: divide the previously found heat loss value by the thermal power of one section, multiply by a safety factor of 1.2 and round to the nearest largest integer, we get the number of sections per room. But please note: it does not say “for the rated capacity of the section.”

The fact is that the nameplate power is given for a supply temperature of 90 degrees and a return temperature of 70 degrees. In high-rise buildings this is optimal. But our CO is not so large and we can reduce the supply/return temperature ratio to 80/60 degrees. You can’t do less, if the return flow cools below 50 degrees, then either the boiler bypass will work (see below) and money for heat will go down the drain, or, even worse, acidic condensate may form in the boiler, which can quickly and completely disable it. What will we achieve with this? Less heat loss from batteries directly into the walls. Significantly smaller, because The heat transfer of a heated body is proportional to the 4th degree of its temperature.

This means that in order to correctly calculate the batteries, we need to recalculate their power to a smaller temperature range. The passport temperature ratio is 90/70 = 1.2857, and ours is 80/60 = 1.3333. The correction factor for batteries will be (1.2857/1.3333)^4 = 0.865. We multiply the rated power of the section by it for calculation.

Where to put it?

Placing batteries is also a delicate matter and requires ingenuity. Take a look at pos. And the drawing there is typical, in the niches under the windows. That's right, by the way, a thermal curtain in front of the window greatly reduces losses through it. Calculated values: bedroom – 4 sections, living room – 8, children’s room – 6.

Now let's go up to level 1 of ingenuity, pos. B. There are still 8 sections left in the living room, 2 by 4. And the heat curtain was not damaged: it is created by stacking flows from 2 batteries. But their rears no longer heat the outer wall, but the partition, so that in the nursery there are enough 4 sections. 2 – saved, and not only in terms of purchases, but also in terms of boiler power, see below.

Are radiators on the side walls unsightly? And instead of the usual window sill we will put a figured one, as they say - creative, shown with a green dotted line. You can grow plants on it, arrange a work area, etc. At pos. B is an option that is interesting for, for example, the Southern Federal District and Ciscaucasia. There are no radiators in the living room at all (comfort zone 3), and IR emitters in the form of paintings (more on them later), set to 18 degrees, are hung on the walls. Another 8 sections have been saved, and the electricity consumption for IR heating is half as much as the savings on gas.

Note: This is also affected by the fact that a person emits an average of 60 W of heat. Batteries don’t sense it, but IR image sensors do.

About battery shielding

In most cases, batteries will still have to be installed in window sill niches. Then the losses from them directly into the wall can be reduced significantly by applying, see the figure on the right. The aero visor and the hot air injector are bent from sheet metal or thin galvanized steel, and the IR reflector will be covered with a piece of fiber insulation foiled on both sides.

Choosing a system

Here you need to know that the thermal inertia of CO is smaller, the faster water circulates in it. And the speed of its circulation, in turn, depends on the pressure in the system. As far as the strength of pipes and batteries allows (taking into account the possibility of water hammer), the pressure should be increased.

Open or closed?

Until recently, open or atmospheric COs (on the left in the figure below) were built everywhere; they are simple and require a minimum of materials. Now it is prohibited to build new open-type JIs in most countries for the following main reasons, besides which there are many others:

1. To create a pressure of 1 atm (excess atmosphere), which is approximately equal to 1 bar, you need to raise the expansion tank by 10.5 m.
2. The expander requires a large volume, which increases the inertia of the CO and the risk of water hammer.
3. Regardless of any insulation of the expander, its heat loss is unacceptably high.
4. Open CO requires regular maintenance and deaeration.

Closed COs are more complex and costly to build, but they meet modern requirements and can operate without supervision for an unlimited time. The general diagram of a closed CO is shown on the right in Fig:

Its part to the right of the sections marked A-A is quite accessible for self-production. What is to the left is actually the boiler piping. This is a separate topic, firstly. Secondly, as many lines of boilers are on sale, there are so many fittings for them, described in detail in the company’s specifications. Therefore, we indicate only, for orientation, the purpose of its parts:

• T1 – bypass (bypass, shunt) of the boiler. If the return temperature drops to 50 degrees, thermal valve 10 is triggered by sensor 12 and transfers part of the water from the supply to the return. Valve 5 closes the bypass if the heating is switched to the emergency backup electric boiler VIN (see below and below) 14.
• T2 – circulation pump bypass (simply pump) 6. Triggered by supply thermometer 3 (the same thermometer is desirable on the return) in case of supply overheating due to pump malfunction or power failure. In this case, CO goes into a weakly heating and uneconomical, but energy-independent thermosiphon mode.
• 2 – system pressure gauge.
• 4 – storage vessel (thermal damper), necessary to prevent water hammer. Most often it is combined with a DHW boiler, because The CO is not connected to it directly, but by a heat exchanger coil. If operation of the CO from an alternative energy source (AI) 13 is provided, then a second coil is built into the damper if the AI ​​is a solar collector (SC), or a low-voltage heating element if the AI ​​is a solar battery (SB).
• 7 – heating radiators.
• 15 – air drain valve, installed at the highest point of the system.
• 8 – distribution and collection manifolds, needed to prevent water hammer due to the difference in water pressure along the height of the floor. The number of distributing/collecting pipes is based on the number of floors. They are located approximately in the middle of the building's height. IN one-story house Not needed.
• 9 – membrane expansion vessel with emergency technological release of water into the sewer. Serves to compensate for thermal expansion of the coolant.
• 11 – CO replenishment from the water supply. In the simplest case - a float valve and a sediment filter. If the water is bad, additional equipment for its preparation is installed. The water preparation system for hot water supply is not shown, because does not apply to CO.
• 14 – emergency backup vortex induction heater VIN. Operates from the house electrical network or from AI-SB through a DC/AC 220V 50/60 Hz inverter.

How to distribute heat?

Schemes for distributing coolant to heating devices are, firstly, dead-end and reversible. In the first, the water flow is closed only through radiators, heated floors, heated towel rails, etc. Secondly, there is a partial direct flow of water from the supply to the return. Revolving circuits have the lowest thermal inertia, minimum pipes and allow operation of the boiler without a bypass, because the excessively cooling return itself draws the hot supply from the batteries to itself, but they work well only with very long branches (beams) of the supply/return, therefore they are used mainly in large industrial premises: workshops, warehouses.

About Lenigradka

In this case, Leningradka is not a variety card game preference, and the so-called. Leningrad heat distribution scheme, see fig.

Scheme of SO “Lenigradka”

Leningradka is extremely simple, it requires a record small number of pipes, and the distribution branches in private houses are often comparable in length to industrial ones. Therefore, Lenigradka has recently been actively discussed in RuNet. You can watch the video below for more details.

Video: Leningradka heating system

• Single-pipe - the batteries are connected in series, a single pipe goes only to the return.
• Two-pipe - batteries are connected in parallel between the supply and return pipes.
• Combined - successive sections (lowers) are connected as separate batteries in a two-pipe circuit.

One pipe

A single-pipe system (see figure) requires the least amount of materials for construction.

However, it is not widespread due to the following disadvantages:

• Pump P and boiler bypass T are required even in open CO.
• Damper-accumulator A requires a large capacity, from 150 liters, which increases the thermal inertia of CO.
• Adjusting the batteries is interdependent: if there are more than 3 of them on the beam and they are all different, then you can spend half a season adjusting the CO. Moreover, expensive three-way bypass valves are needed.
• The batteries themselves heat unevenly, because of this they are prone to self-airing (the solubility of gases in water increases as the temperature drops), so each radiator needs a separate air drainage.
• The pump needs twice the usual power, from 40-50 W for every 10 kW of boiler power.

Two pipes

A two-pipe scheme (see figure) requires more pipes, but less fittings, so in terms of materials it is not much more expensive than a single-pipe scheme, only it requires more work.

Damper capacity – from 50 liters. Some types of gas boilers, when operating in a two-pipe circuit with a beam length of up to 12-15 m, allow operation without a bypass. The adjustment of the radiators is practically independent; only one air vent is needed. The most common scheme.

Combi

The combined circuit, see Fig., is almost completely unknown to typical “heater operators”, because it is not suitable for one-story houses, and with more than 2 floors it combines the disadvantages of one- and two-pipe.

But just in a 2-story house, although a circulator with a bypass is required here, it has the advantages of both:

• Damper - from 50 l, like a 2-pipe.
• If the upper distribution line M is made from a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm or more and runs under the ceiling (it can be hidden under a cornice or plasterboard false ceiling), then a damper is not needed at all.
• If, when planning a building, heating devices of approximately the same power are brought into depressions, then the entire descent can be adjusted with one simple ball valve, because The heat loss of the second floor through the ceiling is greater than that of the first floor through the floor.

The “combi-two-story” system has only one drawback: there is no standard calculation method. To develop it correctly, you need a lot of experience and professional flair.

Wiring

There are 2 piping schemes for devices: contour (on the left in the figure) and radial-beam, also on the right. They have no obvious advantages over each other. The beam pipe requires a slightly smaller meter of pipes if the boiler room is in the center of the house, but this will work out depending on the layout. In general, if you design in good conscience or for yourself, and not for the sake of more money, then you need to stop at the contour one: what if something happens to the pipes, the floor will have to be broken at the wall, and not in the middle of the room.

About pipes

The best pipes for CO are propylene. Durability has been proven by 30 years of experience; they do not require additional thermal insulation when walled or in grooves. They are not only indifferent to water hammer, but also absorb it, because plastic has little elasticity and is very viscous, and the tensile strength of propylene is better than that of other steels. According to TKR, they are perfectly compatible with any metals, i.e. aluminum batteries on propylene pipes can be used anywhere. They are not overly expensive, and assembly is simple: you just need to know how to handle a soldering iron for propylene, which you can do. The resistance to water flow is very small, which, at the same pressure in the CO, will give faster circulation and less thermal inertia.

Steel isn't so bad either: it lasts forever and is cheap. But it’s difficult to work with: you need welding, a powerful pipe bender, etc. Copper is eternal, you can work with it on your knees: a pipe cutter, a pipe bender, a mandrel for flaring the ends and scraping (rimer) require small hand tools. It is connected by soldering, which is also easy. However, copper is very expensive, it requires insulation of pipes even when passing through walls and ceilings, and it resists water hammer worse than aluminum. In general, for the rich and ambitious: I have copper, not something like that! Why not gold or silver? They are stronger and more expensive.

Anecdote from the 90s: Two new Russians meet: “Oh, bro, you have a new tie! - Yes, I just gave you 300 bucks! “Listen, you’ve gone astray!” There’s a boutique around the corner, they sell exactly the same ones for 500.”

We exclude metal-plastic altogether. Claims that it can be installed with one adjustable wrench are either lies or ignorance. You need special tools, the same as for copper. Then, as much as possible permissible temperature PVC coverings – 80 degrees. And the most important thing is that the fittings (special connecting fittings) leak, even if you crack, and so far not a single manufacturer has managed to cope with them. In CO, this is fraught not so much with a leak, but with airing at full speed, which threatens a real disaster.

About slopes

Any CO will at some point have to work on a thermosiphon, without a pump. To ensure that the boiler does not overheat and the rooms are warm enough, the installation of the supply and return must be carried out with slopes of 5 mm/m, see fig. on right. “Professional” hacks often neglect this, hoping for a thermogradient pressure in the pipes, but for yourself, of course, it’s better to try and do it reliably.

Boiler calculation

Now you can take on the boiler. With the described approach to designing a heating system, we do not ask questions about the insufficiency/excess of its thermal power compared to that of radiators (and these are subtle and complex questions). Forced heating, if necessary, will be provided by a supply temperature reserve (we lowered it), but more or less normal operation on a thermosiphon - with an accumulator and pipe slope. Then the boiler power is easily calculated:

• We add up the power of all heating devices supplied with water from the boiler.
• We multiply by 1.4, we took into account 40% of heat loss for ventilation.
• We divide the result by the seasonal power utilization factor.
• We divide the second result by the efficiency of the pre-selected boiler.
• We select the nearest one with higher power from the chosen line of boilers.
• If its efficiency is lower than predetermined, we repeat the calculation; You may have to take a more powerful boiler or a different manufacturer.

For example, for the houses described above, with proper insulation, the total heat loss will be about 8 kW without ventilation. The power of all radiators and other heaters was 9.5 kW. Then: (9.5*1.4)/(0.5*0.85) = 31.3 kW. We choose a 30 kW boiler, and a 3 kW VIN for it. According to a typical calculation, the output was 40 kW in the form of 2 20 kW boilers, which cost twice as much as one 30 kW with VIN.

Video: example of heating a private house with an area of ​​300 sq.m.

Attention: the editors are not responsible for the content and quality of the video!

Electric heating

Here we are not talking about electric boilers; electricity is expensive and you can install them only if there is no fuel at all. We will talk about additional water heating and heating devices. Electric heating with their help in the off-season may be cheaper than using solid or liquid fuel.

VIN

The design of the VIN, which was mentioned above, is an electrical transformer with a short-circuited secondary winding, which is also a magnetic circuit. The product contains a section of steel pipe, on which a primary winding made of a thick copper busbar is superimposed, see fig. Eddy currents (Foucault currents from school physics) are induced in the secondary, partially in the water, and heat it. VINs are eternal and are distinguished by a rare “oakiness”: they are not afraid of even a lightning strike and the nightmare of all electricians - zero burnout at the substation.

But their main advantage is zero thermal inertia. The contact area of ​​the secondary with water is thousands of times larger than that of a heating element, and its volume in the pipe is hundreds of times less than in the boiler tank. Due to this, if in the off-season, when the fuel boiler is still breathing at low efficiency, you turn it off and turn on the VIN, then the costs of electric heating will be less than the costs of coal and comparable to gas ones.

This is due to the fact that the VIN is indifferent to the return temperature. There is no flame in the furnace, no exhaust gases, acid vapors simply have nowhere to come from. You can reduce the supply temperature to at least 40 degrees, almost completely eliminating induced heat losses (they, as we remember, are proportional to the 4th power of the battery temperature). In this case, the fuel boiler will burn fuel in vain to distill water through the bypass.

IR paintings

IR heaters have also already been mentioned. They come in 2 types: film (on the left in the figure) and LED (IR pictures), also in the center and on the right. The first ones are relatively cheap, these are the same electric fireplaces, only low-temperature ones. They are not very economical and are suitable for temporary local heating, say, in a country house. They are dangerous in bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity.

Infrared heaters – pictures

IR paintings are a different matter. They are essentially digital photo frames, i.e. The image can be changed and stored in your memory. But in IR pictures, each pixel contains, in addition to color (R, G and B) emitters, infrared emitters. The efficiency of IR LEDs is high, but the main thing is that the radiation directivity is also high; back and to the sides they hardly warm up. The desired temperature in the room is set from the remote control. Therefore, IR pictures can be used to economically heat rooms of 4-6 zones or even 2-3 in warm areas. The only bad thing is that these devices are very expensive.

Note: IR emitters are also available without a picture, ceiling-mounted ones for heating garages and utility rooms. They are cheaper, but not much.

alternative energy

In the Russian Federation and generally higher than the subtropics in geographical latitude solar alternative heating as the main one in the foreseeable future has little prospects: insolation in winter on a clear day does not exceed 300 W/sq. m. Taking into account the efficiency of energy converters, a panel area of ​​tens and hundreds of square meters is required. m, which is unrealistic in private houses. For example, the cheapest energy-independent house offered, with 26 square meters of residential space (a common room and a tiny bedroom + a small kitchenette and a combined bathroom, like in a railway carriage), costs more than $500,000.

(APU) are also more expensive good home and require a large area for installation, and land is becoming more expensive. In addition, the winds in Russia are generally not strong. Solar collectors are of some interest, because... you can do them yourself. But homemade hot water is provided only in the summer. Branded models that heat water up to 70 degrees in winter are literally crammed with the wonders of high technology and are very expensive.

Device solar collector shown in Fig. in the center. The panel body, made of gas-tight material, is carefully sealed and equally carefully insulated on all sides except the front. The inside is blackened together with the coil with a special paint that absorbs thermal radiation well and is closed with a 2-5 layer glass unit with sealant. The glass is also special, heat-reflecting. The panel is then filled with argon or carbon dioxide under pressure, the more the better. Branded models with an internal pressure of more than 10 bar are known. This design creates a strong greenhouse effect; The CPL of collectors reaches 78%

Solar cells are a layer of high-purity silicon on a conductive substrate, onto which current-collecting tracks are deposited in a vacuum, on the right in Fig. Electricity is generated due to the photoelectric effect in the semiconductor silicon. The cheapest batteries are made of polycrystalline silicon, but their efficiency is only a few percent; they are suitable for powering a radio while camping and recharging AA batteries.

Batteries made of monocrystalline silicon (monosilicon) are used as AI for heating; their efficiency is up to 30% or more. They are steadily becoming cheaper, and when installed on the roof (on the left in the figure) in the Moscow region they are capable of developing a power of up to 3-5 kW in winter on a cloudy day, which is enough to power a VIN through an inverter. In general, the matter is promising and needs to be monitored. Moreover, to connect the VIN, you do not need to redo the CO.

Lastly about stoves

Stove heating certainly creates a healthy microclimate in the house, because... brick oven breathes and supports optimal humidity air with temperature fluctuations. You can also make metal stoves breathe by lining them with soapstone mats or simply mineral cardboard. And building a furnace will cost no more than good water CO.

In contact with

Classmates

How to make heating in a private house? Perhaps this will be the very first and most important question that you will ask if you decide to move from a noisy city apartment to your own cozy house or if you want to radically remodel the stove heating system inherited from your grandparents and replace it with something more modern and automated. The level of comfort, coziness and warmth in your home will depend on what decision you make now. Which heating method will be the most efficient and economical? What type of heating is best for you? It's time to get answers to all these questions! And it is best to start with general concepts and principles.

What heating to do in a private house

Modern heating systems must meet certain requirements.

Correct ratio prices and quality. When we talk about quality, we mean high efficiency, in which the maximum required amount of heat is provided for the minimum possible amount of money.

Maximum automation available. Modern heating systems should not require frequent intervention in their operation. Almost all home owners want to set up their heating system once and leave it alone. This is possible when using high-quality modern heating systems.

Reliability. Obviously, no one wants to repair the heating system every six months from failures and breakdowns. Also, in addition to the requirements for the quality of its parts and the system itself as a whole, it is worth mentioning the price - it is unlikely that anyone will prefer a heating system whose price is comparable to the cost of a house.

1. Easy to install. The big advantage of the heating system will be the ease of installation and minimal costs for this. Sometimes, to install a heating system in a private house with your own hands, you need to buy special tools that may not be useful in the future.

The cost of a heating system in a private home depends on the price of materials, the level of thermal insulation, the number of doors, windows, the fuel of the system itself, the heated floor and the complexity of the system.

External conditions are the factor that primarily influences the choice of heating system for a private home. This also includes both the subtleties in the installation of each heating system and the ever-increasing price of fuel.

If you arrange energy resources in ascending order of price, they will look like this:

Main gas;

• Liquefied gas;

  Waste oil;

  Electricity.

This list may vary slightly depending on region, however general form it won't change. Gas heating in a private home will always be the cheapest option, while heating using electricity will require the greatest costs.

It is worth remembering that fossil resources are not infinite, they will not fall much in price, and recently there has been a tendency to switch to the use of renewable energy sources. At the moment, a heating system in a private home based on such sources is quite expensive, but operating costs will be extremely low.

How to make economical heating in a private house

Heating with wood and coal

Making stove heating is a traditional and widespread option for a heating system in private homes. Most often, a large Russian stove is found in village houses. Having significant dimensions and weight, it takes a long time to heat up, but it also does not give off heat very quickly. The heating of the air in the house depends on the temperature of the stove itself and the distance of the rooms from it - the further the room, the cooler it will be.

If a private house has a large area, then you can make stoves in every room. But heating them every day is not the easiest or quickest task, and besides, each of the stoves will need regular cleaning. What option do those who cannot afford heating with electricity and do not have access to a gas main have?

Many people in this situation heat private homes using water. Since often in remote settlements the most accessible type of fuel is coal and firewood, they are used to heat the stove on which a boiler with water is mounted. The heated water moves through pipes from the boiler to individual rooms; in this way, heating a private house is not very expensive.

If the task is to arrange heating in a small country house that is not intended for permanent residence, then the best option for such housing is to install a “potbelly stove.” Long-burning pyrolysis furnaces are gaining popularity. They contain a significant amount of firewood, which does not burn immediately due to the limited supply of air inside the stove. In this way, the room is heated and maintained without the need to frequently add firewood to the stove.

Gas heating

Even if there is no central gas pipeline in a private house, it is possible to install gas heating. In this case, an autonomous gas tank is installed near the house.

If gas is supplied to the house (or there is such a possibility), then the owner of the house gets access to the cheapest fuel. Gas heating usually consists of a boiler and radiators in the house. Unlike a stove system, a gas heating system can be set up once and no longer need to maintain the heating process. Automation will work, which needs to be monitored occasionally.

In a private house, you can install a one- or two-pipe heating system. The first will be cheaper due to a reduction in the number of pipes themselves. In this article we will also pay attention to how to make single-pipe heating in a private house, however, such a system is demanding on the temperature of heating water in the radiators (at least 90 degrees Celsius) so that there is enough heat at the end of the heating chain. For the same purpose, high pressure must be ensured in such a system. These factors lead to increased wear and tear of the entire system. Therefore, most often they use a two-pipe system for heating a private house. Its peculiarity lies in the presence of two pipes for each battery in the house - supply and return. This way ensures uniform heating of all radiators and makes it possible to set the required temperature in each room of the house. Naturally, the cost of such a system will be higher.

When using a boiler-generator, the price of heating a private house depends on the specific fuel. If you use diesel fuel, heating will be relatively inexpensive, and liquid fuel is quite convenient to store and use. The pipe diameter also affects the savings. Forced coolant circulation requires a smaller size than natural circulation. Accordingly, pipes for a forced circulation system will be cheaper, but this option includes an electric pump, which adds electricity costs.

Electrical heating

Heating with electricity in the house in which they live all year round, it won't be cheap. If making heating in a private home, the price of which does not exceed your cost plans, is a fundamental point for you, then it is better to try to use other heating systems and purchase more expensive equipment. The advantages of electric convectors and electric boilers are that they have a low price and require simple installation. Compared to heating systems that use wood or diesel fuel, electric heaters have a significantly lower fire hazard. They also allow you to manually adjust the temperature, which directly affects savings.

However, heating with electricity is only good for houses that are visited from time to time, since installing a more expensive heating system will take a very long time to pay off or may not pay off at all. An electric boiler is also suitable as a backup or additional heat source if the main source runs on coal or wood.

To save money, you can install solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems.

To summarize, we can say that the cheapest fuel for heating will be gas. Far behind in this aspect are firewood and coal; liquid fuels will be even more expensive. Electricity will always be the most expensive. As for the heating systems themselves, no clear conclusions can be drawn here. A lot will depend on the area of ​​the house, the materials from which the house is built, and the distance from the highway (in the case of gas heating).

In order to understand how best to make heating in a private home, you need to take into account fuel prices, the price of the equipment itself and its installation, the general ease of use of the heating system, as well as the need for heating itself. It is possible that the best option would be to spend a significant amount at the beginning of construction, and then save on operation, thereby recouping the costs. A prime example of this is alternative energy sources. For example, the cost of installing solar panels, heat pumps or geothermal systems in a private home will be very high, but after installation, the operation of these devices is completely free, which will lead to a quick payback.

Savings lie not only in the correct choice of heating system and low fuel price. You can significantly reduce heating costs by insulating the house itself. It happens that even when building a private house, people think about insulation. Automation is also a good way to save money, as it will maintain a comfortable temperature in the house at minimal cost. If you are going to leave for a long time, then you can set a lower temperature threshold that will not lead to freezing of the house and will allow you to significantly save on heat without wasting it on heating an empty room.

How to properly make heating in a private house with your own hands and where to start

As they say, they dance from the stove. In modern permanent homes, you need to start with a heating boiler. However, the choice of a boiler is not an end in itself; its purchase must be justified by the project, taking into account the area where the private house is built and the characteristics of this house.

Heating system project for a private house

To design a home heating system, a floor plan of the heating supply structure is required, indicating the necessary tolerances, dimensions and other parameters. As a rule, organizations involved in such projects make three-dimensional drawings of home heating. An example of such a project is shown below.

An integrated approach when designing a heating system for a home should take into account a number of important points.

Proper positioning of the building in relation to the communications suitable to it, from the gas pipeline to the electrical network.

The correct location of the building on the cardinal points - so that enough light enters the house through the windows.

Modern windows that prevent heat leakage through the frame. As a rule, these are three-chamber windows with a ventilation valve.

Using the greenhouse effect: even if there are large windows, if there is a heat source in the room (for example, a fireplace), and if this room is on the sunny side, the temperature in it will not fall below 20–22 degrees Celsius even in severe frost. There will also be no need for additional heating devices.

You can also install a fireplace (even if it is electric), which will serve as an autonomous energy source, and it also creates additional comfort.

Not only the external walls of the house must be insulated, but also the internal partitions - ceilings, walls, floors. If the house has several floors, then it is necessary to insulate the upper floors as well.

Upholstered furniture in rooms retains heat perfectly.

If the above-described conditions are implemented in your private home, its owner will be able to feel comfortable and not turn on the heating system for an extra two weeks. You can also turn off the heating system in such a house two weeks earlier without losing the comfortable temperature inside.

A heating project for a home assumes the presence of a heat supply system, which can be of the following types.

Air - this type does not require the installation of batteries and pipes. However, difficulties may arise in maintaining a constant temperature in the house, and the efficiency of such a system will not be stable due to the strong influence of the external environment. Nevertheless, this cottage heating project will be cheaper than all other options.

Electric - such a system could have been much more popular if not for the limited power of the electrical network for many consumers. In general, a system designed to use electricity to heat a home will have an increased cost in both maintenance and use, since the price of electricity is quite high.

Infrared is the most modern type of design, which fully meets all requirements for heating systems. Plus, recently such projects tend to become cheaper, since technologies do not stand still, but are constantly improving.

Pipeline is the most popular system and also the cheapest. To use it, you need to install a mini-boiler room, which will contain sensors, pumps and a heating boiler.

The choice between these designs remains with the owner of a private house. However, in any case, consultation with specialists is required. If you try to solve this issue yourself, without the necessary experience and knowledge, you can make many irreparable mistakes that will lead to increased waste of money and time.

Using an example, you can understand how to correctly calculate heating for a home.

But that's not all: it is also necessary to take into account heat loss through the windows of the house and due to the place where the house is built. To take these factors into account, correction factors are used:

In the southern regions, a coefficient of 0.7–0.9 is used;

In the Moscow region – 1.2–1.5;

In the northern regions – 1.5–2.0.

If you intend to use hot water for household needs, then when planning the heating system it is necessary to increase the boiler power by at least a quarter.

This is not a definitive list of requirements for a heating boiler, but they will allow you to determine the necessary parameters of the heating system.

A complete and final calculation requires knowledge of a special technique, taking into account additional factors and must be performed by an experienced and qualified specialist.

It is better to learn and understand in advance how to install a heating system and use hot water for heating.

About coolant circulation

Usually hot water acts as a coolant. When installing heating in a private house, you need to consider how its circulation will occur - natural or forced.

1. Natural circulation. This method is based on raising hot water and lowering cold water. Thus, there is no need for special devices that move the coolant. In addition, heating based on this type of circulation is autonomous and does not depend on other resources. However, this raises the necessary requirements for installing such a system:

The coolant return pipe must have a smaller cross-section than the supply pipe;

The hot water container should be higher than other elements of the system;

To allow water to flow into the batteries by gravity, the pipes must be positioned at an angle to them;

The boiler should be the lowest located element of the heating system.

When choosing a heating system with natural circulation, you should take into account that such heating is only possible for a not very large room - up to 150 square meters. m. But with this method there will be complete autonomy.

1. Forced circulation. As the name of the method suggests, the movement of coolant in the system is carried out by a pump pumping water through the heating circuit. It has no restrictions on the heated area and installation method.

Types of installation

The most common types of installation are the following.

Single-pipe. With this installation, the coolant moves sequentially through all the batteries, leaving some heat in each of them. As a result, the last radiators in the chain heat up much less than the first, and the temperature in such rooms is lower. The advantages of such a device are that installation is quite simple, and its price will be relatively low, since fewer pipes are required.

Two-pipe. In such a system, water from the central line enters each battery and is returned back. This type of installation is much more efficient than single-pipe installation, but making it is also a more expensive and labor-intensive process.

Installation methods

It will be much easier if you let specialized companies do this work. Despite the significant cost (tens of thousands of rubles), as a result, your home will have a high-quality heating system, designed for your home and completed on a turn-key basis.

In principle, such work can be done independently. It is necessary to take into account a number important factors, watch videos on the Internet, read training materials and instructions in books. With this approach, the cost of installation will consist of purchased materials and equipment.

Heating a private home is a complex system. However, knowing its structure and the requirements that it must meet is necessary to make the optimal decision when choosing a particular system for your own private home. This knowledge will also help to assess the level of required costs.

How to install heating in a private home and avoid 5 common mistakes during installation

It cannot be said that only five mistakes can be made when installing a heating system in a house. But we will talk about the most significant of them, the presence of which will lead to dire consequences. These are the errors.

Error when choosing a heat source.

Incorrect heat generator piping.

Initially incorrect heating system.

Poor quality installation of pipes and fittings.

Errors during installation and connection of heating devices.

A typical mistake is choosing a boiler with insufficient power. As a rule, such a mistake can be made when it is intended not only for heating, but also for preparing water for hot water supply. If you install a boiler with insufficient power, the heat generator will not be able to function normally, and the water will not be at a sufficient temperature either in the radiators or in the taps.

The boiler piping not only performs its direct functions, but is also a safety element. Thus, the pump is installed, as a rule, on the return pipeline in front of the heat generator and on the bypass line. The pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap between the boiler and the safety group, which is strictly prohibited.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).

You can calculate the size of the expansion tank based on the total volume of coolant (usually 10% of it). In an open scheme, the tank is mounted at the top point, in a closed scheme - in front of the pump on the return line. A mud trap is installed between them, and it should be in a horizontal position with the plug pointing down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipes using American connections.

Shortcomings when choosing a heating system for a private home lead to unnecessary financial costs - first you overpay for materials and installation, and then pay to have the system brought into working condition. Most often, mistakes are made when choosing and installing single-pipe systems: they hang more than 5 batteries on one branch, poorly connect sections, and choose the wrong angle and fittings.

How to make heating in a private house - video

What pipes to use for heating in a private house

From the right choice pipes will depend on the tightness of the entire heating system, so their quality cannot be neglected. The pipes are tasked with not only maintaining the selected temperature, but also maintaining the coolant in a closed circuit. Thus, the selected pipes must have high strength characteristics.

Conventionally, pipes can be divided into two large groups:

Plastic-based pipes are in consistently high demand, especially those made of polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. A distinctive feature of the first material is abrasion resistance, the second is resistance to chemicals;

Metal pipes also do not lose popularity. Their advantage is high strength. Pipes made of copper or stainless steel have high corrosion resistance (which cannot be said about other materials in this group).

To carry out heating in a private house, you need to choose one type of pipes yourself. The following pipes are best suited for a private home:

Steel;

• Made of stainless steel;

  Polypropylene;

  Polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);

  Metal-plastic.

Pipelines made of “ferrous” metal have become a thing of the past, as they have low corrosion resistance and are prone to “overgrowing” of the cross-section. In addition, in order to independently install pipes from such a material, you need to have high welding skills to ensure the tightness of the joints. However, some owners of private houses do not refuse such pipes to install their heating system.

Pipes made of copper or stainless steel can be a good choice, but it cannot be called a budget choice. These materials show good resistance to high pressure and temperature. Thus, if you have sufficient finances, such pipes will be an excellent choice. The joining of coolant elements made of copper will be more difficult, since soldering skills will be required, but those made of stainless steel are connected using press or collapsible fittings. If you want to carry out hidden pipe wiring, then it is better to choose the latter option.

Advice. Inside the boiler room, it is better to use metal pipes for piping the boiler and installing lines.

For a budget heating option in a private house, you need to choose polypropylene (PPR) pipes. Of all their types, you should prefer those reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil. Installing such elements is a complex and error-prone task.

PPR pipes are joined by soldering fittings, but their quality cannot be checked. If soldering was carried out at an insufficiently high temperature, the joint will leak, but if there was overheating, the passage channel will be blocked. The worst thing about this is that it is not possible to find out about errors during installation. The results of incorrect installation will only appear during operation. Another disadvantage is the deformation of the material due to heating. To prevent the pipe from getting a saber shape, when soldering it is necessary to secure it into movable supports and provide clearance between the wall and the ends of the pipe.

The easiest independent installation will be when using metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. The price will be higher than that of PPR pipes. However, it will be quite easy for a beginner to make joints on these materials. Also, such pipes are suitable for laying in a screed or wall, but their joints must be made with press fittings; collapsible ones are not allowed.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene materials are used both for open and closed installation, as well as for the installation of heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that this material tends to return to its original state. Externally, such an element will look slightly wavy. Metal-plastic and PE-RT pipes do not have such problems and can be bent at the required angle.

Note. At the moment, a composite material – metal-plastic, combined into different layers – is gaining popularity. The metal base is located inside, which allows you to maintain the desired shape.

How to make water (steam) heating in a private house

For water heating of a private house, various types of heat generators are suitable: stoves, boilers (gas, electric, solid fuel), and you can also use different methods of heating rooms: using radiators or heated floors. You need to choose the option that will be optimal for your home.

At the moment, the most successful heating method would be a gas boiler connected to a central gas pipeline.

If for some reason it is impossible to provide access to the gas main, then you should use an electric boiler. The only question is the possibility of paying for expensive electricity to operate it. In addition, the house will need a three-phase input to connect an electric boiler with a power of more than 4 kW. A device with less power will not be enough for a large house.

If heating with electricity is also not suitable for you, you can consider a solid fuel boiler or a stove with a water circuit as an alternative.

You can also heat your house with water using bottled gas or liquid fuel, a solar power plant or a heat pump, but these are quite rare methods.

There are cases when several different heat generators are connected to the heating system of a house, which work in turn or as needed.

The choice of the type of water heating that you will independently install in your home should be made before purchasing pipes and the necessary equipment. Each of these types has its own characteristics that are worth considering so as not to waste money. If you plan to lay metal pipes, then any boiler will suit them. If you prefer the more common plastic or metal-plastic pipes, you need to know in advance whether they are suitable for the type of heating system you have chosen.

Installation of water heating includes the following steps:

Installation of a boiler (or boilers);

Battery installation;

Pipe layout;

Installation of additional equipment;

Summary of elements in unified system– welding (or soldering) of fittings, connections.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Stage 1. Installation of the boiler

The boiler is installed in a place where it will be easiest to install pipes around the house at minimal cost. If the boiler is gas or electric, then it is worth taking into account the location of the gas pipeline or wiring to the house.

If the boiler is solid fuel or a stove with a water circuit is planned, then the installation location is chosen based on the capabilities of the chimney installation in this location of the house.

The height of the boiler is a significant factor only when planning the natural circulation of the coolant. In this case, you need to position the return inlet to the boiler as low as possible. It is ideal to install a solid fuel boiler in the basement or ground floor of a house. In the case of stove water heating, it is necessary to place the firebox with a heat exchanger at the lowest possible height, as far as the design of the stove allows.

Stage 2. Installation of radiators

Typically, batteries are installed under windows or near the entrance to the house. Depending on the type of radiator, fasteners are chosen for it. The heavier the battery, the more reliable its installation must be.

The location of the battery is strictly horizontal, the minimum distance from the floor is 60 mm, from the window sill - 100 mm. It is advisable to equip each radiator with shut-off valves, an automatic air valve and a regulator. A shut-off valve (faucet) is needed to disconnect the battery from the general heating system if necessary. An air valve will be required to bleed air from the radiator - both when starting the system and during its operation.

Stage 3. Piping and installation of additional equipment

Before wiring, a wiring diagram is drawn up. It uses fittings suitable for a specific type of pipe.

The wiring can be open - the pipes are in plain sight, or hidden - the pipes are removed into grooves in the wall or floor and sealed with plaster or putty.

Stage 4. Welding polypropylene pipes

When soldering PPR pipes, a bead should form at the joint. A uniform passage over the entire diameter of the pipe is required.

To make traces of linear expansions invisible, use a compensator, which is mounted in an inconspicuous place.

Heating of the joined element with a soldering iron lasts no more than 5 seconds at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius.

After joining, the parts must be held for some time in a certain position (as stated in the welding instructions).

Depending on the heating, the coupling shifts towards the side, which leads to the formation of a special mark. The elements must be pressed against each other.

The soldering iron has two nozzles designed for different sides.

If welding is performed on large diameter parts, the heating time can be significantly increased. However, it is important to remember that prolonged heating of parts is contraindicated, as combustion may occur (detected by a brown tint). In addition, it is possible to overlap the internal section.

Along with pipe routing, radiators are connected and additional equipment for the heating system is installed. For closed systems with forced circulation, such equipment will be a circulation pump, a hydraulic storage tank, filters, and a safety unit. For open systems with natural circulation - an expansion tank (mounted at the highest point). If the open system has forced circulation, then the expansion tank is placed in front of the pump and installed as high as possible - in the attic or under the ceiling.

How to make electric heating in a private house

Electric heating happens different types depending on the devices used in them. Such devices are:

Electric convectors;

Oil radiators;

Fan heaters;

Infrared heaters;

Warm floors (electricity based);

Electric boilers.

For self-installation in your own home, any of the above equipment is suitable. Some of these devices only need to be connected to the mains and have their own circuit breaker in the panel. More serious expenses are required, for example, for heated floors or an electric boiler, but such work is quite possible.

Water electric heating of a private house

To install this type of heating in a house, it is necessary to install water heating and install an electric boiler. It can be heating element, induction or electrode. The advantage of heating with electricity is that it does not require heating devices in every room of the house. The electric boiler is mounted in a place convenient for pipe distribution, and pipes and a battery are installed in each room.

If the house initially has a water heating system, then it is enough to buy and connect an electric boiler to it. Its parallel operation together with the previous heating source or instead of it is possible. A small re-equipment of the entire system - and everything is ready.

The disadvantages of such a system for a private home will be the presence of water, which can freeze or leak, and the need to install a pipeline (respectively, batteries, taps, etc.).

Electric heated floors

This method of heating in a private home has recently become increasingly popular. With this option, direct heating is provided by an electric cable, which can be hidden in a concrete screed or laid under the floor surface.

Installing such a heating system yourself requires certain skills and knowledge.

First you need to choose the type of electric heated floor: heating cable, mats, ultra-thin film - each of them has its own connection and installation features.

Regardless of the type of floor, before installing it, you need to insulate its base so that the heat from the electric floor itself goes up and does not dissipate.

To regulate floor heating, special thermostats are installed in each room. They can work both automatically and manually.

Typically, electric heated floors are not installed in all rooms, but under the tiles of a bathroom or toilet, or in the kitchen. Also, this type of heating is rarely used as the main one; more often it is combined with other types of heating systems.

How to make heating in a private house - diagram

Heating systems installed in private houses can be single-pipe or double-pipe.

Single-pipe scheme involves connecting radiators to a single collector, which simultaneously performs the functions of return and supply, passing through all batteries in the form of a closed ring.

In a two-pipe scheme The coolant enters the battery through one pipe and returns through another.

To choose the right heating scheme, it is advisable to contact a specialist. The two-pipe heating scheme is more modern and reliable. Moreover, despite the apparent simplicity and cheapness of the one-pipe circuit, it can be argued that it is both more expensive and more complex than the two-pipe circuit.

Single-pipe schemes

Since in this scheme the water, passing from radiator to radiator, loses more and more heat, it is necessary to increase the power by adding sections in the battery. In addition, the supply manifold must be larger in diameter than the manifold in a two-pipe scheme. Also, in a single-pipe circuit it is difficult to establish automatic control due to the mutual influence of the radiators.

For a country house or small house where there will be no more than five batteries, it is well suited single-pipe horizontal circuit(or, as it is also called - Leningradka). If there are more than five radiators, then the functionality of this circuit will drop to zero, since the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story house. This is a relatively common scheme that has proven its effectiveness.

Two-pipe schemes

At two-pipe wiring The coolant delivers water of the same temperature to all radiators, which makes it possible not to increase the number of sections. Since the lines are divided into return and supply, it is possible to implement automatic control of the batteries using a thermostatic valve.

In such a scheme, the diameter of the pipeline will be smaller, and the scheme itself will be simpler. Two-pipe schemes come in the following varieties:

Dead end: the pipeline is divided into branches in which the coolant moves towards each other;

Associated two-pipe system: in it, the return collector acts as a supply, and the coolant flows in one direction, making a ring out of the circuit;

Collector (radial). This scheme is the most expensive - pipes from the collector go separately to each battery in a hidden way - through the floor.

Two-pipe open system design. When laying large-diameter horizontal lines at a slope of 3–4 mm per 1 m, the system can operate by gravity. This scheme does not require a circulation pump; it is completely energy independent. Both one-pipe and two-pipe systems can work without a pump, the main thing is that there is an opportunity for natural circulation.

Two-pipe circuit of a closed system. For an open heating system, you need to install an expansion tank at the highest point, which will communicate with the atmosphere. This is a solution for gravity networks; it is impossible to do this in any other way. If a membrane-type expansion tank is installed on the return line (not far from the boiler), then the system will be closed, operating under excess pressure. This option is more modern and is used in networks with forced coolant circulation.

Advice. If you own a small one, up to 150 sq. m, house, then the usual two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of coolant is perfect for you. The diameters of the main pipeline will not exceed 25 mm, branches - 20 mm, and connections - 15 mm.

How to install heating in a private house

Single pipe heating system

As we said above, with a one-pipe system, one working pipe is used, looped on the heating boiler. Since the last battery in the cycle will heat up the worst, this problem must be solved. There are several ways out.

Go by increasing the sections in the latest radiators, increasing the heat transfer area.

Install adjustable radiators in the rooms. Such batteries have a regulating device - a thermostatic valve (balancing valve, etc.). With their help, the supply of coolant to the first batteries of the cycle can be regulated. As the flow in them decreases, the flow in the remaining radiators increases.

Install a circulation pump that will provide a slight pressure in the system. In this way, a balance of coolant in each battery will be achieved.

Many professionals consider the last option to be the most optimal, but it is not without its drawbacks. The circulation pump will run on electricity, thereby increasing the cost of operating the heating system and making it dependent on the supply of electricity.

Horizontal single-pipe system (Leningradka)

This heating system has a fairly simple design with the only feature being the laying of the pipe: in a horizontal system, the pipe is mounted with a slope towards the movement of the coolant. In this case, the batteries themselves are installed at the same level and strictly horizontally.

As a rule, the pipeline in this system is laid inside the floor or at its level. If the pipe is laid using the first method, then its heat and waterproofing is necessary.

If this option is provided for a house with two or more floors, then the hot water control will be provided by a valve mounted at the entrance to the first battery of the first floor. By closing this valve, you can increase the pressure in the riser, which supplies coolant to the upper floors. Thus, it is possible to increase the amount of coolant in the batteries of other floors by increasing the heat transfer into them.

Vertical single pipe system

It cannot be said that such a system will be particularly complex or effective. This heating circuit perfectly copes with its functions without the use of a circulation pump. But when laying such a system, the verticality of the risers must be taken into account. To ensure that the effectiveness of this scheme is not lost, it is necessary to use pipes of a larger diameter than in the case of a horizontal system. At the same time, initial costs will increase. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the exact slope of the upper horizontal pipe through which the coolant enters the risers. If this is not done, the functionality of the entire system will be disrupted.

Also, this system does not have the most aesthetic appearance; it is quite difficult to hide, which means that camouflage work for this scheme will cost more.

Two-pipe heating system

Installing such a heating system in your home will require large costs for materials and installation. Accordingly, the cost of the system will be higher. However, a two-pipe system pays off well, as it allows heat to be supplied efficiently and evenly to all areas of the house. If you choose this option, you will be able to regulate the heat in each battery, for which you need to install shut-off valves on them.

For trouble-free operation of this system, it is necessary to install bleed valves on the upper radiators. This is especially important if natural coolant circulation is implemented.

Also, the efficiency of a two-pipe system depends on the method of connecting the batteries - side, diagonal or bottom. Currently, all of the above methods are used, but the diagonal method with an upper connection is considered more correct. It ensures maximum heat transfer.

How much does it cost to install heating in a private house?

Installing a heating system in a house is not an easy task, since heating is a complex engineering system. Its cost will consist of two parameters:

Cost of selected equipment: boiler, batteries;

Prices for consumables and installation work.

Also, to calculate the cost of the heating system, you need to consider the following:

House type;

Its area;

Windows – how many and what size;

Battery type;

Boiler type.

When calculating the cost of heating, you need to take into account not only the price of the boiler, but also the price of the fuel that the boiler consumes. Thus, electric boilers have one of the lowest prices, but the costs and cost of electricity to operate such a boiler make the electric heating system the most expensive. The opposite situation is with gas boilers - with the highest cost of the boiler itself and its installation, the costs and cost of gas make such a system quite attractive in terms of payback.

Another factor influencing the cost of a heating system is the readiness of the home. If the heating installation is carried out during construction, this greatly simplifies the process and allows you to apply the most effective solutions for installing the heating system. At this stage, the easiest way is to calculate the cost of heating and draw up a heating system project, since you can take into account all the technical nuances of the house, all the requirements for the system - from the boiler room to heated floors (the presence of a boiler room is mandatory when using floor-standing boilers).

At the stage of building a house, it is easy to take into account the possibility of integration with other engineering systems, for example with ventilation. Installation supply and exhaust ventilation with heating allows you to consume less electricity, as the dependence of the microclimate on air conditioning systems is reduced. Also, developing a heating system project at the stage of building a house allows for optimal installation necessary equipment, especially hidden, which will allow you to avoid spending money on repairs of finished premises in the future.

If you calculate the cost of a heating system for a finished house that is already in use, you need to understand that the amount on the calculator may differ from the actual costs. To install the necessary equipment, wall chiselling, drilling holes, etc. may be required. It is not always possible to conceal the installation of pipes or other elements of the heating system. After all the work has been completed, there is a very high probability of also carrying out repairs on the premises. Thus, when calculating the cost of a heating system, it is worth taking into account costs that are not directly related to it.

Approximate prices for home heating design

Approximate prices for installing a heating system when contacting a specialized company

Installation of wall-mounted gas boilers

No.	Name of works	Boiler power	Price, rub.)
	Installation of a wall-mounted boiler	No more than 30 kW	15 000
		More than 30 kW	20 000
		No more than 30 kW	20 000
			25 000
		More than 50 kW	35 000
	Installation of a boiler with a built-in tank		5 000
			10 000

Installation of floor-standing gas boilers

No.	Name of works	Boiler power	Price, rub.)
	Boiler installation	No more than 30 kW	25 000
			35 000
		71–100 kW	40 000
		101–150 kW	45 000
		151–200 KW	50 000
		201–300 kW	55 000
		301–400 kW	60 000
		401–500 kW	70 000
	Condensing boiler installation		5 000
	Connecting the DHW line to the heating boiler		10 000

Installation of heating radiators

	Name of works	Unit	Price, rub.)
	Installation of radiators with installation of shut-off and control valves		1500
	Installation of in-floor convectors with installation of shut-off and control valves		2500

Installation of heating pipes

	Name of works	Unit	Price, rub.)
	Laying, placement, fixation of polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 16–50 mm	linear meter	150–400
	Laying, placement, fixation of polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 20–50 mm	linear meter	150–350
	Laying, placement, fixation of metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 25–50 mm	linear meter	250–400
	Laying, placement, fixation of steel pipes with a diameter of 20–50 mm	linear meter	250–450
	Laying, placement, fixation of copper pipes with a diameter of 15–42 mm	linear meter	100–400
	Installation of pipe thermal insulation, internal diameter 18–40 mm	linear meter	20–40

What do you need to remember if you decide to install a heating system in your own home? Regardless of the choice of heating scheme in the house, the quality will be determined not only by the installation performed, but also by the selected pipes and equipment. You should purchase only proven and quality materials from reputable suppliers. The SantekhStandart company successfully sells the necessary equipment for installing a heating system in a private home. The materials and equipment offered by the company are approved by the company’s own specialists and have been certified according to the GOST R system.

In the catalog of the SantekhStandard company you will find everything you need to install a heating system in your home: from metal-plastic and PPR pipes of the required diameters to circulation pumps, batteries, fittings and soldering equipment.

By choosing the SantekhStandard company as a supplier of equipment for your home’s heating system, you do not have to worry about the quality and compatibility of the purchased materials.

Saint Petersburg

st. Sofiyskaya, 72

Sooner or later, country property owners are faced with the question of how to properly install heating in a private home without outside help. However, to do this you will have to delve into all the intricacies of the system. A common coolant for heating residential premises is ordinary water, which reaches the required temperature values ​​after passing through a special boiler. Although innovative heat storage options have recently emerged, they are not currently widely used.

Principle of operation

It is necessary to become familiar with the operation of the water heating system in order to avoid mistakes when installing it yourself. In addition, you need to be able to find faults in extreme cases, because when you call a technician you will have to say goodbye to a considerable sum of money. It should be understood that water system is a closed network that includes heating devices and pipelines.

Components

Before you learn how to make heating in a private house yourself, in any case, you need to familiarize yourself with the entire structure. Such systems usually include a standard set of equipment. Heating adjustment is usually carried out by changing the temperature of the coolant.

However, when installing control taps, it becomes possible to change the microclimate in different rooms.

• Heating point, which in most cases is a whole complex of devices located in special rooms. They control consumption modes, adjust coolant parameters, and the like.
• Pipelines used to transfer heated liquid to heating devices. Their wiring can be done according to various schemes. These elements are installed openly or removed under the finishing coating.
• Convectors and required to transfer heat to the room in which they are located. The first of them create a more powerful flow of rising air, but there are certain difficulties in cleaning. As for radiators, a significant part of their heating occurs due to thermal radiation.
• Thermostats very often began to be used in heating systems. They consist of a thermostatic head and a valve. When the temperature in the room drops below the configured limit, the gas pressure decreases. In this regard, the opening of the flow section occurs.

Note! Working batteries significantly reduce the level of air humidity, and this figure can drop to 20-25 percent. Therefore, it is recommended to use humidifiers or install an aquarium.

Fluid circulation options

In fact, the movement of water inside pipelines can be natural or forced. However, in each of them the coolant moves in a circle, reaching a certain temperature in the boiler.

1. Forced circulation is created using a special pump, the power of which can vary. It is with its help that the liquid is set in motion. With this method, it is quite possible to regulate the temperature of individual radiators.

1. Natural circulation is ensured without special devices, and movement occurs due to the difference between the densities of cooled and heated water. In this case, there must be a sufficient diameter of the vertical risers to create an incentive force.

Addition! The first option in the modern world has begun to be used much more often. The only drawback is the dependence of the heating system on the electrical network.

Selecting the right equipment

With the development of technology, modern heat generation devices have become distinguished by high efficiency and automatic control. They also make it possible to reduce energy consumption to some extent and rationally use resources.

Boiler information

These devices are closed tanks where the coolant is heated to the required levels. In addition, there are double-circuit analogues, which at the same time supply the home with hot water.

With this option, there is no need to purchase additional equipment, which has a positive effect on the family budget.

• are used where there is a backbone network of this energy source. During operation, natural gas is burned, the price of which is quite low. As for the installation location, such products can be located on the floor or on the side plane of the room.
• Solid fuel boilers– special structures made of cast iron or steel. Their task is to generate thermal energy by burning solid materials. As a rule, firewood, fuel pellets, peat, coal and so on are used as raw materials.
• Liquid fuel analogues consist of an insulated body containing a combustion chamber with a network of branched channels. Diesel fuel devices can be equipped with a special heat exchanger to increase efficiency.
• Electric boilers have many advantages, but from an economic point of view they are considered not very profitable, since electricity is used as a feedstock.
• Combined installations capable of operating on several types of fuel. Thus, it is possible to save depending on seasonal phenomena or time of day. The transition to another operating option is carried out by replacing the burner or by regular switching.

Attention! The installation of combined structures is practically no different from the installation of conventional devices. Combined models do not require an additional chimney.

Pipe selection

The tightness of the heating system will depend on them, so serious requirements are placed on quality. Their task is not only to maintain temperature conditions. The coolant should not go beyond the closed circuit, which can only be ensured by products with good strength characteristics.

Two broad product groups can be distinguished.

1. Products based on plastics have recently been in incredible demand. This is especially true for polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. The first of them is characterized by increased resistance to abrasion, and the second is able to successfully withstand chemicals.
2. Metal pipes have sufficient mechanical strength, so they continue to be a good option. However, they have relatively low corrosion resistance. Although this cannot be said about stainless steel and copper products.

Note! Recently, a composite material has been actively used - metal-plastic, which combines different layers. As a rule, the metal base is located inside, ensuring that the shape is maintained.

Heat storage devices

Such devices include convective-radiation structures, including separate sections with channels inside. Heating is carried out using radiation or convection. Most people purchase products based primarily on aesthetic preferences, but this approach is not correct.

• Sectional radiators consist of sections produced using high pressure casting. They are connected to each other by threaded elements. Sealing is carried out using gaskets made of various materials.
• Panel structures are rectangular panels consisting of steel sheets welded together. The height and width of products may vary significantly.
• Tubular devices are considered the most expensive option. First of all, they are designed for a pressure of 10-15 atmospheres. There is virtually no chance of leaks due to welded joints.
• Plate heat exchangers provide heating using special elements in the form of steel rectangles. Typically their thickness ranges from 0.4 to 1 millimeter.

Addition! As for the materials used in production, bimetallic products are widely used, which differ from aluminum analogues in the presence of steel inserts.

Execution of work

After familiarizing yourself with the constituent elements and their types, it’s time to learn how to make heating in country house or in any other home. To carry out installation you will need a simple set of tools that are not so difficult to operate. However, when working with polypropylene pipes you will also need a welding machine.

Boiler installation

This section discusses the installation of a wall-mounted gas appliance. This is a simpler option. First of all, you should decide on the location, and all requirements must be met. They are usually in the project or in the passport for the heating device.

1. First of all, a special strip is attached to the side surface, on which the boiler will be fixed. It is always included in the equipment set. Anchors are used during work.
2. Next, the boiler itself is suspended and connected to the chimney. It is usually made of sheet steel. Training videos often reflect these points.
3. Afterwards, you can install the supply pipeline, which is secured using polypropylene couplings. The other side is soldered.

Important! Concerning gas pipe, then it is connected to the heating device by gas service specialists. Therefore, it will not be possible to carry out this event on our own.

Installation of heating radiators

In addition to the heating devices themselves, you will need a certain set of parts: brackets and dowels, four plugs, plugs and a Mayevsky valve, which is a device for releasing air.

1. In the side of the room, marks are made with a pencil where the brackets will be located. Marking is carried out by level.
2. Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the wall, which primarily depends on the dowel used.
3. Next, the necessary elements are connected to the battery. The part is unscrewed from the tap, and the winding is wound onto the thread. A union nut is already put on it and screwed into the plug. The taps are also screwed on.
4. Now you should solder the branch pipes with one edge to the tee, and the other to the radiator valve.
5. After connecting all the elements, the device is fixed.

Attention! When marking, it is necessary to take into account the height of the product from the window sill to the floor. In addition, it must be taken into account that the brackets must be installed in such a way that they are located between the sections.

Welding polypropylene pipes

• During the soldering process, a edge should be formed at the joints of the parts. IN mandatory An even passage around the entire circumference is required.
• To prevent traces of linear expansions from being visible, a compensator is used, located in an inconspicuous place.
• Heating of the elements with a soldering iron takes no more than five seconds. The temperature on the equipment is set to 270 degrees.
• After connecting the individual parts, you should hold the parts in a certain position for some time, as any welding instruction tells.
• Depending on the heating, the coupling moves towards the side, leaving a special mark. The elements need to be pressed together.
• After joining, the two parts are held for about thirty seconds to harden the joint.
• The soldering iron itself has two nozzles, each of which is designed for different sides.
• Heating time can increase significantly when welding large diameter products.